Which bike stand?
Discussion
Those Park Tool stands look good. Their gear is usually a cut above - in both quality and price!
I have just got a 40 quid Halfords special bike stand because I am too tight to pay over 100 quid for a pukka one. I am pleasantly surprised by it - stable when up, stores away nicely, holds the bike securely in any position you like.
The obvious cost saving is the tube clamp head bit. A big lump of plastic instead of a svelte shiny metal forging. But it isn't too flimsy and works fine. You pays your money...
I have just got a 40 quid Halfords special bike stand because I am too tight to pay over 100 quid for a pukka one. I am pleasantly surprised by it - stable when up, stores away nicely, holds the bike securely in any position you like.
The obvious cost saving is the tube clamp head bit. A big lump of plastic instead of a svelte shiny metal forging. But it isn't too flimsy and works fine. You pays your money...
My dad has the park one with the blue clamp which I borrow from time to time, very sturdy bit of kit, the clamp head can be rotated to grip whatever bit of bike suits best. Have had our full sus trail bikes on it with no issues. A second pair of hands is useful while your mounting the bike.
There is an alternative design, I was given a tacx spider so I've got used to that kind and I do like it.
With this type there is a plinth for the bottom bracket and a qr for your front or rear dropouts depending on which end of the bike you're working on. totally safe for carbon frames as there's no tube clamping going on. Probably good for a heavier bike too with the way it is supported.
This is the usual position
and here is is clamping the rear so you can work on the headset etc.
Tacx spiders are quite expensive, but Wiggle do one by elite in this format for £85 http://www.wiggle.co.uk/elite-race-workstand/
One thing to keep in mind, they are a bit of a pain if you have mudguards.
With this type there is a plinth for the bottom bracket and a qr for your front or rear dropouts depending on which end of the bike you're working on. totally safe for carbon frames as there's no tube clamping going on. Probably good for a heavier bike too with the way it is supported.
This is the usual position
and here is is clamping the rear so you can work on the headset etc.
Tacx spiders are quite expensive, but Wiggle do one by elite in this format for £85 http://www.wiggle.co.uk/elite-race-workstand/
One thing to keep in mind, they are a bit of a pain if you have mudguards.
I've got the PCS-9 and it's great, the only difference really is the quick release clamp - maybe useful with a heavier E-Bike, but it's not a game changer if you're not working day in, day out with it in a bike shop.
23Kgs is heavy, but I wouldn't worry about it on the Park stand, my old Cove DH bike was 20ish-Kgs as along as you can lift the sucker up there, it'll hold. they're made of steel and whilst 23Kgs is heavy for a bike, it's only the weight of a 5 year old - they're a lot stronger than your average B&Q Kids Swing.
23Kgs is heavy, but I wouldn't worry about it on the Park stand, my old Cove DH bike was 20ish-Kgs as along as you can lift the sucker up there, it'll hold. they're made of steel and whilst 23Kgs is heavy for a bike, it's only the weight of a 5 year old - they're a lot stronger than your average B&Q Kids Swing.
LeadFarmer said:
and are they all designed to grip the seat post rather than the cross bar?
Oh, the head rotates and they'll clamp wherever you want them too - just bear in mind you shouldn't clamp on the shaft of a dropper post unless it's fully extended and even then you need to make sure the clamping area is clean.If you clamp the top tube just don't be tempted to 'make sure it's really tight'. the Handle isn't too long and the clamps are rubber coated, but still a heavily hydro-formed alu tube or carbon tube could be crushed if you're a complete wally with it.
PCS9 and 10 are rated for 36kg, although as with any stand you want to make sure the centre of gravity is somewhere inside the legs.
I have a similar one with the rotating jaws and find for most jobs it's easier (and more stable) to open the jaws, rest the top tube on them and gently wind them closed. You'd have to be an ape to come anywhere near damaging a carbon frame like that.
I have a similar one with the rotating jaws and find for most jobs it's easier (and more stable) to open the jaws, rest the top tube on them and gently wind them closed. You'd have to be an ape to come anywhere near damaging a carbon frame like that.
I have the X Tools one -
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-...
I paid full price for it last year, so a good deal now.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-...
I paid full price for it last year, so a good deal now.
MDMA . said:
I have the X Tools one -
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-...
I paid full price for it last year, so a good deal now.
That looks great for the price, and it has indexed locking clamp. Do you reckon it would be ok with my 23kg ebike?http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-...
I paid full price for it last year, so a good deal now.
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