Rubber Fuel hose leak

[millsri]

Hi, only had my chimaera 400 a few months but unfortunately I have a problem to fix, and wondered if anyone has had the same problem and can offer any advice. Rubber fuel hose above the engine block has perished and is leaking petrol.
Noticed this when driving tonight as I could smell srong petrol fumes. Although this doesnt seem to be a difficult job does anyone know where I can get a new hose from and if they have had anything similar happen.

Wan to get it fixed this weekend so if anyone can recommed any tvr parts dealers in kent, near sidcup would be grateful so i can fix on saturday asap.

Thanks

[dadamsv8]

Try Beadles Range Rover dealer at Sidcup as the engine is basically a Range Rover with some TVR tweaking they should stock the part

[Ribol]

Not sure how big a leak you have but bear in mind it may still be pressurised.

[seasider]

Not done the job myself but i know a man who has... I hope you have small hands & skinny arms

>> Edited by seasider on Wednesday 13th April 07:23

[millsri]

cheers for the response, the hose is being sent to me, and after looking last night i know what you mean about small hands and skinny arms!!

One quick questions, why do you mention it being pressurised, would it help if i undid the petrol filler cap and then removed the hose, surely the pressure wouldnt be that great when removing this, especially if there is a leak.

Thanks once again.

[K4TRV]

millsri said:

cheers for the response, the hose is being sent to me, and after looking last night i know what you mean about small hands and skinny arms!! One quick questions, why do you mention it being pressurised, would it help if i undid the petrol filler cap and then removed the hose, surely the pressure wouldnt be that great when removing this, especially if there is a leak. Thanks once again.

Check in the bible.

The method is to have the imobiliser "on" and use the starter for a few seconds (this will turn the engine over), the fuel pressure will then go to nearly zero as the fuel pump is off.

Alternatively, you can also trip the inertia switch (above the glove compartment above the passengers knees - 2-phillips screws will drop the flap.). Then again turn the engine over.

Removing the filler cap has absolutely no impact on the pressurised fuel rail feeding the injectors. Just cover the joint as you remove it with a very large cloth - DONT SMOKE - DONT HAVE ANYTHING HOT NEAR YOU. If the engine has not run for a few days/weeks, then you can probably disconnect as the pressure may have dropped sufficently to almost ignore. Just take care as you are dealing with potentially up to 40 psi of 97/99 Octane fuel.

Have fun!!

Trev McM

[IPAddis]

K4TRV said:

Check in the bible. The method is to have the imobiliser "on" and use the starter for a few seconds (this will turn the engine over), the fuel pressure will then go to nearly zero as the fuel pump is off.

Err, the starter won't fire with the standard fit imobiliser on. Not on mine anyway.

Easiest way to depressurise is to remove the spade terminal from the fuel pump (behind near side rear wheel) and start the car. Not entirely ideal for the engine but it'll be fine just doing it once.

Check the other fuel pipe (return) as it can also perish.

Ian A.

[spend]

Isnt it easier to pull the fuse or relay on the ECU harness in the footwell? Or am I missing the point? Sorry if I spoilt a wind up :-(

Dave

[K4TRV]

IPAddis said:

K4TRV said: Check in the bible. The method is to have the imobiliser "on" and use the starter for a few seconds (this will turn the engine over), the fuel pressure will then go to nearly zero as the fuel pump is off. Err, the starter won't fire with the standard fit imobiliser on. Not on mine anyway. Ian A.

Good point, but mine just churns the engine over with immobliser on (alarmed). I've an early model which isolates pump, ignition and fuel guage - believe this is standard method of immobilisation.

Yes, you can also grovel in the rear LHS wheel arch and remove the spade connector - same principle, but harder/dirtier to locate.

Would advocate the Inertia Switch method if immobliser does isolate solenoid. Not so dirty/akward.


Trev McM



>> Edited by K4TRV on Thursday 14th April 15:32

[IPAddis]

K4TRV said:

Good point, but mine just churns the engine over with immobliser on (alarmed). I've an early model which isolates pump, ignition and fuel guage - believe this is standard method of immobilisation.

Foxguard alarm/immob? Mine's a standard Meta (1996) and it definately won't turn over when immobilised.

Ian A.