2005 VW Transporter Shuttle it is very red
Discussion
Well this is a jump into the dark, never had a Transporter before. I hope I have bought fairly well, but its a fixer upper as the Yanks say.
I present the mid £3k LWB 1.9 SE Shuttle.
Owned by an executive chauffeur company and then a pub to ferry drunk N. Irish people home in. 2 of these were PXed with a dealer for a new one, someone very local to me in Herts flew out for a look and bought both as the dealer wouldn't split them, and got them shipped from NI and he is keeping the silver one. He managed to get this through an MOT and put it up for sale to pay for the work he is planning on the other one with the profit.
I want it as a mobile field office and van to move work stuff to site. It is pretty tidy, 186k but no s/h. I think the mileage is correct, the vendor seemed pretty straight up. If I can find the NI mot's that would be a start.
It came with a Tony Bennet xmas casette.
More pics when the weather warms up.
Whilst it has an MOT, with no advisories either, it is going to need:
Cambelt, as no history. May DIY will read up.
Reversing camera asap.
Fix oil leak from engine, must have been hidden by the undertray from MOT tester.
Hesitant/surging at a bit at low speeds, goes like the clappers though. This could be the EGR or a leak somewhere. The turbo whistles which seems to be linked.
Rear door stuck closed, need to get the trim off.
NS door hinge loose.
Second key needed just in case.
New catch for little tiny window in the rear.
Tracking.
New steering wheel or cover, its worn and horrid.
Centre vents not working, easyish fix according to forums.
It was very crashy over potholes, will have to research the best bushes but hopefully the ones on it are OKish as it has just passed an MOT.
I have captains chairs, which I thought would rotate but this just means that there are 2 armrests, Might fit swivel bases.
I had no idea these things were quite so large, 2 rear rows and a big boot. I wanted the 1.9 rather than the 2.5 as they are supposed to be a pig to get fixed when they go wrong, although the 2.5 doesn't need cambelts. The tailgate looks brilliant when we have to get kit out of the boot in the rain too.
I will keep the post updated as work progresses.
I present the mid £3k LWB 1.9 SE Shuttle.
Owned by an executive chauffeur company and then a pub to ferry drunk N. Irish people home in. 2 of these were PXed with a dealer for a new one, someone very local to me in Herts flew out for a look and bought both as the dealer wouldn't split them, and got them shipped from NI and he is keeping the silver one. He managed to get this through an MOT and put it up for sale to pay for the work he is planning on the other one with the profit.
I want it as a mobile field office and van to move work stuff to site. It is pretty tidy, 186k but no s/h. I think the mileage is correct, the vendor seemed pretty straight up. If I can find the NI mot's that would be a start.
It came with a Tony Bennet xmas casette.
More pics when the weather warms up.
Whilst it has an MOT, with no advisories either, it is going to need:
Cambelt, as no history. May DIY will read up.
Reversing camera asap.
Fix oil leak from engine, must have been hidden by the undertray from MOT tester.
Hesitant/surging at a bit at low speeds, goes like the clappers though. This could be the EGR or a leak somewhere. The turbo whistles which seems to be linked.
Rear door stuck closed, need to get the trim off.
NS door hinge loose.
Second key needed just in case.
New catch for little tiny window in the rear.
Tracking.
New steering wheel or cover, its worn and horrid.
Centre vents not working, easyish fix according to forums.
It was very crashy over potholes, will have to research the best bushes but hopefully the ones on it are OKish as it has just passed an MOT.
I have captains chairs, which I thought would rotate but this just means that there are 2 armrests, Might fit swivel bases.
I had no idea these things were quite so large, 2 rear rows and a big boot. I wanted the 1.9 rather than the 2.5 as they are supposed to be a pig to get fixed when they go wrong, although the 2.5 doesn't need cambelts. The tailgate looks brilliant when we have to get kit out of the boot in the rain too.
I will keep the post updated as work progresses.
Don't know anything about vans as such, but that looks a decent buy to me.
It would be tempting, since this is PH, to make it look a bit different....ie some nice dished second-hand alloys, lower spring height, and maybe consider a remap (?) unless it already has one. If it is the 1.9 PD diesel than I seem to recall that is a very good engine and better than the current VW group engines. Those on here who know more will probably be along shortly !
Keep the updates coming.
It would be tempting, since this is PH, to make it look a bit different....ie some nice dished second-hand alloys, lower spring height, and maybe consider a remap (?) unless it already has one. If it is the 1.9 PD diesel than I seem to recall that is a very good engine and better than the current VW group engines. Those on here who know more will probably be along shortly !
Keep the updates coming.
Paul S4 said:
It would be tempting...... to make it look a bit different....ie some nice dished second-hand alloys, lower spring height
What planet do you live on - they ALL have daft Wheels, chrome, coilovers etc! Standard is different!
Goudhurst though I reckon you've done well at 3k, especially for red. These are well in demand for camper and day van conversions. A mates dad had one with 200k hard miles and got a lot more than that for it I think.
snotrag said:
Paul S4 said:
It would be tempting...... to make it look a bit different....ie some nice dished second-hand alloys, lower spring height
What planet do you live on - they ALL have daft Wheels, chrome, coilovers etc! Standard is different!
98% of Volkswagen vans I see have this tat on.
OP lovely van and service history isn't anything!
reversing camera?! It's full of windows!No moding I like standard, not going to chip it either rather make the clutch last asap.
The tailgate was stuck open a little, and the very rear seats wouldn't fold over. Had to climb over the seats and managed to free the mech up so the seats now work as they should. After disassembling the doorcard it turned out that the tailgate was not latching so it just needed a shove. However the catch will not click closed, something has gone awry in it. And I need a spined bit to get it off. Repeated slamming just makes the door bounce open again.
Boring photos!
The tailgate was stuck open a little, and the very rear seats wouldn't fold over. Had to climb over the seats and managed to free the mech up so the seats now work as they should. After disassembling the doorcard it turned out that the tailgate was not latching so it just needed a shove. However the catch will not click closed, something has gone awry in it. And I need a spined bit to get it off. Repeated slamming just makes the door bounce open again.
Boring photos!
If you want a Northern Irish one with no history I would think so.
Managed to get one nut off the tailgate catch, couldn't get the other off. Luckily it has started working with loads of WD40, carb cleaner and wiggling. Result, just when I was about to give up.
Tailgate now closes and locks.
The turbo is a bit "whizzy", the inter cooler was changed I think there is an air leak. Or the turbo is foobar, oil leak right by it. I may just hand it to my trusty local mechanic and get him to sort it all. I tried getting the EGR off and was defeated by the bolts on the breather pipe, hugely tight and no room to manoeuvre.
Door update, sliding door on N/S was not right. The middle roller is definitely worn, took door card off and tried to adjust. Then found the catch when the door is open is not working so the door closes. All fixed now, spring had come off and end of rod from handle. Had to adjust door post to get door height right. I think a middle roller is in order to help it out.
It is massive in there, I have removed the single seat as 7 seats is enough and makes access easier.
Managed to get one nut off the tailgate catch, couldn't get the other off. Luckily it has started working with loads of WD40, carb cleaner and wiggling. Result, just when I was about to give up.
Tailgate now closes and locks.
The turbo is a bit "whizzy", the inter cooler was changed I think there is an air leak. Or the turbo is foobar, oil leak right by it. I may just hand it to my trusty local mechanic and get him to sort it all. I tried getting the EGR off and was defeated by the bolts on the breather pipe, hugely tight and no room to manoeuvre.
Edited by lost in espace on Friday 29th December 19:43
Door update, sliding door on N/S was not right. The middle roller is definitely worn, took door card off and tried to adjust. Then found the catch when the door is open is not working so the door closes. All fixed now, spring had come off and end of rod from handle. Had to adjust door post to get door height right. I think a middle roller is in order to help it out.
It is massive in there, I have removed the single seat as 7 seats is enough and makes access easier.
Edited by lost in espace on Saturday 30th December 17:33
Well progress is slow. Sorted small niggles and it is taxed now. The cam belt was done by the local garage with gen parts for £260 which was good value. A pipe attached to the intercooler had popped off so power was down and black smoke was coming out. I have fixed this I hope, power back but still hesitant.
Initially I thought that the hesitancy at low speeds was the turbo but now I am not so sure, and after reading up on engine injector loom issues splashed out on one to fit when it stops raining. The battery let me down outside the station, left the headlights on outside the station and it wouldn't start or even jump. Had to take the battery home and charge it to get it started. Fitting an 019 battery which is bigger than the standard one.
And the oil leak is worse, I am fairly certain the oil feed and return pipes are the issue but hard to get at without a lift. I managed to tighten one of the return pipe bolts and the feed where it enters the turbo but no better. Local garage to fit new gaskets I think, if the hesitantcy has gone thanks to the new loom otherwise its a new turbo. The turbo does make a whizzing noise at slow speeds, and the moo valve is new so I don't think it is that.
Initially I thought that the hesitancy at low speeds was the turbo but now I am not so sure, and after reading up on engine injector loom issues splashed out on one to fit when it stops raining. The battery let me down outside the station, left the headlights on outside the station and it wouldn't start or even jump. Had to take the battery home and charge it to get it started. Fitting an 019 battery which is bigger than the standard one.
And the oil leak is worse, I am fairly certain the oil feed and return pipes are the issue but hard to get at without a lift. I managed to tighten one of the return pipe bolts and the feed where it enters the turbo but no better. Local garage to fit new gaskets I think, if the hesitantcy has gone thanks to the new loom otherwise its a new turbo. The turbo does make a whizzing noise at slow speeds, and the moo valve is new so I don't think it is that.
Injector loom is unlikely to fix it. Usual symptom of that failing on a PD is a misfire on cylinder 3 (I think). Great fun driving it like that...
Hesitant turbo might be a couple of things, but I doubt it's a boost leak. Possibly a gummed turbo vane showing early signs before it goes to fully stuck and limp mode. Run the tank low and then use a turbo cleaner in the fuel tank (I know, snake oil, but it worked for me!). Forte is apparently the best, but a autoparts friend recommended Clean Drive. 2 bottles eventually did the trick.
Hesitant turbo might be a couple of things, but I doubt it's a boost leak. Possibly a gummed turbo vane showing early signs before it goes to fully stuck and limp mode. Run the tank low and then use a turbo cleaner in the fuel tank (I know, snake oil, but it worked for me!). Forte is apparently the best, but a autoparts friend recommended Clean Drive. 2 bottles eventually did the trick.
Evanivitch said:
Injector loom is unlikely to fix it. Usual symptom of that failing on a PD is a misfire on cylinder 3 (I think). Great fun driving it like that...
Hesitant turbo might be a couple of things, but I doubt it's a boost leak. Possibly a gummed turbo vane showing early signs before it goes to fully stuck and limp mode. Run the tank low and then use a turbo cleaner in the fuel tank (I know, snake oil, but it worked for me!). Forte is apparently the best, but a autoparts friend recommended Clean Drive. 2 bottles eventually did the trick.
Put the loom in, the hesitatncy is slightly improved but still there. No boost leaks now. I had a very smoky van, on start up and booting it in 3rd, the loom change has resolved this! Which made up for the hesitancy remaining. Hesitant turbo might be a couple of things, but I doubt it's a boost leak. Possibly a gummed turbo vane showing early signs before it goes to fully stuck and limp mode. Run the tank low and then use a turbo cleaner in the fuel tank (I know, snake oil, but it worked for me!). Forte is apparently the best, but a autoparts friend recommended Clean Drive. 2 bottles eventually did the trick.
Annoyingly I have just filled the van up, but thank you for the advice. I need to garage to do the oil pipes where it is leaking as I can't get to them, and I am wondering if they may as well put a £220 reconditioned turbo on it whilst the pipes are off as there isn't a lot more work.
Evanivitch said:
Injector loom is unlikely to fix it. Usual symptom of that failing on a PD is a misfire on cylinder 3 (I think). Great fun driving it like that...
Hesitant turbo might be a couple of things, but I doubt it's a boost leak. Possibly a gummed turbo vane showing early signs before it goes to fully stuck and limp mode. Run the tank low and then use a turbo cleaner in the fuel tank (I know, snake oil, but it worked for me!). Forte is apparently the best, but a autoparts friend recommended Clean Drive. 2 bottles eventually did the trick.
Seconded on the Forte. Hesitant turbo might be a couple of things, but I doubt it's a boost leak. Possibly a gummed turbo vane showing early signs before it goes to fully stuck and limp mode. Run the tank low and then use a turbo cleaner in the fuel tank (I know, snake oil, but it worked for me!). Forte is apparently the best, but a autoparts friend recommended Clean Drive. 2 bottles eventually did the trick.
I once owned a high-mileage Audi A4 2.5 V6 TDi that had all kinds of driveability problems (hesitation, flat spots, jerkiness, etc.) My mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the car, and it didn't throw up any fault codes on an OBDII reader.
Frustrated, I threw a bottle of Forte through the fuel system, and all my problems went away.
True story.
ETA: If there is a mechanical problem with the car, Forte won't fix it, but if there's nothing up with the engine, a bottle of Forte won't hurt.
Edited by MorganP104 on Saturday 10th February 20:13
I bought some injector cleaner off ebay, after about 30 miles its doing a brilliant job no more smoke and the turbo has really freed up. Lumpiness gone, injector loom probably helped a little.
The oil leak seems to be on top of the turbo, where the oil pipe goes in. Tried tightening it and it seems to have got worse, so just booked it into the garage to sort. The cam belt was so reasonable seems silly not to, I have had a look but access to the pipes is awful. So I don't need a new turbo by the look of it. Also changing the fuel filter which may help further.
The interior lights were staying on and its suffering from cable stretch in both sliding doors, one handle you have to pull twice and the other stopped working on the inside. I had to cable tie one of the door cables back a bit to get the interior handle working, but this meant the micro switch wouldn't activate and the lights stayed on. I just disabled the micro switch, I can put up with the lights not coming on with one of the rear doors. £100 for a new mechanism there does't seem to be a way to just change the cable.
Also got some drop links to try to solve the crashing noise, but it does seem to have eased a little since I started driving it. I am still paranoid about these diesel engines packing up after 4 years of electric cars.
I am quite enjoying being a T5 owner now. We filled it with rubbish for the tip, and these LWB jobs are massive. It is actually nice to drive and my paranoia about the size is very manageable with all the glass. I suspect the next thing to sort will be the driveshaft and stub axles, grinds a bit in reverse on a slope or full lock. Common fault. And the tracking and a newish steering wheel mine is all peeled at the top. I found a car park ticket dated 2016 which is probably when it was laid up.
The oil leak seems to be on top of the turbo, where the oil pipe goes in. Tried tightening it and it seems to have got worse, so just booked it into the garage to sort. The cam belt was so reasonable seems silly not to, I have had a look but access to the pipes is awful. So I don't need a new turbo by the look of it. Also changing the fuel filter which may help further.
The interior lights were staying on and its suffering from cable stretch in both sliding doors, one handle you have to pull twice and the other stopped working on the inside. I had to cable tie one of the door cables back a bit to get the interior handle working, but this meant the micro switch wouldn't activate and the lights stayed on. I just disabled the micro switch, I can put up with the lights not coming on with one of the rear doors. £100 for a new mechanism there does't seem to be a way to just change the cable.
Also got some drop links to try to solve the crashing noise, but it does seem to have eased a little since I started driving it. I am still paranoid about these diesel engines packing up after 4 years of electric cars.
I am quite enjoying being a T5 owner now. We filled it with rubbish for the tip, and these LWB jobs are massive. It is actually nice to drive and my paranoia about the size is very manageable with all the glass. I suspect the next thing to sort will be the driveshaft and stub axles, grinds a bit in reverse on a slope or full lock. Common fault. And the tracking and a newish steering wheel mine is all peeled at the top. I found a car park ticket dated 2016 which is probably when it was laid up.
It is back from the garage. It no longer has an oil leak the Exxon Valdez would be proud of, turbo oil feed pipe leaking. The crashy ride is better with use, maybe the bushes just needed a good smash about. Steering off centre and a bit random, garage said it was because the tyres are oddly worn and different makes. On the lookout for some cheap steelies with good rubber.
Still a bit smoky between gears, other times not. Need to use it properly. Still don't fully trust it, so using the Leaf to drive to time a running race in the morning.
Still a bit smoky between gears, other times not. Need to use it properly. Still don't fully trust it, so using the Leaf to drive to time a running race in the morning.
MAF removed, I had tried this previously, and the smoking has reduced massively. It was very random, ran clean on the motorway then just dumped a load of grey or black smoke out of the back, then went OK again. New MAF on order.
By the look of it the headlight stalk has blown, fuses ok, switch tested, no headlights. Just trying to get a new stalk.
By the look of it the headlight stalk has blown, fuses ok, switch tested, no headlights. Just trying to get a new stalk.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff