Audi A8 (D3) 3.2 FSI - Advice and views appreciated
Discussion
Hi,
I am just starting the hunt for an A8. I've got attached to the idea of a 3.0 TDI but given the fact I live on the Isle of Wight and do 10-12k a year I might be better off with a petrol. I reason:
1) Cheaper to buy
2) No DPF problems
3) We don't get snow here (well, once in the last 10 years) so Quattro would be a bit pointless really
Am I thinking on the right lines? If I plump for one of these I can also get a post late 2007 facelift one which does have a prettier rear end and I believe the handling and suspension were all worked out by then. However I know nothing about this engine, especially in this car.
Any and all D3 advice is welcome and appreciated!
I am just starting the hunt for an A8. I've got attached to the idea of a 3.0 TDI but given the fact I live on the Isle of Wight and do 10-12k a year I might be better off with a petrol. I reason:
1) Cheaper to buy
2) No DPF problems
3) We don't get snow here (well, once in the last 10 years) so Quattro would be a bit pointless really
Am I thinking on the right lines? If I plump for one of these I can also get a post late 2007 facelift one which does have a prettier rear end and I believe the handling and suspension were all worked out by then. However I know nothing about this engine, especially in this car.
Any and all D3 advice is welcome and appreciated!
From what I've heard, the fuel economy of the 3.2FSI isn't much better than the 4.2 (despite the lack of Quattro and the smaller engine). It also comes with a CVT gearbox rather than a traditional torque converter type.
Here are some of the general issues with the A8 D3:
- Rear lights - even facelift ones seem to have issues with water ingress which damages the LEDs. Replacement units are £200+ each.
- Air suspension - the most common fault is the compressor. Replacement compressors are expensive but they can usually be repaired by stripping it down and replacing the worn piston ring for a total cost of £15. I've done this on mine and it was a fairly simple job.
- Rear number plate bulbs - this seems like a minor issue but the screws round off very easily and they're very hard to drill out due to the angle. I ended up replacing the boot strip on mine to allow me to replace the bulbs as the MOT was due shortly.
- Automatic boot lid motor - these become weak over time and lose the strength to open the boot. This isn't a major problem as it still be opened by hand.
- Bonnet drains - these drains can get clogged up with leaves which causes water to pool up and enter the air vents, eventually leaking into the interior. The immobiliser module is hidden underneath the front seat and is at risk of water damage if this occurs.
- Rear parking brake motors - the housings of these motors often crack and allow water inside. This can cause the parking brake to become stuck on.
Be aware that these cars have an aluminium body. Lots of body shops won't work on it at all or will want to transport it to a specialist. This means dents can be expensive to repair.
As long as you can do most jobs yourself they aren't too expensive to run. I've had mine for just over two years and haven't had any major issues with it.
Here are some of the general issues with the A8 D3:
- Rear lights - even facelift ones seem to have issues with water ingress which damages the LEDs. Replacement units are £200+ each.
- Air suspension - the most common fault is the compressor. Replacement compressors are expensive but they can usually be repaired by stripping it down and replacing the worn piston ring for a total cost of £15. I've done this on mine and it was a fairly simple job.
- Rear number plate bulbs - this seems like a minor issue but the screws round off very easily and they're very hard to drill out due to the angle. I ended up replacing the boot strip on mine to allow me to replace the bulbs as the MOT was due shortly.
- Automatic boot lid motor - these become weak over time and lose the strength to open the boot. This isn't a major problem as it still be opened by hand.
- Bonnet drains - these drains can get clogged up with leaves which causes water to pool up and enter the air vents, eventually leaking into the interior. The immobiliser module is hidden underneath the front seat and is at risk of water damage if this occurs.
- Rear parking brake motors - the housings of these motors often crack and allow water inside. This can cause the parking brake to become stuck on.
Be aware that these cars have an aluminium body. Lots of body shops won't work on it at all or will want to transport it to a specialist. This means dents can be expensive to repair.
As long as you can do most jobs yourself they aren't too expensive to run. I've had mine for just over two years and haven't had any major issues with it.
Edited by MatthewH5 on Wednesday 24th January 00:20
Edited by MatthewH5 on Wednesday 24th January 00:21
Schermerhorn said:
I'm looking at one of these too now, albeit a 3.0 TDi version.
I see plenty of CVT ones out there too, but how does that transmission compare to a regular auto box?
The cvt box is called multitronic. It was nicknamed multichronic due to all the issues. The later boxes are better. I had one on a a6 and did 115k miles with no problem. Others gave up after 30-40k. It's a funny box to drive and takes some getting used to.I see plenty of CVT ones out there too, but how does that transmission compare to a regular auto box?
If you can it's worth holding out for a Quattro tiptronic.
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