braided brake hoses

[Plotloss]

Stainless.

[rooster]

Looking to put some on the chim but I see you can get both zinc or stainless steel, any thoughts on which are best?

[rooster]

Plotloss said:

Stainless.

can you expand on that!

[victormeldrew]

Zinc is just a plating and may rub off, exposing the metal underneath to possible corrosion. Stainless is what it is, braided stainless steel. It won't rust.

EIther way though you will appreciate the sharper feel of your brakes!

[torquemada]

Probably a dumb question, but why do braided hoses affect the brake feel?

[jonnyb]

Because when you press the pedal the rubber hose will expand with the pressure and make the brakes feel spongy. With braided hoses this does not happen and the hose can take alot more pressure.

[2Munkys]

I think you'll find that the braiding is always of a form of stainless steel (though there are aramids in use). The zinc/stainless refers to the end fittings where you'll find zinc plated steel, stainless steel or anodised aluminium. For mid cost and durability on a brake system, the SS is your best option.

A change in feel comes from the fact that the hoses you refer to are less prone to balooning under high pressure and age. Some people find them a little 'wooden' through the pedal though.

[stringbag]

Is this an easy DIY job?
(need a bleed thingy, obviously)

Are these the fellas?

www.needforspeed.co.uk/pages/sbv_pl.asp?Vehicle=TVGRI01&PartType=LIN07

Karl

[rooster]

stringbag said:

Is this an easy DIY job? (need a bleed thingy, obviously) Are these the fellas? www.needforspeed.co.uk/pages/sbv_pl.asp?Vehicle=TVGRI01&PartType=LIN07 Karl

thats them, I hope it isn't to hard but I do have the bible to guide me (and my husband!)

[victormeldrew]

2Munkys said:

I think you'll find that the braiding is always of a form of stainless steel (though there are aramids in use). The zinc/stainless refers to the end fittings where you'll find zinc plated steel, stainless steel or anodised aluminium. For mid cost and durability on a brake system, the SS is your best option. A change in feel comes from the fact that the hoses you refer to are less prone to balooning under high pressure and age. Some people find them a little 'wooden' through the pedal though.

Yes, obviously, what was I thinking! The one swith spunky red and blue ends being the anodised aluminium option - classic Goodridge.

[meeko]

I replaced my rubber hoses and was straightforward. Unscrew the copper pipe from the brake hose, then unscrew the clamp nut and remove the brake hose from the mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis. Recover the two washers. Thread hose through the guide hole and unscrew the hose from the caliper. Fitting is reverse of removal.

treat yourself to a Gunson's EZBleed kit and you can replace the brake fluid and bleed in under an hour - one man job too.

[rooster]

thanks peeps

[topsparks]

I have 2 sets of braided brake hoses listed on Ebay as follows:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=9886&item=7968316039&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=9886&item=7968316558&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Martin_S]

meeko said:

I replaced my rubber hoses and was straightforward. Unscrew the copper pipe from the brake hose, then unscrew the clamp nut and remove the brake hose from the mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis. Recover the two washers. Thread hose through the guide hole and unscrew the hose from the caliper. Fitting is reverse of removal. treat yourself to a Gunson's EZBleed kit and you can replace the brake fluid and bleed in under an hour - one man job too.

Pretty straightforward as meeko says.

Just to stress the order, though, make sure you unscrew the copper pipes from the hoses before releasing the clamp nuts that hold them to the chassis. Should be obvious, but I've known people turn the wrong nut and twist/kink the copper brake pipes.

Also, the clamp nuts that fix the hoses to the chassis can rust and seize on your old rubber hoses, so I'd suggest that the first job is to give them a good spray with WD40 and leave them for a couple of hours before trying to remove them.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the Gunson Easibleed kits - the seals on the master cylinder always seem to leak a bit and it is easy to get brake fluid over your paintwork. Bit of a faff setting it all up, connecting to tyres for the pressure etc.

I used to just suck the fluid through a pipe from each nipple, but a mouthful of brake fluid is pretty unpleasant, so I've now invested in a hand-operated vacuum pump which does the same thing (ie, sucks the fluid out from the nipple, rather than pushing it through from the master cylinder like an easybleed). More expensive (about £45 IIRC), but much higher quality and easier to use than the Gunson kit.

>> Edited by Martin_S on Saturday 16th April 01:19

[rooster]

Martin_S said:

meeko said: I replaced my rubber hoses and was straightforward. Unscrew the copper pipe from the brake hose, then unscrew the clamp nut and remove the brake hose from the mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis. Recover the two washers. Thread hose through the guide hole and unscrew the hose from the caliper. Fitting is reverse of removal. treat yourself to a Gunson's EZBleed kit and you can replace the brake fluid and bleed in under an hour - one man job too. Pretty straightforward as meeko says. Just to stress the order, though, make sure you unscrew the copper pipes from the hoses before releasing the clamp nuts that hold them to the chassis. Should be obvious, but I've known people turn the wrong nut and twist/kink the copper brake pipes. Also, the clamp nuts that fix the hoses to the chassis can rust and seize on your old rubber hoses, so I'd suggest that the first job is to give them a good spray with WD40 and leave them for a couple of hours before trying to remove them. Personally, I'm not a big fan of the Gunson Easibleed kits - the seals on the master cylinder always seem to leak a bit and it is easy to get brake fluid over your paintwork. Bit of a faff setting it all up, connecting to tyres for the pressure etc. I used to just suck the fluid through a pipe from each nipple, but a mouthful of brake fluid is pretty unpleasant, so I've now invested in a hand-operated vacuum pump which does the same thing (ie, sucks the fluid out from the nipple, rather than pushing it through from the master cylinder like an easybleed). More expensive (about £45 IIRC), but much higher quality and easier to use than the Gunson kit. >> Edited by Martin_S on Saturday 16th April 01:19

Thanks Martin
I will bear all this in mind!
Gill


>> Edited by rooster on Monday 18th April 12:53

[mgaut]

meeko said:

and remove the brake hose from the mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis

Apologies but I came unstuck at this point; prise out the rubber washer, or cut hose either side ?

... and what about when fitting new hose.

thanks

Mike

[Martin_S]

mgaut said:

meeko said: and remove the brake hose from the mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis Apologies but I came unstuck at this point; prise out the rubber washer, or cut hose either side ? ... and what about when fitting new hose. thanks Mike

There is no rubber washer at the end of the flexi pipe, and you can't cut the hose either side!

The flexible brake pipe should be mounted to a chassis bracket at the point where it is joined to the rigid pipe.

The threaded end of the brake hose fitting passes through a hole in the chassis mounting bracket, then a clamp nut is fitted to hold it onto this bracket, then the fitting at the end of the rigid brake pipe is screwed on.

Removing the flexi pipe should be done in the following order:
1) Unscrew the fitting for the end of the rigid brake pipe. This must be done first, so that the flexi-pipe is held inplace by the bracket and cannot rotate. If it is allowed to rotate, the rigid brake line can rotated with it, and will buckle.

2) Unbolt the clamp nut, which will allow the end of the flexi-pipe to be release from the chassis mounting bracket.

3) There is and intermediate support bracket, through which the flexi-pipe passes with a rubber grommet, but if you have released both ends of the brake pipe, it will just pull through this - you chouldn't need to cut the pipe!

>> Edited by Martin_S on Monday 18th April 13:56

[spend]

The rubber washer can be prised out, little rubber lube & some hot water. You have to wind off the wire over protectors first, but these also offer an extra level of protection to the braided hoses if you wind them back on the new ones.

PS I'm pretty sure he is refering to the bit on the upright which keeps the hose out of the way of moving parts.

Dave

[Martin_s]

spend said:

The rubber washer can be prised out, little rubber lube & some hot water. You have to wind off the wire over protectors first, but these also offer an extra level of protection to the braided hoses if you wind them back on the new ones. PS I'm pretty sure he is refering to the bit on the upright which keeps the hose out of the way of moving parts. Dave

Yeah, I was just confused why it should be causing a problem, or why he should be considering cutting the hoses. Once you have unbolted the hoses from the rigid brake lines and main chassis mounting brackets, they just pull though the rubber grommets on the support brackets, don't they?

[mgaut]

Apologies for the confusion; I couldn't see how the hose came out of the rubber grommet on the mounting bracket, but now you've explained it was (quite) easy.

Mike