Overheating Crossflow...
Discussion
Hi Y'all.
Has anyone got any ideas regarding an overheating problem with my Geep???
Its a 1.6 Crossflow. It idles like a sack of **** but runs well on the road. The rolling road session it recently had suggests that a mild cam may have been fitted causing the lumpy idle, as at idle the hydrocarbons were high which is another indication.
I have given it an engine service, a new thermostat, new waterpump & flushed out the cooling system to check for flow.
It runs on high octane unleaded - I don't know the history of the engine but as the head is a different colour to the block - it has obviously been off at some stage & may have had the valve seats done.
The trouble is it runs very hot - on a motorway run hotter still causing the electric fan to kick in.
There is no signs of losing coolant into the oil or other indicators of head gasket failure - however, as i've checked everything on the outside - the inside is the next step (after Stoneleigh - its there or bust!)
The passage of air to the rad is clear - the two big spotlights on the bullbar have been taken off with no effect.
Any ideas???
Swizz...
Has anyone got any ideas regarding an overheating problem with my Geep???
Its a 1.6 Crossflow. It idles like a sack of **** but runs well on the road. The rolling road session it recently had suggests that a mild cam may have been fitted causing the lumpy idle, as at idle the hydrocarbons were high which is another indication.
I have given it an engine service, a new thermostat, new waterpump & flushed out the cooling system to check for flow.
It runs on high octane unleaded - I don't know the history of the engine but as the head is a different colour to the block - it has obviously been off at some stage & may have had the valve seats done.
The trouble is it runs very hot - on a motorway run hotter still causing the electric fan to kick in.
There is no signs of losing coolant into the oil or other indicators of head gasket failure - however, as i've checked everything on the outside - the inside is the next step (after Stoneleigh - its there or bust!)
The passage of air to the rad is clear - the two big spotlights on the bullbar have been taken off with no effect.
Any ideas???
Swizz...
The rad appears to be standard - although i've nothing nearby to compare it with.
I've removed the thermostat (it was 88 degrees) to rule it out & its just the same - just takes longer to overheat!
Re: the rad - I did wonder whether the rad wouldn't now be big enough as an electric fan has been fitted - but the mechanical fan is redundant when driving anyway, passing air cooling the rad' so kinda ruled that one out.
Swizz...
I've removed the thermostat (it was 88 degrees) to rule it out & its just the same - just takes longer to overheat!
Re: the rad - I did wonder whether the rad wouldn't now be big enough as an electric fan has been fitted - but the mechanical fan is redundant when driving anyway, passing air cooling the rad' so kinda ruled that one out.
Swizz...
The worst overheating I've ever experienced on a Ford four pot was caused by low oil rather than low water !!!
May I suggest you overfill the sump by 500ml and see if it still overheats.
You could have generated a monumental air lock whilst removing the thermostat- is your pressure cap at the highest point of the system??? If it's not, loosen the hose clip at the highest point and keep it loose until water comes out whilst the engine is warming up.
When it overheats, are any places on the engine/rad/heater/hoses still cold- don't burn yourself, if you're worried get a grown-up to help out!!!
Timing OK??? Fuelling OK- is the exhaust pipe a decent grey/black colour (white if the mixture is too weak).
Cheers
Ian
>> Edited by IanA on Thursday 21st April 22:41
May I suggest you overfill the sump by 500ml and see if it still overheats.
You could have generated a monumental air lock whilst removing the thermostat- is your pressure cap at the highest point of the system??? If it's not, loosen the hose clip at the highest point and keep it loose until water comes out whilst the engine is warming up.
When it overheats, are any places on the engine/rad/heater/hoses still cold- don't burn yourself, if you're worried get a grown-up to help out!!!
Timing OK??? Fuelling OK- is the exhaust pipe a decent grey/black colour (white if the mixture is too weak).
Cheers
Ian
>> Edited by IanA on Thursday 21st April 22:41
could be i.6 engine with a 1.3 [or even 1.1?] radiator
there used to be pics in the serk radiator book - but whether they would cover escort bits i dont know.
i had a cortina years ago tuned 1,6 xflow on a 1,3 rad any partial blockage of the grille at all and it would overheat [in my case deatrace 2000 style teeth on the grille covering 1 small hole in 3 of the top and bottom rows of holes of the grille] so in my case i knew the cooling was marginal if it is wrong rad then time a bit of blocking of the core jagos usually stand for periods of time and general aging may have reduced it enough to not have enough cooling capacity. but i'd definately check for air locks is the heater mounted high up?
on tuned minis ive seen additional heater matrix's incorperated into the cooling system under the bonnet to increase cooling capacity and surface area
lumpy idles and hot cams tend to have other mods done to them maybe bored to 1.7 with higher compression pistons which would need more cooling
ians point is good is the dipstick correct?
next oil fill put the correct number of litres in the sump then check dipstick
good luck!!
there used to be pics in the serk radiator book - but whether they would cover escort bits i dont know.
i had a cortina years ago tuned 1,6 xflow on a 1,3 rad any partial blockage of the grille at all and it would overheat [in my case deatrace 2000 style teeth on the grille covering 1 small hole in 3 of the top and bottom rows of holes of the grille] so in my case i knew the cooling was marginal if it is wrong rad then time a bit of blocking of the core jagos usually stand for periods of time and general aging may have reduced it enough to not have enough cooling capacity. but i'd definately check for air locks is the heater mounted high up?
on tuned minis ive seen additional heater matrix's incorperated into the cooling system under the bonnet to increase cooling capacity and surface area
lumpy idles and hot cams tend to have other mods done to them maybe bored to 1.7 with higher compression pistons which would need more cooling
ians point is good is the dipstick correct?
next oil fill put the correct number of litres in the sump then check dipstick
good luck!!
Cheers everyone.
I've taken the heater out the circuit when the system was drained also at its going to be replaced.
I'll check all the other stuff along the way.
Flaming crossflows! The rad is a possibility. For all I know it might have been a 1.3 escort to start with & was built as jago with the 1.6???
Swizz...
I've taken the heater out the circuit when the system was drained also at its going to be replaced.
I'll check all the other stuff along the way.
Flaming crossflows! The rad is a possibility. For all I know it might have been a 1.3 escort to start with & was built as jago with the 1.6???
Swizz...
rads are a tricky one on this one!! i know what u are sayin is correct but on the other hand i have 2 geeps, one with a 1.6x-flow and the other 1.6pinto. both are running on a 1.3x-flow rad and ive neva had any overheating probs with either!!sounds to me like a air block.....maybe even a blown headgasket???? as ian stated, check the colour and smell or ur exuast fume's....only dont go getting urself high on fume's!! is it loosing water anywhere? does it pressurise when u leave the water cap off, i.e spit water out everywhere when hot??
Mal
>> Edited by mal666 on Friday 22 April 14:39
Mal
>> Edited by mal666 on Friday 22 April 14:39
An arsey one this!
I'm gonna recheck the timing this week & replace the top hose. The rad seems closer to the engine than on an escort - the hose is permenantly kinked which cannot help.
A guy on the Locustbuilders Forum suggested also that the xflow should always be mounted slightly 'nose-up' as they can be a bugger for airlocks at the back of the head.
Who knows! Can't be the head though. No coolant loss or signs of pressurising. Even took the plugs out yesterday - all an even rusty brown colour.
Swizz...
I'm gonna recheck the timing this week & replace the top hose. The rad seems closer to the engine than on an escort - the hose is permenantly kinked which cannot help.
A guy on the Locustbuilders Forum suggested also that the xflow should always be mounted slightly 'nose-up' as they can be a bugger for airlocks at the back of the head.
Who knows! Can't be the head though. No coolant loss or signs of pressurising. Even took the plugs out yesterday - all an even rusty brown colour.
Swizz...
Re nose-up need for Kent Engines.
This phenomena has been widely researched by members of the Dutton Owners Club. If the engine is level or worse still nose down an air bubble forms in the waterways at the back of the head. As the engine gets hot the bubble expands creating a larger space devoid of coolant.
You could try filling the rad parked facing up on a steep hill with the engine running. Finally when filled, with the rad cap screwed on ease the clips on the heater hoses and see if that bleeds some air.
If this effects a 'cure' - you will need to shim the engine mounts - if memory serves me right the engine should be 5 degrees nose up.
jon
This phenomena has been widely researched by members of the Dutton Owners Club. If the engine is level or worse still nose down an air bubble forms in the waterways at the back of the head. As the engine gets hot the bubble expands creating a larger space devoid of coolant.
You could try filling the rad parked facing up on a steep hill with the engine running. Finally when filled, with the rad cap screwed on ease the clips on the heater hoses and see if that bleeds some air.
If this effects a 'cure' - you will need to shim the engine mounts - if memory serves me right the engine should be 5 degrees nose up.
jon
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