Hammerite smooth

[overunder12g]

I have used this paint on a motorbike frame. The finish looks ok but, my question is, can I use T cut/polish etc to give some extra gloss?

Thanks for any replies.

[Mignon]

I would say you're better off with ordinary household gloss paint and an undercoat than Hammerite. I've used it a lot on engine blocks over the years but I'm not sure it dries hard enough to T cut. I used to have a race engine customer who worked in a body shop and he painted his blocks with car spray paint and they looked amazing.

[overunder12g]

Thanks for that. I guess a lot depends on how long it is left to cure. Emailed the company for advice. Response said we will respond within three working days. One week later and nothing!
Guess I made a wrong move using this product.

[Fastpedeller]

I spray painted my pedal bike frame with it. Guy in another cycling club (car sprayer) said it wouldn't last. He was correct, it fell off in sheets a couple of years later. It seems it's so brittle that microscopic crack occur even with ambient temperature change, allowing water to get in and rust to form underneath. I gave it to him to spray and he did a great job, which lasted longer than the frame!

Edited by Fastpedeller on Saturday 28th April 12:57

[Arnold Cunningham]

I have previously t-cut and polished red hammerite smooth and it came out nicely. However, in the big picture, I find hammerite to not be a very good paint at all these days - there's always a better paint for the job you're trying to do. If I'm doing an engine block, the the por-15 stuff comes out nice, if I'm doing chassis or suspension bits satin black rattle can comes out OK. And a million other choices in each case too, that rarely includes hammerite.

[Fastpedeller]

For chassis and suspension bits brushed paint has to be a better choice than spray (more protection as thicker coating) - done properly (correct pain and good brush) will look no different to a sprayed finish.

[V8covin]

Arnold Cunningham said:

I have previously t-cut and polished red hammerite smooth and it came out nicely. However, in the big picture, I find hammerite to not be a very good paint at all these days - there's always a better paint for the job you're trying to do. If I'm doing an engine block, the the por-15 stuff comes out nice, if I'm doing chassis or suspension bits satin black rattle can comes out OK. And a million other choices in each case too, that rarely includes hammerite.

You're not wrong,Hammerite smooth and Hammerite hammered finish are up there with the worst paints on the planet and best avoided

[Mr2Mike]

Fastpedeller said:

For chassis and suspension bits brushed paint has to be a better choice than spray (more protection as thicker coating) - done properly (correct pain and good brush) will look no different to a sprayed finish.

I would agree, but if you want good protection you'd be brushing something like epoxy mastic onto your suspension rather than Hammerite.

[EazyDuz]

Excellent paint for rust protection in areas you cant see (the brush on version) wouldnt touch it for anything else

[Fastpedeller]

Mr2Mike said:

Fastpedeller said:

For chassis and suspension bits brushed paint has to be a better choice than spray (more protection as thicker coating) - done properly (correct pain and good brush) will look no different to a sprayed finish.

I would agree, but if you want good protection you'd be brushing something like epoxy mastic onto your suspension rather than Hammerite.

Indeed - I wouldn't even use hammerite (smooth or otherwise) on my garage shelving. Epoxy may be very good. For a very good, durable finish (that can look like plastic coating if applied well!) just use red oxide primer, followed by undercoat and then a gloss Dulux topcoat. It's soft enough to resist chipping, and if done properly lasts years (25 years on chassis/suspension on one of my kit cars)