I've made a mess of a tie rod change, please help

[Jamesr0012]

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone on here may be able to help me. I've made a serious mess of replacing a simple tie rod end on my Mitsubishi L200. I've sheared off the ball pin and the screw part so I'm just left with the tapered piece of the pin stuck in the cast iron hanger, flush on top and bottom. I've tried heating and hammering to release it, nothing. I've drilled up from the bottom and down from the top but I've gone through so many drill bits. I think hitting it has hardened the steel. I've got cobalt drill bits stuck in the top. I haven't damaged the tapered cast part but 2 garages I've spoken to reckon it's a disaster. I'm thinking I just keep drilling but it's down to tiny filings and I don't seem to be getting anywhere. Can anyone reassure me that I'm going to get it done? Or suggest anything? I'm on the verge of a nervous breakdown, I've invented new swearwords!

[SHutchinson]

Is the nut still on the bottom? Can you cut that off then punch the tapered shaft out?

Alternatively: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2008-MITSUBISHI-L200-4W...

[t400ble]

Photo?

Would it not have smacked out?

[Jamesr0012]

It would have come out with a puller but I just went ahead and cut the part thinking it would all fall out. I'm kicking myself at how stupid I am, I just need it fixed. The situation now is I am almost drilled through but don't seem to be getting anywhere on the last bits. I haven't damaged the taper. Older model than that, 2005, but thanks for the suggestion, it's looking like a distinct possibility.

[Jamesr0012]

It didn't come out by hammering.

[SHutchinson]

How many years had the car been under water?

Have you got some drifts and a hammer. You'll get it out, especially if you can apply a bit of heat to the metal it's stuck in.

[4x4Tyke]

The usual solution I've seen in this situation is weld on a new nut, then apply plenty of heat and freeing oil, with heat you need to get it really hot, what are you using?

The disc looks pretty beaten up, as the fall back, what about replacing the whole assembly with a salvage item?

Edited by 4x4Tyke on Friday 23 February 12:04

[Jamesr0012]

I've tried hammering it out with heat but I didn't get anywhere. Think I will? Should I heat the carrier or just the whole thing?

[Jamesr0012]

Been heating with butane propane mix. I'd like to not replace the whole lot but if I spend another day trying to get this out and I don't then it will have to be done. Ive made it difficult for myself.

[4x4Tyke]

Jamesr0012 said:

I've tried hammering it out with heat but I didn't get anywhere. Think I will? Should I heat the carrier or just the whole thing?

I apply the heat to the carrier, I want that to expand first/more. Not sure if that is the proper way but it works for me. You can also try a cycle of heat and rapid cooling and reheat.

Also what are you using as freeing oil? WD is ok but not the best at freeing, its primary purpose is water displacement, try a dedicated penetrating/freeing oil.

Do you have access to a welder, to weld on a nut or bolt?

[Krikkit]

I'd strip it down to remove the hub from the vehicle then you can attack it on the bench - 2 minutes with a press and that'll be sorted. Save yourself the agony.

[Jamesr0012]

Yeah I've applied heat and then wd to cool. I don't have access to a welder. Heated it then hit with drift and still nothing. I can't believe it's so stuck, I can't get my head round it

[4x4Tyke]

Steering ball joint typically have a chamfer, I assume you are not working against that?

We are about the edge of my experience here, I'd be ringing around mates to beg access to portable welder and more experienced mates. On occasions I've struggled for hours and had them free things up in minutes with good technique.

[Jamesr0012]

Yeah it's the edge of my abilities too. I've made a breakthrough in that I've managed to get a hole right through now. Last resort is I file it down I guess. Cheers for your help. I've rang every mate and asked every mechanic I know and mostly the reaction was 'you're knackered'. Worst thing is I've made it difficult for myself, literally punching myself because of that more than anything.

[CoolHands]

new hub. save the agro.

[SHutchinson]

I just want to check something basic, but, you are hammering it up from the bottom aren't you? You know, because of the taper? I'm sure you are, but it's always best to check we've got the basics covered.

[Jamesr0012]

I'm not hammering from the bottom, but these have the taper and ball at the bottom and the screw on the top. Cheers though, i wish it was as simple as me hammering the wrong way.

Managed to drill right through with a 7mm bit so hopefully it might come out with some hammering soon.

[Krikkit]

Not sure if you've cracked it, but if you managed to get through with a bit keep enlarging as much as you can, once you get close to the outer diameter you'll be able to chip it out.

FWIW I always use a ball joint splitter like this one on these now, after I had the same trouble: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-13914-Capacity-Joi...

[Davie]

Many moons ago, I was told by an old mechanic at a job to never try and hammer it out in such situations as the blows can cause the remaining section to "mushroom" as it were and wedge in even harder. Same applies to none snapped taper joints. The advice was to use two hammers or a hefty drift, one on either side of the carrier, one held against the opposite side and the other to hit hard and the and the shock would spring the tamper out. In theory. So yes, I'd say hammering the tamper up / down would be a struggle, drilling it out or plenty heat to expand the hub then one good hit. Repeated battering will potentially just distort it, wedging it even tighter?

[steveo3002]

think id take off the hub and see if a local engineering firm can roar it out for some cash