How much can a bike battery take?
How much can a bike battery take?
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Discussion

bilhound

Original Poster:

79 posts

117 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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I currently have aftermarket heated grips, e-scottoiler, gipro and a sat nav all hard-wired into the bike (2015 Z1000sx). Thinking of adding a phone mount/charger from ultimateaddons too.

Is the battery likely to spit feathers as a result or will it be unphased by the extra load? Had zero battery issues so far but I'm not an expert so don't know if I'm close to the threshold or not.

The battery is an upgrade from standard - can't remember exactly what it is (will have a look this evening if required). It is on an optimizer the majority of the time.

Any advice or tips greatly appreciated.

ianrb

1,644 posts

171 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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What's the alternator output?

bilhound

Original Poster:

79 posts

117 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
ianrb said:
What's the alternator output?
Lost me. Is this something that I need to test with a multimeter or is it a unit of measure that can be found in the manual?

ETA: (maybe this should be in the friendly dumb bike q's thread...)

ianrb

1,644 posts

171 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
It should be in your bike's manual/hand book.

Subtract to total load, i.e. the number of watts drawn by all the accessories you want to use, plus the power (number of watts) used by the bikes ignition system etc, from the alternator output. If you are left with a positive number you should be OK, but if it's negative then you will drain the battery.

bilhound

Original Poster:

79 posts

117 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
ianrb said:
It should be in your bike's manual/hand book.

Subtract to total load, i.e. the number of watts drawn by all the accessories you want to use, plus the power (number of watts) used by the bikes ignition system etc, from the alternator output. If you are left with a positive number you should be OK, but if it's negative then you will drain the battery.
Excellent - thankyou very much for this! Will get the calculator out tonight teacher

Dog Star

17,645 posts

199 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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The only thing on there that draws any meaningful current are the heated grips, and that will be absolutely fine on your bike.

You only need really to start worrying about all this when you (and maybe your pillion) are wearing heated jackets, with heated gloves and a set of aftermarket lights.

II've a 2017 R1 and it's got heated grips - I *think* I should be ok with a heated waistcoat too.

This is useful (if it has your bike model in there)
http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-vehicle/yamaha/201...


Fort Jefferson

8,237 posts

253 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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Don't forget if you fit a USB charge point, it will drain your battery even when you're not using it. You need to put an inline switch, or connect it to a supply that go's off with the ignition.

Dog Star

17,645 posts

199 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
Fort Jefferson said:
Don't forget if you fit a USB charge point, it will drain your battery even when you're not using it. You need to put an inline switch, or connect it to a supply that go's off with the ignition.
Or better still fit a relay so you aren't bazzing several amps through a tiny thin wire that is meant for an LED tail light. Some of the clueless bodgery I see in relation to bike accessories amazes me.

bilhound

Original Poster:

79 posts

117 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
Dog Star said:
Or better still fit a relay so you aren't bazzing several amps through a tiny thin wire that is meant for an LED tail light. Some of the clueless bodgery I see in relation to bike accessories amazes me.
This is something I'm interested in doing but haven't got a clue where to start. Any links to tips for fitting a relay?

I bought the bike with all the above pre-installed by the previous owner, I fitted a trickle charger cable (just) and saw that the battery already seemed a bit clogged with the amount of wires attached to the terminals.

Krikkit

27,941 posts

212 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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This is quite a good explanation: http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html

You might already have one fitted, depending how the other accessories have been done. I'd start first by taking a look how it's all wired in - personally I'd split it into two circuits: 1) heated grips, 2) everything else

Things like sat-nav/phones don't use much power (a couple of amps) so a 20A relay wired in separately gives you quite a bit of capacity to play with.

The GIPro and the Scottoiler will use microscopic amounts of power, I'd be shocked if they took 0.5A combined tbh.

Edited by Krikkit on Wednesday 28th February 14:10

supercommuter

2,169 posts

133 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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I run a heated jacket and full chat, heated grips and phone charger. No problems here

CaptainSlow

13,179 posts

243 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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Fort Jefferson said:
Don't forget if you fit a USB charge point, it will drain your battery even when you're not using it. You need to put an inline switch, or connect it to a supply that go's off with the ignition.
Why is that? I've just bought one that I plan to wire direct to the battery (via inline fuse).

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

286 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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CaptainSlow said:
Fort Jefferson said:
Don't forget if you fit a USB charge point, it will drain your battery even when you're not using it. You need to put an inline switch, or connect it to a supply that go's off with the ignition.
Why is that? I've just bought one that I plan to wire direct to the battery (via inline fuse).
It's just the nature of the beast. A USB charge point includes a small DC-DC converter that will draw some quiescent current even with nothing plugged into it, so if directly connected to the battery it will be discharging the battery when the engine is not running. If you have something plugged into it then it will be drawing even more power.

If you are using the bike daily it may not be not too much of a problem, provided you don't leave your sat nav etc. plugged in. If you leave the bike for a couple of weeks then you are quite likely to come back to a dead battery.

supercommuter

2,169 posts

133 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
Mr2Mike said:
CaptainSlow said:
Fort Jefferson said:
Don't forget if you fit a USB charge point, it will drain your battery even when you're not using it. You need to put an inline switch, or connect it to a supply that go's off with the ignition.
Why is that? I've just bought one that I plan to wire direct to the battery (via inline fuse).
It's just the nature of the beast. A USB charge point includes a small DC-DC converter that will draw some quiescent current even with nothing plugged into it, so if directly connected to the battery it will be discharging the battery when the engine is not running. If you have something plugged into it then it will be drawing even more power.

If you are using the bike daily it may not be not too much of a problem, provided you don't leave your sat nav etc. plugged in. If you leave the bike for a couple of weeks then you are quite likely to come back to a dead battery.
Hmm - I have one fitted with an inline fuse. Left my bike for 3 weeks and it fired not issues, the drain must be tiny;

Krikkit

27,941 posts

212 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
The better the quality of the converter (generally), the lower the current draw while off. I would still go for an relayed, switching supply just for peace of mind.

bilhound

Original Poster:

79 posts

117 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
quotequote all
Managed to get a picture of under the seat - battery is in good health according to trickle charger, definitely aftermarket.

The black wire (negative) and the black wire with the red crimp (positive) is my input (the trickle charger).

The red wire off the positive appears to go to an inline fuse. There's a jumble of red/black cabling thats been bundled up and cable tied together, that's what is coming off the negative with the red crimp. Could this be a relay as mentioned in previous posts? Reason being that there simply aren't enough wires direct from the battery for all the accessories!

I think all the accessories were fitted by the dealer before the original owner even picked it up from the dealership.

One cable that I can't figure out - at the back of the seat (top of the image) there's a bundle of black cable with one end looking like a USB, any ideas?


ccr32

1,984 posts

249 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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bilhound said:
Managed to get a picture of under the seat - battery is in good health according to trickle charger, definitely aftermarket.
I hope you're using a Lithium Ion compatible trickle charger... As I think that's what you've got in there (unless Shido also do lead acid batteries?)

bilhound said:
One cable that I can't figure out - at the back of the seat (top of the image) there's a bundle of black cable with one end looking like a USB, any ideas?
That'll be a USB charger (for your phone, sat nav, etc), then smile

myvision

2,132 posts

167 months

Wednesday 28th February 2018
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Any pictures of the black thing with the lid off it?
Looks like a usb though.

bilhound

Original Poster:

79 posts

117 months

Thursday 1st March 2018
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ccr32 said:
That'll be a USB charger (for your phone, sat nav, etc), then smile
Yup - so it is. Plugged it into phone, ignition on - phone lights up! Just need to find a way to route a cable up to the front and a suitable dock for the phone.

That solves this mystery then. Wound up with the cable is a 3.5mm headphone jack - will do some more investigative works with that this evening.

Cheers all!

Krikkit

27,941 posts

212 months

Thursday 1st March 2018
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Good result - looks like someone's done the same as you were thinking originally, just not used the USB.

If you're routing it up to the bars then it'd be worth getting a waterproof cover for it - it's only 5V so won't short out in normal water, but it'll still corrode.