Discussion
From memory there are more bolts behind the fuel tank and on top of the transmission tunnel which are unhelpfully located beneath the dash. I took the top and bottom parts of the dash off when I did mine, but depending on what your plans are this does provide good access for disconnecting wiring.
You will also need to remove all the seat belt fixings, disconnect the brake and clutch pipes where they come through the body by the reservoirs and disconnect the heater pipes in the passenger footwell.
There are a couple of wires to the gearbox to disconnect and the wire to the sensor thingy on the prop shaft just in front of the diff. You will need to loosen the handbrake cable to get the handbrake lever as vertical as possible and remove the gear knobb.
I can't think of anything else off hand....you then just need to start jacking and propping. You will start sh1tting yourself when you see what your outriggers look like from above once they are exposed!!
Are you wishing you hadn't started yet? Well worth it in the end.
What's your plan? Is this just to clean off and protect the chassis or are there "outrigger repairs" to do? Good Luck.
Paul.
Oh, just remembered you'll need to disconnect the steering UJ aswell.
>> Edited by paul garabette on Tuesday 19th April 23:05
You will also need to remove all the seat belt fixings, disconnect the brake and clutch pipes where they come through the body by the reservoirs and disconnect the heater pipes in the passenger footwell.
There are a couple of wires to the gearbox to disconnect and the wire to the sensor thingy on the prop shaft just in front of the diff. You will need to loosen the handbrake cable to get the handbrake lever as vertical as possible and remove the gear knobb.
I can't think of anything else off hand....you then just need to start jacking and propping. You will start sh1tting yourself when you see what your outriggers look like from above once they are exposed!!
Are you wishing you hadn't started yet? Well worth it in the end.
What's your plan? Is this just to clean off and protect the chassis or are there "outrigger repairs" to do? Good Luck.
Paul.
Oh, just remembered you'll need to disconnect the steering UJ aswell.
>> Edited by paul garabette on Tuesday 19th April 23:05
Just to add.... fuel pipes / breather to tank, and into carbon can at front wing (down by rad outlet). Radiator Hoses. Servo hose & purge hose to front wing. Throttle cable. Check under the rear parcel shelf, heard of a car with bolts thru - could have been because a factory roll bar was removed. Air duct from plenum.
To manipulate wiring, throttle cable & air duct between bulkhead & engine I reckon its easier to pop off the plenum to gain access.
Dave
To manipulate wiring, throttle cable & air duct between bulkhead & engine I reckon its easier to pop off the plenum to gain access.
Dave
Just to add, you may as well take out the engine and gear box while your at it,to paint the chassis properly,while your at that too, you may as well look at changeing the engine for a Chev and t56.
If you haven't stripped the interior and are removing the body i'd reccommend the bible,iv'e done this with out it but it will save heaps of hassle.
One other note,before removing the chassis,give the body a good rattle,the road grime will act like a wedge where it has attatched itself around the out riggers.
If you haven't stripped the interior and are removing the body i'd reccommend the bible,iv'e done this with out it but it will save heaps of hassle.
One other note,before removing the chassis,give the body a good rattle,the road grime will act like a wedge where it has attatched itself around the out riggers.
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