Outriggers

[motul1974]

Hi folks,

In the next month or so I'm planning on start my body off refurb as well as engine upgrades, Inc gems.
I'm expecting the chassis to be in fairly good condition considering it's previous pampered life, but being as I enjoy the car in all weather's, I'm thinking it's prudent to protect it.

My question is; if in the event of needing new outriggers, am I right in saying there is someone out there offering 3mm thick steel as opposed to the 1.5 or 1.6 that's from the factory? RT Racing state they work to OE specs, but if that's the case I'm probably better off just repairing my own if they need it, assuming their in good enough condition that is.
Seems like a stronger tube could be of benefit, especially if I as to add a roll hoop later on.

[motul1974]

...guessing nobody as heard of thicker steel outriggers then??

[QBee]

The standard riggers last 15 years minimum, so i guess that's why you haven't had a reply.

[motul1974]

That's ok, just thought I'd heard about thicker gauge...was thinking about strength. Cheers anyway.

[mk1fan]

A few of the TVR specialists use thicker gauge steel as part of their refurb. Some even use 'roll cage' spec stuff that is drawn not seam welded.

All of it is readily available so speak to your steel supplier.

One reason not to use thicker gauged steel is that if you're doing a butt joint between two tubes then you can use an inner sleeve to strengthen and align the join more easily if the two tubes are the same ID. If they differ then you need to make up a stepped sleeve.

Personally, I'd use thicker gauge and roll cage tubing.

[QBee]

Are you considering making up some side impact bars while you have spare tube? I have often wondered (especially when on the race track) if there is space somewhere in the doors to add some protection, but cannot readily see where it would go or how you would fix it in place.

[motul1974]

I'm quietly confident that the chassis us in reasonable order. I had planned to send it RT RACING for powder coating, but given the costs and the difficulty in repairing it , I've decided to use my local land rover lads to help me with the body off....use their welding skills..and coat the chassis in Buzzweld. It seemed the natural time to strengthen where possible with the view of maybe adding a roll hope later, seat mounting, tiny improvement in crash protection maybe and even stiffening.

I hadn't contemplated SIP in the doors mind....i think that's beyond what I'm trying to achieve though.

[Classic Chim]

The only way a door bar is going to be effective is if it’s connected to a full roll cage.
Dangerous Derek has something akin to what I’m saying as in his door bar is on the inside of the car and removable for access. I reckon he did it for ridgitity though, nowt to do with safety

[mk1fan]

billynobrakes 'new' Wedge has a hybrid cage fitted that has a rear roll bar, side bars just above the door sill and and hoop over the front (under the dash).

[motul1974]

I met a chap out the Growl this year who was running a twin turbo Chevy engine in his, he'd made a cage that had diagonal across the entrance of the door. Had set them quite low for access but picking up the front of the outrigger...looked good!

[LongBaz]

Don't know if you can see this. I used thicker steel, Chrome Alloy if IRC and had the ends turned down for 'snug' fit.

[motul1974]

I can see that, it looks well done. Did you do the work yourself?

I was thinking about thick gauged T45 steel. It apparently has very high strength, lower weight as well being very suitable to impact absorption.

[LongBaz]

A fabricator friend of mine did all the work for less than half the cost of the norm.

[LongBaz]

[QBee]

Pleased to see you had taken the opportunity to put seat fixings into the outriggers, Barrie.
It's a bit of a shocker when one realises that the driver's seat is only secured by bolts through the fibreglass.