Rust treatment
Author
Discussion

bozonoz

Original Poster:

32 posts

119 months

Sunday 12th November 2017
quotequote all
Hi all,

Looking to make my car last forever. I had the same model before, and it had much worse rust in the sill and trailing arm mount area. I wirebrushed as much as I could and coated it in Waxoyl. About a year later, the rust had accelerated and I had a hole in the sill. A few people told me Waxoyl had trapped moisture and made it rust quicker.

This is how my "new" car looks:



What should I do? Keep in mind I can wire brush it but probably can't get every last bit of it. I want to apply a rust converter/stabiliser and then paint it with some sealant. Then I will use cavity wax in all the sills and other cavities.

Looking for recommendations, thanks.

helix402

7,913 posts

206 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Throw all your Waxoil in the bin and try Bilt Hamber products.

The Dangerous Elk

4,642 posts

101 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
helix402 said:
Throw all your Waxoil in the bin and try Bilt Hamber products.
This.

I kept my Waxoil for dipping bolts into to protect threads long term....

bozonoz

Original Poster:

32 posts

119 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
The waxoyl went in the bin along with my old car lol.

I'm looking at the Bilt Hamber range now, I've used the car washing products before - didn't realise they did this type of thing too. Thanks!

It's a bit of a confusing range though, not sure which rust converter to use, and whether to coat it with the Epoxy Mastic or the wax afterward.

ShampooEfficient

4,278 posts

235 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
Re Deox-C - If it will fit in a bowl/ tub/ bucket/ old bathtub, use the powder. If you're not Geoff Capes and can't lift your car or part into the tub, brush the gel on. I get decent results wrapping it in clingfilm when leaving the gel on.

bozonoz

Original Poster:

32 posts

119 months

Monday 13th November 2017
quotequote all
OK cool, I will try wrapping in cling film. What did you coat it with after the rust remover had done its thing?

alabbasi

3,133 posts

111 months

Tuesday 14th November 2017
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Waxoyl will wash away on external facing metal. You'll need to paint it. POR15 is a pretty decent product for chassis parts as it sets up like concrete, but is prone to UV damage (which is not a problem for bits under your car).
It's expensive however. You can also use an oil based enamel which will work pretty well for a while. Rustoleaum is a good brand if it's available in the UK. They have a oil based 'rusty metal primer' that should seal it well.
.

Wait Here Until Green Light Shows

16,697 posts

224 months

Tuesday 14th November 2017
quotequote all
ACF-50 will stop any further rust, but you will need to top it up once a month.
A permanent solution would be to completely remove any rust and use a couple of coats of POR 15 with a further couple of normal black paint coats.

Waxoyl does work, but you have to apply it in very warm weather - ideally the hottest day of the year when temps are nearly 30 degrees so that it really soaks in.

bozonoz

Original Poster:

32 posts

119 months

Wednesday 15th November 2017
quotequote all
I'm not using Waxoyl, it just accelerated rust on my last car from what I could tell. Perhaps I used it wrong but I'm looking for something better.

The POR15 set up seems good, very clear process.

1x Cleaner/degreaser
1x Rust remover
1x Long term coating

I think I will go for this method in the summer when its warm, its very difficult to do at this time of year, it seems as though the undercarriage is just always damp so it would be very difficult to clean and rinse it.

I will set aside a week in the summer to clean and degrease it, park it up in the garage with a dehumidifer and also use a heat gun before applying the POR15 long term coating.

The Dangerous Elk

4,642 posts

101 months

Wednesday 15th November 2017
quotequote all
A dry garage and a fan blowing under it for a day or so will dry it off no bother in the winter, you just need airflow.

Wait Here Until Green Light Shows

16,697 posts

224 months

Thursday 16th November 2017
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POR15 must be overcoated otherwise daylight will make it just peel off.

alabbasi

3,133 posts

111 months

Thursday 16th November 2017
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Wait Here Until Green Light Shows said:
POR15 must be overcoated otherwise daylight will make it just peel off.
If the trailing arms see daylight, he's probably got bigger problems to deal with smile

bozonoz

Original Poster:

32 posts

119 months

Thursday 16th November 2017
quotequote all
LOL.

It's mostly the sill area and where the trailing arm mounts to that I am concerned about.

Trailing arm can be replaced quite easily with a used one, can tidy it up off the car much easier too.

Found pics of the old car:

Waxoy'd sills and arches l when I got it




About a year later:



Was patched up and then 3-4 years later rear ended really badly and written off. You can see where the chassis got bent and the spring mounting perch, but also see how to waxoyl lasted:


Cracked the arch: