Discussion
Many owners who do track days will suggest different oils starting 0W or 5W (plus some go for high zinc content), but Powers Performance recommend 10W/40 semi synthetic only.
And if you use any other oil, it negates their 100k mile warranty on engine rebuilds. So they believe it's suitable!
And if you use any other oil, it negates their 100k mile warranty on engine rebuilds. So they believe it's suitable!
Who manages 100,000 miles in five years,,, just saying.
I’m not arguing though.
10/40 semi has done me no harm.
If your engines got high milage or rattles a bit, a drop of 20/50 can work wonders,,, for a time!
I don’t advocate the use of a thicker oil on a newer or low milage engine and oil flow matters more than pressure in these engines it seems.
Mine actually made more noise on thicker oil as it was rebuilt 5 years ago this coming month
I removed the oil within a few miles it was that obvious. Learnt a lesson there,,
But if you have clear mechanical Cam related knock/ rattles a drop of 20/50 as in say 3/4 of a litre into your fresh oil mix can quieten them down a lot. It’s just taking up the clearance from already worn parts and saving more wear.
Not so clever in winter and will add to cold start rattle.
Been talking to a Landy mate so maybe a bit old school stuff
I’m not arguing though.
10/40 semi has done me no harm.
If your engines got high milage or rattles a bit, a drop of 20/50 can work wonders,,, for a time!
I don’t advocate the use of a thicker oil on a newer or low milage engine and oil flow matters more than pressure in these engines it seems.
Mine actually made more noise on thicker oil as it was rebuilt 5 years ago this coming month
I removed the oil within a few miles it was that obvious. Learnt a lesson there,,
But if you have clear mechanical Cam related knock/ rattles a drop of 20/50 as in say 3/4 of a litre into your fresh oil mix can quieten them down a lot. It’s just taking up the clearance from already worn parts and saving more wear.
Not so clever in winter and will add to cold start rattle.
Been talking to a Landy mate so maybe a bit old school stuff
Everyone has their own opinion on all these oils and if you can be arsed to read the old link below, you'll see what I mean!
Engine oil is very subjective with every grade mentioned in previous posts i.e. 5/50, 10/40, 20/50, 10/60 and so on. I use 10/40 semi synthetic Shell Helix as I have a warranty from Powers. It must be changed annually.
Your gearbox being the LT77, would probably have started off with auto transmission fluid as this is thin and helps to prevent the stiff second gear change on a cold morning. I have never been a fan of this oil in a heavy loaded environment but that's just my opinion from Rover SD1s. One long term member of the SD1 club even used 10/40 engine oil which he swore by.....
I would use Castrol Syntrax 75/90 but if 2nd gear became too stiff might have to reconsider.
The GKN diff does not need the super-duper LSD oil like the later BTR so I used Fuchs Titan Syn 75/90 in there. You could also use the Castrol Syntrax too.
Some entertaining reading: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you are in any doubt, Opie Oils have a sticky and worth contacting for a recommendation:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
or use the link on their website to input your car details.
I think Euro Car Parts have a discount code of Payday35 over this weekend so might be an idea to get a decent price.
Engine oil is very subjective with every grade mentioned in previous posts i.e. 5/50, 10/40, 20/50, 10/60 and so on. I use 10/40 semi synthetic Shell Helix as I have a warranty from Powers. It must be changed annually.
Your gearbox being the LT77, would probably have started off with auto transmission fluid as this is thin and helps to prevent the stiff second gear change on a cold morning. I have never been a fan of this oil in a heavy loaded environment but that's just my opinion from Rover SD1s. One long term member of the SD1 club even used 10/40 engine oil which he swore by.....
I would use Castrol Syntrax 75/90 but if 2nd gear became too stiff might have to reconsider.
The GKN diff does not need the super-duper LSD oil like the later BTR so I used Fuchs Titan Syn 75/90 in there. You could also use the Castrol Syntrax too.
Some entertaining reading: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you are in any doubt, Opie Oils have a sticky and worth contacting for a recommendation:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
or use the link on their website to input your car details.
I think Euro Car Parts have a discount code of Payday35 over this weekend so might be an idea to get a decent price.
Frostiechim said:
Just to throw it out there, for people more knowledgeable than me. In my humble Land Rover 90 I use MTF94 in my LT77.
This is slightly thicker than ATF. I changed to this as the rumors are that GL5 EP additives can damage the mesh and I struggle to find GL4.
Any thoughts?
David
MTF 94 is recommended for all Land Rover manual boxes , cold shift performance is excellent a real bug bear of mine This is slightly thicker than ATF. I changed to this as the rumors are that GL5 EP additives can damage the mesh and I struggle to find GL4.
Any thoughts?
David
Chromoflaire said:
Lucas 75w/140 Synthetic for the Box
That viscosity will be too thick for the box imho. The 140 is the cold 'thickness' and 2nd gear on the LT77 has always been difficult. The MTF94 recommended above would be a good choice as its GL4 spec and suitable for the LT box. You can buy genuine Land Rover stuff from Rimmer Brothers.
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-STC9158?scid=...
ianwayne said:
Many owners who do track days will suggest different oils starting 0W or 5W (plus some go for high zinc content), but Powers Performance recommend 10W/40 semi synthetic only.
And if you use any other oil, it negates their 100k mile warranty on engine rebuilds. So they believe it's suitable!
The problem is that one recommends a 10/40 and another a 20/50!And if you use any other oil, it negates their 100k mile warranty on engine rebuilds. So they believe it's suitable!
Wasnt the later serp engine designed to run on 10/40 and the earlier pre serp a 20/50 due to the oil pumps?
macdeb said:
Personally I would never use a 0-40 oil in these engines. Valvoline VR1 20/50
This ^ but If your worried about using something less sluggish when cold (use over winter months) then Valvoline do a VR1 in a 10/60 semi syn (my oil of choice at the moment) or you have Penrite, Millers,Comp Cams or Morris oils all doing oils with the correct amount of ZDDP/Zinc additive 
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