Rods
Author
Discussion

debaron

Original Poster:

878 posts

219 months

Tuesday 26th December 2017
quotequote all

Merry Christmas all.

Block has just been finished at Power for my 96mm forged pistons for blower project.

But having trouble finding Rods at a sensible price (Arrow want 2k + VAT for a set) - I'm sure they are the best but am also sure there must be a more reasonably priced set available.

Anyone know of a Chevy set that would fit perhaps?

Wrist pin and big ends all standard size

Or can one safely use the standard rods??

Thanks


ETA - 4.6L - 450HP at crank ideally.


Edited by debaron on Tuesday 26th December 14:06

macdeb

8,722 posts

277 months

Tuesday 26th December 2017
quotequote all
The standard 4.6 rods are very strong and being as though your are going FI you wont be needing to chase revs. IMHO

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Tuesday 26th December 2017
quotequote all
I agree with Mac. Stock rods are way better then earlier rover stuff. Anything chevy will require shaving down as well as a pin solution. You will still have pressed pins though. Aftermarket offers a floating pin solution which has benefits should things go wrong but I doubt that'll happen. Save your 2k and buy good shells, rings and head studs.

Chevy come with a 2" or 2.1" journal and several lengths. There could be one that's the same as a 4.6 but don't hold your breath. You need to factor rod length with piston pin height etc. You'll struggle to get a decent bowl in the piston if the rods to long. Personally I'd work out how big a bowl I could achieve with a stock rod and if it's what I need. If not I'd pick a rod length before the piston specs if that makes sense. I'm assuming the crank is stock.


Edited by Boosted LS1 on Tuesday 26th December 20:59

debaron

Original Poster:

878 posts

219 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Thanks all

Will go for stock rods shot peened for a little extra strength.

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
I wouldn't waste your money on shot peening. If there are any sharp 90 degree edges near the bolt heads then work to radius those would be good time/effort invested.

Sardonicus

19,311 posts

243 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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All my fast Ford con-rods always looked like this , worthwhile & very satisfying when finished

debaron

Original Poster:

878 posts

219 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
All my fast Ford con-rods always looked like this , worthwhile & very satisfying when finished
Thanks Simon - is that just achieved with a soft wheel on a grinder and some care and attention?

Sardonicus

19,311 posts

243 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
debaron said:
Sardonicus said:
All my fast Ford con-rods always looked like this , worthwhile & very satisfying when finished
Thanks Simon - is that just achieved with a soft wheel on a grinder and some care and attention?
Always prep in the same direction bi end to small end i.e micro scratches top to bottom rather than side to side wink I would use abrasive cartridge rolls nowadays but back then I used abrasive wheels (slower/long legged) biggrin wear a breathing mask ferrous dust/material is nasty stuff , when I went to collect my engine parts post balancing and machining back in the 90's at Burton Power commented they was probably the nicest sets they had ever seen biggrin Oh Thanks said I laugh


Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 29th December 15:01

Dominic TVRetto

1,405 posts

203 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Without wishing to appear rude, is there any practical reason to do that, or purely cosmetic..?

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

171 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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^^^^^
I don’t care I’d just like mine done like that bow

If I’d known I’d have done that to every fizzy I owned, marginally lighter so less vibration, anything to justify it in my book thumbup

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
^ The idea is that you remove any minute cracks thus preventing them from getting worse but the most likely point of failure is the sharp edge by the bolt heads if there is one. Rod prepping won't do any harm though :-)

macdeb

8,722 posts

277 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
Love this stuff, just 'cus nobody can see it, it still brings great satisfaction (along with proper build benefits) Just remember to get them balanced/weighted afterwards. no anorak smilie available

Sardonicus

19,311 posts

243 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
Boosted LS1 said:
^ The idea is that you remove any minute cracks thus preventing them from getting worse but the most likely point of failure is the sharp edge by the bolt heads if there is one. Rod prepping won't do any harm though :-)
Pretty much wink removing that nasty forging rib/ridge (far from ideal durability wise) was my reason loosing a small amount of weight in the process , fact is I never needed to I reckon as I had very light pistons in this build and the motor was only spinning up to just over 7.5k well within my durability bracket IMO




Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 29th December 22:15

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Friday 29th December 2017
quotequote all
^ And they do look much nicer. Sometimes the flash line can look a bit crap :-)