Discussion
I am thinking about having a shot at detailing the wife’s Alfa. If it turns out ok I will then do my cars.
Just need some help on The correct steps, I currently wash the cars using washing mitts and 2 buckets.
I then use autoglym srp and then meguirs carnuba wax.
What I would like to know is how to do it properly, I’ve got a pressure washer, snow foam bottle and some demon snow foam but never used them.
I will buy a clay bar, but what else do I need, and would the correct steps be:
Rinse car with water
Snow foam the car ( need to figure out how)
Do I then rinse the foam off?
Wash car using the 2 buckets
Presume I Clay before drying? How do I clay?
Dry car - what shall I use, my normal chamois?
Apply autoglym srp
Apply meguirs wax
Is the wax enough to seal everything or have I missed a step.
I will buy a clay bar but confused as some come with something called detail spray.
Also been looking at wax, I’ve got some of the meguirs so if that is ok will use that, but confused as to whether the wax is the final step or if I need a glaze to seal it.
Anything else I’ve missed, will get some foam application pads for the srp and wax and some new microfibre cloths too.
Any beginner kits worth buying?
Just need some help on The correct steps, I currently wash the cars using washing mitts and 2 buckets.
I then use autoglym srp and then meguirs carnuba wax.
What I would like to know is how to do it properly, I’ve got a pressure washer, snow foam bottle and some demon snow foam but never used them.
I will buy a clay bar, but what else do I need, and would the correct steps be:
Rinse car with water
Snow foam the car ( need to figure out how)
Do I then rinse the foam off?
Wash car using the 2 buckets
Presume I Clay before drying? How do I clay?
Dry car - what shall I use, my normal chamois?
Apply autoglym srp
Apply meguirs wax
Is the wax enough to seal everything or have I missed a step.
I will buy a clay bar but confused as some come with something called detail spray.
Also been looking at wax, I’ve got some of the meguirs so if that is ok will use that, but confused as to whether the wax is the final step or if I need a glaze to seal it.
Anything else I’ve missed, will get some foam application pads for the srp and wax and some new microfibre cloths too.
Any beginner kits worth buying?
I would take a look at detailingworld.co.uk
Mix the shampoo thoroughly with the water, some people use a large balloon egg whisk, the water turns into a creamy foam.
When using the clay bar use a detailing spray, such as Meguiars. Keep working the clay so that a clean area is always to the car.
I dont use a chamois ever, there are some good drying towels, if you can avoid the drying process completely then that is better. Pleased that you didnt mention sponges, dont use them at all, perhaps for the inside of wheels when you remove them for a proper clean.
On microfibre cloths, I prefer the flat, smooth type rather than the mini-loop cloths for applying polish and wax, the best I have found and at a low price was from Lidl. For those car cleaners on a budget the Lidl multi surface polish can also be a very effective lubricant when using a clay bar.
If you are in a hard water area see if you can install a garden tub on a down pipe to collect rain water for the shampoo process.
There are some exotic and expensive products out there, you can spend thousands just on wax for example.
Mix the shampoo thoroughly with the water, some people use a large balloon egg whisk, the water turns into a creamy foam.
When using the clay bar use a detailing spray, such as Meguiars. Keep working the clay so that a clean area is always to the car.
I dont use a chamois ever, there are some good drying towels, if you can avoid the drying process completely then that is better. Pleased that you didnt mention sponges, dont use them at all, perhaps for the inside of wheels when you remove them for a proper clean.
On microfibre cloths, I prefer the flat, smooth type rather than the mini-loop cloths for applying polish and wax, the best I have found and at a low price was from Lidl. For those car cleaners on a budget the Lidl multi surface polish can also be a very effective lubricant when using a clay bar.
If you are in a hard water area see if you can install a garden tub on a down pipe to collect rain water for the shampoo process.
There are some exotic and expensive products out there, you can spend thousands just on wax for example.
Edited by Robbo 27 on Thursday 22 March 06:30
Worth looking here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&...
This is my routine along with some questions / suggestions for each step.
1. Snow Foam
What snow foam do you have?
I use Valet Pro Advanced Neutral mixed 200ml of snow foam to 800ml of water. Leave to sit for 5 minutes then rinse off
2. Rinse Car
3. 2 Bucket Wash
4. Dry
5. Tar Remover
I would recommend AutoSmart Tardis
6. Rinse
7. Dry
8. Fallout Remover
Smells disgusting but something like Iron X works a treat
9. Rinse
10. Dry
11. Clay
You can buy clay lube or mix some fairy liquid with water and stick it in a spray bottle. Do a bit, then work clay to get a clean bit Continue as needed.
Once you're at this stage you can either choose to re-wash the car to make sure all the products are off before a polish and wax or you can go straight into waxing. Up to you. Personally, I'd re-wash.
Glaze always comes before a wax. Detailing spray is a top up to wax. Sometimes they work well together, sometimes they don't.
Never use a chamois. Buy a drying towel. I'd recommend Kiln. Wash products and chemicals I'd recommend those above and also the Gyeon brand.
1. Snow Foam
What snow foam do you have?
I use Valet Pro Advanced Neutral mixed 200ml of snow foam to 800ml of water. Leave to sit for 5 minutes then rinse off
2. Rinse Car
3. 2 Bucket Wash
4. Dry
5. Tar Remover
I would recommend AutoSmart Tardis
6. Rinse
7. Dry
8. Fallout Remover
Smells disgusting but something like Iron X works a treat
9. Rinse
10. Dry
11. Clay
You can buy clay lube or mix some fairy liquid with water and stick it in a spray bottle. Do a bit, then work clay to get a clean bit Continue as needed.
Once you're at this stage you can either choose to re-wash the car to make sure all the products are off before a polish and wax or you can go straight into waxing. Up to you. Personally, I'd re-wash.
Glaze always comes before a wax. Detailing spray is a top up to wax. Sometimes they work well together, sometimes they don't.
Never use a chamois. Buy a drying towel. I'd recommend Kiln. Wash products and chemicals I'd recommend those above and also the Gyeon brand.
eezeh said:
It was my understanding that you shouldn't clay a car unless you are going to polish it afterwards as claying can put tiny scratches in the paint.
This. Claying is for the removal of contaminants (tar, metal filings etc) from the paint, so that a polishing pad has a clean surface on which to do its thing. Because the clay is moving those contaminants over the paintwork, they will mark it slightly - but it’s not a problem if polishing is to occur.
Also, auto glym SRP is technically a polish, but it’s not a great one, it’s more of an aggressive wax, really - if that’s all you’ve got, then it’s a lot better than nothing, but I would possibly look into the websites above to see about a more professional solution.
There is a whole PH room on the world of detailing.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&...
Wrong.
If it could destroy clear coat etc then you wouldnt have skin over your bones when doing dishes.
You can use it when ever you want, its a good degreaser which is perfect for a spring time wash.
I wouldnt use it all the time, but if your going for a full on weekend spring clean then no harm will be done.
After its all protected with whichever choice of lsp then a no gloss additive shampoo for me.
If it could destroy clear coat etc then you wouldnt have skin over your bones when doing dishes.
You can use it when ever you want, its a good degreaser which is perfect for a spring time wash.
I wouldnt use it all the time, but if your going for a full on weekend spring clean then no harm will be done.
After its all protected with whichever choice of lsp then a no gloss additive shampoo for me.
Have a look on YouTube for lots of hints. This guy did a good job with his dads old Astra;
https://youtu.be/efnnm7W3gzk
https://youtu.be/efnnm7W3gzk
alorotom said:
ashleyman said:
mix some fairy liquid with water
You should never use any kind of dish washing detergent on a car it contains some pretty nasty stuff that accelerated clear coat and paint degradation and also promotes faster rust ingresssmudgerebt said:
Wrong.
If it could destroy clear coat etc then you wouldnt have skin over your bones when doing dishes.
Not really, our skin is remarkably chemically resistant and continually renewing itself. Abrasives do strip the outer layer off, which also tends to come off by itself over time so that's fine. If you were to open any fan cooled appliance (I.E. a computer) you'd notice a layer of dust over everything. That dust is mostly dead skin. If it could destroy clear coat etc then you wouldnt have skin over your bones when doing dishes.
Clear coat isn't continually renewing itself. I wouldn't use an abrasive soap like dish washing liquid on my car.
Whilst the clear coat is fairly hardy, I'd be more worried about how quickly it's eating the wax because if you get down to the clear coat, the wax that is protecting your paintwork is gone.
TL;DR:
If you don't care about your paint work... Use dishwashing liquid.
Depends on LSP, if you have a chat with the makers (not the resellers) a number will say to use a degreaser like Fairy to actually clean up the LSP as it gets "clogged", and not to use a shampoo which has additives (gloss enhancer, wax etc) as this may have an adverse effect on the LSP.
Whilst Fairy (other brands exist) may degrade your LSP it certainly wont damage clear coat.
But I do have a degreaser which if used neat (or even at 5:1) will do decent amount of damage to chrome trim, plastics, rubber, and thats for general/car use. Fairy even neat wont do that.
But this is a sub-topic which is leading away from the OP.
Maybe a conversation for a new thread or DW?
Whilst Fairy (other brands exist) may degrade your LSP it certainly wont damage clear coat.
But I do have a degreaser which if used neat (or even at 5:1) will do decent amount of damage to chrome trim, plastics, rubber, and thats for general/car use. Fairy even neat wont do that.
But this is a sub-topic which is leading away from the OP.
Maybe a conversation for a new thread or DW?
ashleyman said:
alorotom said:
ashleyman said:
mix some fairy liquid with water
You should never use any kind of dish washing detergent on a car it contains some pretty nasty stuff that accelerated clear coat and paint degradation and also promotes faster rust ingressI'm not anal about the cars but have picked up a few tips that I would have once panned off as gimmicks which do actually make things much easier:
1. Rinse the car down first with the power washer to remove as much loose surface crap as possible, thus mean the chemicals have less work to do.
2. Spray some non caustic wheel cleaner on the alloys, all purpose cleaner such as G101 under the arches, on the tyres and a light mist on the high impact areas such as the front bumper and the sills if it's really filthy.
3. Snowfoam the car, I used Bilt Hamber foam and it was good... now have Autosmart foam and it's also good. Let it sit on the car for a few minutes and if feeling enthusiastic, go round the shut lines etc with a detailing brush and then use a long thin, bog brush type of thing to do the wheels.
4. Blast off with the power washer... feeling manly. Pay particular attention to the wheels and under the arches, be surprised at the amount of mud that falls out.
5. Big bucket of soapy water, I got mine from Halfords (yellow Meguiars) for about £7 and use one of their grey polish mitts which is as good as a wash mitt. apply minimal pressure, just glide once over the panels and that's it. I haven't bought in to the two bucket thing, I just don't dip the mitt to the bottom of the bucket. Jury is out on that one.
6. Rinse off with the garden hose on a gentle spray, seems to help the water sheet off the car better than when using the power washer. Water plants at the same time, bonus points for getting the wife...
7. Dry... either with a very soft towel, again minimal pressure or if that's you done and there's no polish to follow, a quick blast between junction 1A and 2 will suffice.
8. Apply trim dresser to tyres and trims, Autosmart Highstyle being my choice because it's cheap and good and then mayeb a wee spray under the arches to make them look clean.
9. Quick clean of the glass inside and out with glass cleaner, Windowlene usually... as manky windows make the car look really grubby, even when washed.
That's basically it... they get hoovered and a wipe down inside as and when required and the engine bays get done as and when too. If they need a polish, then I use Autosmart Topaz as it's very easy, can go on a wet car and polishes off well. I have got a DA polisher and assorted compounds, pads and levels of enthusiasm but one car was done and barely gets used and the otehr two get a hard lives so it's not worth the hassle trying to machine them... ever...
1. Rinse the car down first with the power washer to remove as much loose surface crap as possible, thus mean the chemicals have less work to do.
2. Spray some non caustic wheel cleaner on the alloys, all purpose cleaner such as G101 under the arches, on the tyres and a light mist on the high impact areas such as the front bumper and the sills if it's really filthy.
3. Snowfoam the car, I used Bilt Hamber foam and it was good... now have Autosmart foam and it's also good. Let it sit on the car for a few minutes and if feeling enthusiastic, go round the shut lines etc with a detailing brush and then use a long thin, bog brush type of thing to do the wheels.
4. Blast off with the power washer... feeling manly. Pay particular attention to the wheels and under the arches, be surprised at the amount of mud that falls out.
5. Big bucket of soapy water, I got mine from Halfords (yellow Meguiars) for about £7 and use one of their grey polish mitts which is as good as a wash mitt. apply minimal pressure, just glide once over the panels and that's it. I haven't bought in to the two bucket thing, I just don't dip the mitt to the bottom of the bucket. Jury is out on that one.
6. Rinse off with the garden hose on a gentle spray, seems to help the water sheet off the car better than when using the power washer. Water plants at the same time, bonus points for getting the wife...
7. Dry... either with a very soft towel, again minimal pressure or if that's you done and there's no polish to follow, a quick blast between junction 1A and 2 will suffice.
8. Apply trim dresser to tyres and trims, Autosmart Highstyle being my choice because it's cheap and good and then mayeb a wee spray under the arches to make them look clean.
9. Quick clean of the glass inside and out with glass cleaner, Windowlene usually... as manky windows make the car look really grubby, even when washed.
That's basically it... they get hoovered and a wipe down inside as and when required and the engine bays get done as and when too. If they need a polish, then I use Autosmart Topaz as it's very easy, can go on a wet car and polishes off well. I have got a DA polisher and assorted compounds, pads and levels of enthusiasm but one car was done and barely gets used and the otehr two get a hard lives so it's not worth the hassle trying to machine them... ever...
alorotom said:
ashleyman said:
alorotom said:
ashleyman said:
mix some fairy liquid with water
You should never use any kind of dish washing detergent on a car it contains some pretty nasty stuff that accelerated clear coat and paint degradation and also promotes faster rust ingressLater, I was discussing this with a chemist friend. Washing up liquid has a really high salt content which makes your plates squeaky clean, but makes cars rust rapidly. The sticky nature of washing up liquid, means it does not rinse off easily and gets stuck on cross members and crevices quite easily etc.
Since that time I have never used washing up liquid again on my cars. Use a car shampoo which is designed to wash cars, not wash dishes......
Mike
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