Lucas distributor
Discussion
Hi, I have a Lucas 35DM8 Distributor that would have used the remote mounted module DAB108 that sat under the coil .
Internally the distributor looks identical to the35DLM8 that has the Lucas DAB118 module attached to the side of the distributor boddy. Can be remotely mounted as TVR do on there Chimaera
My question is will the DAB118 module work with the 35DM8 distributor.
Obviously would need to be remote mounted and have one off lead made to couple to the distributor.
My reason for asking is the DAB118 module is £peanuts compared to the DAB 108. Cheers George
Internally the distributor looks identical to the35DLM8 that has the Lucas DAB118 module attached to the side of the distributor boddy. Can be remotely mounted as TVR do on there Chimaera
My question is will the DAB118 module work with the 35DM8 distributor.
Obviously would need to be remote mounted and have one off lead made to couple to the distributor.
My reason for asking is the DAB118 module is £peanuts compared to the DAB 108. Cheers George
This is how some people make a mess of the job http://www.v8wizard.com/uploaded_files/Power-amp.p...
Are the RPI amp- love it to bits- you spend a lot of money to put a semiconductor switch on top of a semiconductor switch for no gain what so ever. I bench tested the Lucas unit against the RPI unit for spark duration and peak voltage, and the RPI unit was slightly poorer in terms of peak voltage as it had a shorter dwell, but the spark duration was longer. It makes b*gger all difference to the ignition burn anyway once its started.
Edited by blitzracing on Thursday 16th November 13:40
Georgie58 said:
many thanks for your reply, did you make up your own plugs to go on the cable between the dizzy and module.
The plug i really need is the 2pin to go into the back of the module, any ideas where i could purchase one.
A couple of small spades will do the job. Id drop some heat shrink tube over the connections and then a dollop of hot glue to hold the two spades at the correct width.The plug i really need is the 2pin to go into the back of the module, any ideas where i could purchase one.
The signal coming out of the trigger head is AC, so if you get the polarity around the wrong way, it alters the timing fractionally, as the amp triggers on the wrong phase of the ac signal, but that's its at its worse, you wont do any damage. Id do a timing check with a strobe to start with before you change the wiring, then do it again afterwards, and if its moved, swapped the connectors around.
I posted the above link to show what lengths people will go to in messing a job up with rubbish terminals
I have had a idea for making a good connection to the distributor but am not sure of the measurements, there is every chance this will work
Check if a 2 Pin Male Timer Plug will fit the distributor and if it does, make/shape a bracket that will bolt to the original distributor amplifier mounting holes and use it to keep the plug in place
If the above doesn,t work - Slowly/slowly drill/grind out the heatsink of a used/faulty amplifier until you have access to the base of its distributor connector pins and cut any bus bars or cables off those pins, you now have a dummy amplifier that can be used as a plug, solder cables to the base of the pins and seal them with a little candle wax followed by epoxy filler, drill out the amplifier wherever suits you for the cable to exit the amplifier and once again epoxy filler around it. You can bolt the dummy amplifier onto the distributor using it as a plug, a good plug that can't disconnect
I have had a idea for making a good connection to the distributor but am not sure of the measurements, there is every chance this will work
Check if a 2 Pin Male Timer Plug will fit the distributor and if it does, make/shape a bracket that will bolt to the original distributor amplifier mounting holes and use it to keep the plug in place
If the above doesn,t work - Slowly/slowly drill/grind out the heatsink of a used/faulty amplifier until you have access to the base of its distributor connector pins and cut any bus bars or cables off those pins, you now have a dummy amplifier that can be used as a plug, solder cables to the base of the pins and seal them with a little candle wax followed by epoxy filler, drill out the amplifier wherever suits you for the cable to exit the amplifier and once again epoxy filler around it. You can bolt the dummy amplifier onto the distributor using it as a plug, a good plug that can't disconnect
Edited by Penelope Stoppedit on Thursday 16th November 21:18
Georgie58 said:
Great info thanks very much for your help. George
No problem, glad to possibly be of helpI forgot to mention that if a male timer fits, you will be able to use a female timer plug at the other end of the cable that connects to the amplifier, bear in mind that some cutting away of the plug mouldings may be needed. Silicone seal where water may get in at both ends
blitzracing said:
I thought the dizzy had fly leads all ready and all we are doing is using a dizzy mounted amp in place of the remote one as its lower cost?
Mmmm you had me reading the 1st post again and I think you are half right and I am half wrongThe OP reads - Hi, I have a Lucas 35DM8 Distributor that would have used the remote mounted module DAB108 that sat under the coil
From that I have presumed that Georgie58 doesn't have the lead. I have suggested how a bracket or dummy amplifier could be fastened to the distributor and due to your post have spotted my misunderstanding - My bracket/dummy amplifier wont fasten to the distributor as there is nothing there to fasten to.
Hopefully timer plugs will still overcome having to mess the wiring job up but will need Silicone to hold them in place
Your above method will work if timer plugs can't be adapted, what could be bettered is the terminal type, you mentioned heat-shrinking over those red crush-on connectors, a better job can be made by using terminals of the folding crimp type and heat-shrinking over them before silicone sealing them in
Well spotted blitz
Just to confirm my dizzy has 2 wires coming out the side and coupling to these is no problem. After a bit of researching what I need is the lead from a tvr Chimaera that couples to the remote mounted module, I could then cut the dizzy end off and put a plug on to suit my dizzy. Cheers for the input guys at least I know how to make up something to get me going.
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