Audi TT Mk1 8N Track car first Mods?
Discussion
J4CKO said:
Remove the 18 kilo ballast behind the rear bumper, remove the rear seats and spare etc.
Was that fitted as part of the stability improvements, along with the rear spoiler, when early cars were recalled to "fix" their interesting handling? If so, is removing it such a good idea, unless weight from the front is somehow re-distributed to the rear?once went round Elvington on a trackday in a TT, it was the most understeering roly poly car i've ever been in unfortunately.
it was quick though!
i'd be thinking try it first with some decent pads and fluid, and find out what regular track users are doing with theirs in terms of alignment, shocks etc, to make it more neutral if poss.
it was quick though!
i'd be thinking try it first with some decent pads and fluid, and find out what regular track users are doing with theirs in terms of alignment, shocks etc, to make it more neutral if poss.
andy97 said:
Was that fitted as part of the stability improvements, along with the rear spoiler, when early cars were recalled to "fix" their interesting handling? If so, is removing it such a good idea, unless weight from the front is somehow re-distributed to the rear?
For what it's worth, the Quattro Sport does without it from the factory.Right lines but for a first 'mod' on a ~15 year old car you want to be sure it's in the best health it can be. Give yourself the best possible canvas to start with.
They're prone to little electrical gremlins affecting boost and airflow so make sure it runs 100%.
The oil pump pickups sludge up with emulsified oil which on track could prove catastrophic. Worth checking/cleaning/replacing for your peace of mind. The clutch slaves on these can also fail without warning so one to hold in mind if you don't know its history.
These cars were always known for eating assorted suspension bits, top mounts, drop links, springs... anything that's showing signs of age/wear replace. The 'dogbone' engine mounts often wears prematurely too and give you what feels like loads of drive-line shunt. There are quality uprated/poly versions of everything underneath a TT readily available.
Top all that off with the best tyres you can afford (Pilot Supersports are staggering as fast road/track tyres) and a proper 4 wheel alignment.
If there's any cash left in the piggy bank some track tuition is great value and will pick you up more pace than any remap, big brake kit, coilovers ever would. The instructors generally have a really good feel for what a car's doing as well and should be able to make a few good pointers on the car if they felt it was lacking somewhere or doing something unusual.
They're prone to little electrical gremlins affecting boost and airflow so make sure it runs 100%.
The oil pump pickups sludge up with emulsified oil which on track could prove catastrophic. Worth checking/cleaning/replacing for your peace of mind. The clutch slaves on these can also fail without warning so one to hold in mind if you don't know its history.
These cars were always known for eating assorted suspension bits, top mounts, drop links, springs... anything that's showing signs of age/wear replace. The 'dogbone' engine mounts often wears prematurely too and give you what feels like loads of drive-line shunt. There are quality uprated/poly versions of everything underneath a TT readily available.
Top all that off with the best tyres you can afford (Pilot Supersports are staggering as fast road/track tyres) and a proper 4 wheel alignment.
If there's any cash left in the piggy bank some track tuition is great value and will pick you up more pace than any remap, big brake kit, coilovers ever would. The instructors generally have a really good feel for what a car's doing as well and should be able to make a few good pointers on the car if they felt it was lacking somewhere or doing something unusual.
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