Adapter for trailer's lights on
Discussion
https://voltage-converter-transformers.com/collect...
Use something like one of the above transformer/rectifier units, there are many @ Google
Wire a 24 Volt Trailer 13 Pin Suzy to the 24 Volt Output from the likes of the above unit. When wiring the Suzy only connect up the lighting circuits that you want to be illuminated when switching on the Power Converter
For any 12 Volt systems you would need to purchase a 240 Volts to 12 Volts Power Converter and use 1 x 12 Volt battery on a trolley
There you go, the jobs a goodun
Other option is to fit 1 or 2 x 12 Volt batteries in a box and wire them to get the 12 or 24 Volts, wire a Suzy to the battery/batteries, put the box on a trolley, you would then have a portable 12 Volts/24 Volts supply, leave batteries charging with a 12 Volt or 24 Volt battery charger when connected to trailer
First option is the best
I like your Trailers, very nice
Use something like one of the above transformer/rectifier units, there are many @ Google
Wire a 24 Volt Trailer 13 Pin Suzy to the 24 Volt Output from the likes of the above unit. When wiring the Suzy only connect up the lighting circuits that you want to be illuminated when switching on the Power Converter
For any 12 Volt systems you would need to purchase a 240 Volts to 12 Volts Power Converter and use 1 x 12 Volt battery on a trolley
There you go, the jobs a goodun
Other option is to fit 1 or 2 x 12 Volt batteries in a box and wire them to get the 12 or 24 Volts, wire a Suzy to the battery/batteries, put the box on a trolley, you would then have a portable 12 Volts/24 Volts supply, leave batteries charging with a 12 Volt or 24 Volt battery charger when connected to trailer
First option is the best
I like your Trailers, very nice
Edited by Penelope Stoppedit on Monday 23 October 13:49
Add up the Wattage of all the bulbs you want to be powered, divide by twelve and that will tell you the approximate average current. I suggest you design the supply to support double that since there will be a current spike when you power them on, and you want some margin in reserve.
If you're using ordinary filament bulbs you don't need a well regulated supply and can use just about any power supply with the right current and voltage rating. An ordinary cheap car battery charger would probably do the job, and be useful in its own right if you ever need to charge a battery. Just make sure you don't get a fancy voltage-sensing battery conditioning type of thing, you just want a dumb charger. If you use a battery charger that ought to have a fuse on the lower voltage side; if you use a different power supply, you may need to add your own fuse. Are the 240V supply, wire to the trailer and the trailer itself all going to be inside in a secure location? If not, you will need to consider what protection this installation is going to need against weather damage, mechanical damage or little fingers fiddling with it. If the 240V supply isn't already RCD protected, I'd want to have RCD protection in the 240V supply just as a precaution. If this is going to be unattended, best make that a latching/passive RCD. If the trailer already has a trailer lighting connector I'd suggest getting a matching trailing socket for the 'car' side of that connection, and use a small junction box to connect the wires from that to the incoming cable from your power supply.
If you're using ordinary filament bulbs you don't need a well regulated supply and can use just about any power supply with the right current and voltage rating. An ordinary cheap car battery charger would probably do the job, and be useful in its own right if you ever need to charge a battery. Just make sure you don't get a fancy voltage-sensing battery conditioning type of thing, you just want a dumb charger. If you use a battery charger that ought to have a fuse on the lower voltage side; if you use a different power supply, you may need to add your own fuse. Are the 240V supply, wire to the trailer and the trailer itself all going to be inside in a secure location? If not, you will need to consider what protection this installation is going to need against weather damage, mechanical damage or little fingers fiddling with it. If the 240V supply isn't already RCD protected, I'd want to have RCD protection in the 240V supply just as a precaution. If this is going to be unattended, best make that a latching/passive RCD. If the trailer already has a trailer lighting connector I'd suggest getting a matching trailing socket for the 'car' side of that connection, and use a small junction box to connect the wires from that to the incoming cable from your power supply.
I shouldn't have posted anything here apart from - Have you checked your public liability insurance for having 240 Volts near to your trailers
If you are ok to do this I have included a waterproof method of my above second solution
Is there room to fit everything in the trailer?
If you are ok to do this I have included a waterproof method of my above second solution
Is there room to fit everything in the trailer?
Edited by Penelope Stoppedit on Monday 23 October 16:16
Four days would be a stretch, I agree.
I'm envisaging a indoor trade stand with power available and the public having limited access. From the electrical point of what what you're proposing would be quite simple and anybody with basic electrical skills ought to be able to wire this up safely. I assume you will hide the wiring away to avoid trip hazards and so on. You'll still need to consider the public liability implications though.
I'm envisaging a indoor trade stand with power available and the public having limited access. From the electrical point of what what you're proposing would be quite simple and anybody with basic electrical skills ought to be able to wire this up safely. I assume you will hide the wiring away to avoid trip hazards and so on. You'll still need to consider the public liability implications though.
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