New commuter - stick or twist?
Discussion
I use my motorbike purely to commute into the City of London, it's primarily a financial decision and a tool to do a job but being a petrolhead I'm easily swayed. At home the bike lives in the garage but is left in on-street parking for the duration of each work day.
I've currently got a Cat C 2003 CBR600F, mechanically ok but needs a chain and a number of random (potentially MOT violating) jobs doing - value <£1k.
Current cost to insure of £420pa and I get 9 commuting journeys (each trip is 11 miles) from a tank of fuel which costs ~£17. Has had a recent new tyre but is due another service and likely a chain/sprocket this summer. The issues are that the headlight shines at the tree tops, every panel is damaged, indicators held on by cable ties, minor oil leak, slightly warped front disc, non-functional speedo etc. Has ~30k miles (plus another 6k or so that haven't registered owing to the broken speedo).
I do like the bike, it's ability to fit through gaps that my shoulders can, the speed (110bhp is more than enough coming from a 125cc bike) but not it's low speed manoeuvrability, e.g. no way I would pass a MOD1 turn in the road test on it without some difficulty which when changing lanes in traffic between cars can be an issue. If it wasn't for the MOT next month being touch and go or Sadiq banning it from next year I wouldn't be considering a change.
I have however spotted a potential replacement.
NC750X, 2016, manual, Cat N write off, 12k miles. Cost is likely to be around £3k but should get double the fuel consumption but at a 50% increase in insurance cost - why I don't know....
This bike shouldn't give an MOT worry for a good few years, is low emission zone compliant but is an initial net £2k+ outlay and I'm worried that 55bhp isn't enough.
What would you do - stick or twist?
I've currently got a Cat C 2003 CBR600F, mechanically ok but needs a chain and a number of random (potentially MOT violating) jobs doing - value <£1k.
Current cost to insure of £420pa and I get 9 commuting journeys (each trip is 11 miles) from a tank of fuel which costs ~£17. Has had a recent new tyre but is due another service and likely a chain/sprocket this summer. The issues are that the headlight shines at the tree tops, every panel is damaged, indicators held on by cable ties, minor oil leak, slightly warped front disc, non-functional speedo etc. Has ~30k miles (plus another 6k or so that haven't registered owing to the broken speedo).
I do like the bike, it's ability to fit through gaps that my shoulders can, the speed (110bhp is more than enough coming from a 125cc bike) but not it's low speed manoeuvrability, e.g. no way I would pass a MOD1 turn in the road test on it without some difficulty which when changing lanes in traffic between cars can be an issue. If it wasn't for the MOT next month being touch and go or Sadiq banning it from next year I wouldn't be considering a change.
I have however spotted a potential replacement.
NC750X, 2016, manual, Cat N write off, 12k miles. Cost is likely to be around £3k but should get double the fuel consumption but at a 50% increase in insurance cost - why I don't know....
This bike shouldn't give an MOT worry for a good few years, is low emission zone compliant but is an initial net £2k+ outlay and I'm worried that 55bhp isn't enough.
What would you do - stick or twist?
For me 55hp definitely wouldn’t be enough coming from a bike with double that - even for commuting.
I once thought I’d save some money by trading in a CB900 Hornet for a CB500 but the latter only lasted a month. Obviously trickling through heavy traffic there’s no difference but in faster traffic I was really frustrated by not being able to go for overtakes which I would previously not had a second thought about.
I once thought I’d save some money by trading in a CB900 Hornet for a CB500 but the latter only lasted a month. Obviously trickling through heavy traffic there’s no difference but in faster traffic I was really frustrated by not being able to go for overtakes which I would previously not had a second thought about.
Stick!
You have a bike that owes you nothing near enough and is worthless to anyone but yourself really. Having just done both sprockets and the chain on a 2000 CBR600F its a fairly easy job. It took me about 2 hours having never done it before. Equally things like discs are easy to change yourself
I would run your current bike into the ground first and then twist.
If you twist now what are you going to do with the current bike? You may as well ride it until it properly dies.
You have a bike that owes you nothing near enough and is worthless to anyone but yourself really. Having just done both sprockets and the chain on a 2000 CBR600F its a fairly easy job. It took me about 2 hours having never done it before. Equally things like discs are easy to change yourself
I would run your current bike into the ground first and then twist.
If you twist now what are you going to do with the current bike? You may as well ride it until it properly dies.
If you're happy doing some mechanicing yourself, chain, sprocket and brake disks are pretty easy jobs to do yourself if you buy a chain tool and have a dremmel or a grinder to get the old chain off. Unless it's actually got a broken mount it should be pretty easy to adjust the headlight, and most minor oil leaks are just a gasket (cost me about a fiver for a new clutch cover gasket when the wifes bike was leaking a last year). I'd have thought damaged panels and cable ties are an advantage if parking in London as it should deter some of the thieves.
So personally I'd stick, but find an empty car park one Sunday afternoon and practice your low speed manoeuvres, it's something everyone hates when learning but is a really useful skill and should be able to do the Mod1 type manoeuvres on pretty much any bike.
So personally I'd stick, but find an empty car park one Sunday afternoon and practice your low speed manoeuvres, it's something everyone hates when learning but is a really useful skill and should be able to do the Mod1 type manoeuvres on pretty much any bike.
Thanks all - think i'll give the NC a miss then and hope mine makes it through the MOT without too much issue
The headlight seems to be a screw that's come loose although it somehow got through last year's test I suspect it was because it was only in for test to officalise the signing of a rectification notice. I typically do all the jobs myself so fixing all but the headlight and speedo is no issue (I have memorised the RPM/gear speeds though).
I've got no real issue manoeuvring the bike, I was meaning as an example to get between/around stationary traffic on the commute where the bar lock to lock isn't enough to get around some gaps the old CBR/CBF 125's could - my turn in the road example is outside my garage - the distance between 2 garage doors which is likely a little tighter.
The headlight seems to be a screw that's come loose although it somehow got through last year's test I suspect it was because it was only in for test to officalise the signing of a rectification notice. I typically do all the jobs myself so fixing all but the headlight and speedo is no issue (I have memorised the RPM/gear speeds though).
I've got no real issue manoeuvring the bike, I was meaning as an example to get between/around stationary traffic on the commute where the bar lock to lock isn't enough to get around some gaps the old CBR/CBF 125's could - my turn in the road example is outside my garage - the distance between 2 garage doors which is likely a little tighter.
Get rid imo. Get it to pass the MOT and then change it when it's insurance renewal time. Fuel is barely an issue for your mileage but manoeuvrability is. I've no idea what is considered an acceptable bike for Sadiq's evil plans to recommend another bike in all honesty. Is power really that important for what seems to be strictly city/commuter riding?
Thought you fixed the leak?
Thought you fixed the leak?
Cbull said:
Get rid imo. Get it to pass the MOT and then change it when it's insurance renewal time. Fuel is barely an issue for your mileage but manoeuvrability is. I've no idea what is considered an acceptable bike for Sadiq's evil plans to recommend another bike in all honesty. Is power really that important for what seems to be strictly city/commuter riding?
Thought you fixed the leak?
Fair - Insurance is January 19 now - leak 99% fixed, went from 1/2 lire a week down to the tiniest dribble/weep now so good enough for meThought you fixed the leak?
Compliant is Euro 3 so post '07, being an '03 mine doesn't quite cut it i don't think.
Get you on power - I'm City - Beckenham so <40mph limits the whole way - just don't know whether I'll still have the get you out of trouble/nip past this one option with 55bhp
I'd get the new bike too, it should require minimal maintenance for quite some time and should in theory not go wrong, sounds like the CBR is ready to be retired or moved on, the power difference will make no difference for commuting and will probably be just as fast real world as a cbr6 doesn't do much anyway until 10k rpm anywhere whereas the NC is all about midrange power and will be much more relaxing to ride, combined with a more upright riding position and probably much better manoeuvrability it would be a no-brainer for me.
Edited by Jazoli on Thursday 15th March 14:56
kiethton said:
Get you on power - I'm City - Beckenham so <40mph limits the whole way - just don't know whether I'll still have the get you out of trouble/nip past this one option with 55bhp
Even if you're a fat bloke and you and the bike have a total weight of 300kg, that's still around 180bhp/tonne, similar to a BMW 335i...I'd get your CBR sorted - cost peanuts. And if every panel is buggered - so what? From what I've heard of That London this is exactly the sort of bike you need as nobody will steal it and you won't stand out.
I'm at a loss as to how an MOT can be "touch and go" - it's only a motorbike, there's not a right lot to test on them and almost all of what they do test is stuff you'd really want to be spot-on anyway. Get some new C&S, get on ebay and get some s/h indicators, headlight brackets etc and get your spanners out. Another year or so of cheap, low-theft-risk commuting. With the money saved go an buy yourself a "fun" bike; you can get something decent for 2K.
I'm at a loss as to how an MOT can be "touch and go" - it's only a motorbike, there's not a right lot to test on them and almost all of what they do test is stuff you'd really want to be spot-on anyway. Get some new C&S, get on ebay and get some s/h indicators, headlight brackets etc and get your spanners out. Another year or so of cheap, low-theft-risk commuting. With the money saved go an buy yourself a "fun" bike; you can get something decent for 2K.
I’d get rid of your current bike whilst it still has some value to someone local to you. Once the ban kicks in then the bike is worthless other than those willing to travel to buy it and I can’t see that being many people.
Not sure I’d rush out and get the particular bike you’re looking at, but you will need something that looks s
t to stop it getting stolen, or at least delay it happening and the NC700 certainly ticks that box.
Not sure I’d rush out and get the particular bike you’re looking at, but you will need something that looks s
t to stop it getting stolen, or at least delay it happening and the NC700 certainly ticks that box. Fair - the one which will impact me is from 8 April 2019 - the ULEZ as I go into Moorgate/Bank each day: https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emissio...
Very tempted to wait on the extra year's depreciation of post '07 bikes and see what's around then - hopefully there won't be too much of an issue
Headight - hopefully ok but fixable
Chain - service part so will be swapped if necessary
Speedo - not tested?
Very tempted to wait on the extra year's depreciation of post '07 bikes and see what's around then - hopefully there won't be too much of an issue
Headight - hopefully ok but fixable
Chain - service part so will be swapped if necessary
Speedo - not tested?
2007 bikes will increase in value as will every other newer bike as a direct result. There is likely to be a significant increase in demand from people stuck with bikes dated 2006 and older who all have to get rid of theirs too.
2007 and newer. Demand will outstrip supply, prices will rise in the short term, until demand drops off.
2006 and older. Supply will outstrip demand, prices will fall and stay low as demand will never increase.
Rinse and repeat when the ban goes to Euro 4 and so on every x year cycle.
There’s a bit of profit to be made here by dealers in the SE offloading their stock outside the SE, whilst bringing stock aged 2007-09 into the SE and artificially inflating prices there. Not huge profit, but an opportunity to be exploited.
2007 and newer. Demand will outstrip supply, prices will rise in the short term, until demand drops off.
2006 and older. Supply will outstrip demand, prices will fall and stay low as demand will never increase.
Rinse and repeat when the ban goes to Euro 4 and so on every x year cycle.
There’s a bit of profit to be made here by dealers in the SE offloading their stock outside the SE, whilst bringing stock aged 2007-09 into the SE and artificially inflating prices there. Not huge profit, but an opportunity to be exploited.
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