Discussion
So whilst I'm waiting for my refurbished bilsteins to come back I decided to tackle my aircon. I've already replaced the receiver/dryer located on the lower left hand side in front of the radiator. That was a bit fiddly but not too bad. The trick was finding where the Tx valve was located. I had thought I might have to take the dash out but apparently it was located behind a panel on the passenger side engine compartment. After drilling out the rivets I found it, together with half a tree and a couple of bird wings... not OEM!
It's covered in a thick black tar like substance so I've started peeling it off, on the Tx valve there is a wire that ends in a coil and I have no idea where it goes... maybe I'll find out tomorrow.
It's covered in a thick black tar like substance so I've started peeling it off, on the Tx valve there is a wire that ends in a coil and I have no idea where it goes... maybe I'll find out tomorrow.
Edited by Nzchim on Saturday 17th March 09:28
Nzchim said:
So whilst I'm waiting for my refurbished bilsteins to come back I decided to tackle my aircon. I've already replaced the receiver/dryer located on the lower left hand side in front of the radiator. That was a bit fiddly but not too bad. The trick was finding where the Tx valve was located. I had thought I might have to take the dash out but apparently it was located behind a panel on the passenger side engine compartment. After drilling out the rivets I found it, together with half a tree and a couple of bird wings... not OEM!
It's covered in a thick black tar like substance so I've started peeling it off, on the Tx valve there is a wire that ends in a coil and I have no idea where it goes... maybe I'll find out tomorrow.
The sticky foam is insulation. Why are you removing it? if you peel it off you will need to buy more to replace it.It's covered in a thick black tar like substance so I've started peeling it off, on the Tx valve there is a wire that ends in a coil and I have no idea where it goes... maybe I'll find out tomorrow.
When you say you have found a wire are you referring to the capillary pipe (thin copper pipe)? If so then this will likely terminate as a bulbous end fitted into the outlet from the evaporator to sense the air temp and regulate the coolant flow.
I fear you may have to replace the dryer again as you are supposed to keep them sealed until fitted and the system charged straight away. If the system was open to atmosphere then the dryer will now be filling itself with moisture from the air filled pipework.
Steve
I retrofitted ac to mine and as was just said all that gunk covers the pipes behind the evaporator, so no point in taking it off.
I don't recall any wires there either, just the copper pipe under the heater box that goes towards the passenger seat and small wired rheostat that cuts the ac off if it ices up.
I had fitted brand new pressure hoses throughout as I understand those that TVR fitted on their oem system were badly crimped and likely to leak.
This is mostly why those who are lucky to have factory ac complain about how crap it is that it doesn't work. It does when there is refrigerant in it and quite well too.
If I was to 'refresh' an existing system, the first thing I would do is replace all the hoses.
I don't recall any wires there either, just the copper pipe under the heater box that goes towards the passenger seat and small wired rheostat that cuts the ac off if it ices up.
I had fitted brand new pressure hoses throughout as I understand those that TVR fitted on their oem system were badly crimped and likely to leak.
This is mostly why those who are lucky to have factory ac complain about how crap it is that it doesn't work. It does when there is refrigerant in it and quite well too.
If I was to 'refresh' an existing system, the first thing I would do is replace all the hoses.
Thanks, I'm having to peel off the insulation to be able to remove the Tx valve. My local a/c guy reckoned the valve was faulty. Wasn't aware of the receiver/dryer issue so that could be a pain. I'll take a pic of the new valve so I can better explain the copper wire, which ends in a coil, there is very limited visibility/access to where it goes.
I've just replaced the TXV recently, you have to remove all the black insulating tape that covers the TXV to be able to remove it (2 nuts and sensing bulb clamped to the evap outlet pipe). Its tricky as there is not a lot of access room. Later model TVRs also had a panel riveted in the wheel arch over an access hole, to give better access to the TXV and evap hose connection. I had to make my own access hole as getting the sensing bulb clamp on or insulating tape on is not easy in the space provided. Picture attached from another thread of wheel arch access.
That's a useful flap, I wish I had seen that on the later cars, would have cut one out as working just from the hole in the top was quite hard.
I had dropped the whole box to be honest as I was replacing a normal heater box with another one from another car that had an evaporator on it.
Can't say it was one of those jobs I enjoyed doing, the hardest part was getting a seal around the bit where the box goes into the fan box, ended up stuffing loads of foam between all the edges of the box and the body, that worked!
Out of interest, how does your box connect to the centre vents, I had to use the thick hose that went across the back of the engine that would normally serve air to the drivers footwell and connected a hose to that and bent it round and out under the steering wheel.
I want to make up a new pipe and tee it between the drivers right hand side and the centre vents, but I also have that second fan that brings fresh air into just the drivers side. I'm thinking of teeing into that pipe too but not sure if the main fan will blow out through the second fan and will cause a reduction in aire pressure. I could fit a valve I suppose but there is not a lot of space.
On the passenger side it is surprising how much air you get under the box through that round vent compared to the side vent on the passenger side, I'm also looking to improve that too.
Otherwise my retrofitted system works and I get freezing air into the car. Considering that there is not a lot of info on here about the system, I had to cobble it together from snippets I found here and there. It is though, a very basic system and now I feel I could easily retrofit it again knowing what I do now.
I had dropped the whole box to be honest as I was replacing a normal heater box with another one from another car that had an evaporator on it.
Can't say it was one of those jobs I enjoyed doing, the hardest part was getting a seal around the bit where the box goes into the fan box, ended up stuffing loads of foam between all the edges of the box and the body, that worked!
Out of interest, how does your box connect to the centre vents, I had to use the thick hose that went across the back of the engine that would normally serve air to the drivers footwell and connected a hose to that and bent it round and out under the steering wheel.
I want to make up a new pipe and tee it between the drivers right hand side and the centre vents, but I also have that second fan that brings fresh air into just the drivers side. I'm thinking of teeing into that pipe too but not sure if the main fan will blow out through the second fan and will cause a reduction in aire pressure. I could fit a valve I suppose but there is not a lot of space.
On the passenger side it is surprising how much air you get under the box through that round vent compared to the side vent on the passenger side, I'm also looking to improve that too.
Otherwise my retrofitted system works and I get freezing air into the car. Considering that there is not a lot of info on here about the system, I had to cobble it together from snippets I found here and there. It is though, a very basic system and now I feel I could easily retrofit it again knowing what I do now.
Edited by jazzdude on Sunday 18th March 05:09
jazz,
the early cars had the heater box ventilation hose running behind the engine. Later models this was replaced by a panel that was attached to the bulkhead, effectively a double skinned bulk head that allowed air to travel between the heater box and the driver foot well vent. What this meant was TVR could drill through the bulk head behind the dash and access this heated or cold air and pipe it into the centre vents, that's how mine is. One centre vent supplies air from the heater box (hot or cold), my other centre vent fresh air only comes from an auxillary fan in drivers side wing. The ventilation arrangements have changed several times over the years.
Couple of pictures attached for Griffith arrangement to give you an idea, sure Chimaera will be similar.
the early cars had the heater box ventilation hose running behind the engine. Later models this was replaced by a panel that was attached to the bulkhead, effectively a double skinned bulk head that allowed air to travel between the heater box and the driver foot well vent. What this meant was TVR could drill through the bulk head behind the dash and access this heated or cold air and pipe it into the centre vents, that's how mine is. One centre vent supplies air from the heater box (hot or cold), my other centre vent fresh air only comes from an auxillary fan in drivers side wing. The ventilation arrangements have changed several times over the years.
Couple of pictures attached for Griffith arrangement to give you an idea, sure Chimaera will be similar.
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