Discussion
I know there are a few owners on here. A quite fancy a late model v2, initially a Factory version.
They seem to go for about £6k, I've seen the one below for £4k. How does the standard model compare to the Factory?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
They seem to go for about £6k, I've seen the one below for £4k. How does the standard model compare to the Factory?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
I have a non-factory 2010.
It's a brilliant bike, quick, comfy and makes a great noise. I use mine all year round and other than some wiring that needed repairing because it has rubbed on the frame I've had no problems.
My bike has an ohlins shock from a factory and after a rebuild seems ok.
It's a brilliant bike, quick, comfy and makes a great noise. I use mine all year round and other than some wiring that needed repairing because it has rubbed on the frame I've had no problems.
My bike has an ohlins shock from a factory and after a rebuild seems ok.
I only had the faired versions, four now, one R and three Factory models, for me the difference is night and day, whether you'd notice it in the same way on a Tuono I can't say.
Just stripped and cleaned the Ohlins forks on mine today, stopped a leak with no parts (hardly used), Mot tomorrow which of course is a pass haha.
Just stripped and cleaned the Ohlins forks on mine today, stopped a leak with no parts (hardly used), Mot tomorrow which of course is a pass haha.
Sorry, I meant 2007-2008 Factories go for around £6k, R's of the same age about £4 to £4.5k.
Early non-APRC v4s are at around £7k with the APRC about an extra grand. I'm not sure how they compare reliability wise, otherwise I'd be tempted to go v4 (in white or silver).
eta
however, there are a number of APRC v4s on biketrader at £7k so maybe that's where they are now.
Early non-APRC v4s are at around £7k with the APRC about an extra grand. I'm not sure how they compare reliability wise, otherwise I'd be tempted to go v4 (in white or silver).
eta
however, there are a number of APRC v4s on biketrader at £7k so maybe that's where they are now.
Edited by CaptainSlow on Saturday 21st April 10:24
If you can hold out for a factory model and don't mind the gold frame then it's worth it, the upgrades are worth more than the £1k premium they go for over the standard R model.
Factory tuonos tend to go for £5-6k, I'd be looking for one with under 15-20k, there's lots about.
Over the R model you get:
Ohlins suspension front and rear
Lighter forged wheels (gold or blue depending on the year)
Carbon. Lots of carbon! - bellypan, side trim, frame wind deflectors, hugger, mudguard, reservoir pot trim.
4 pad calipers (R models have the 2 pad calipers).
Go for as late a model as you can as a lot of the electrical issues were fixed after 07/08. The 08 models have gold wheels, 07 have blue wheels, both with the 'red lion' paint scheme, then the 09 was the 'black dream' paint scheme which was the last year they made the tuono factory.
Check the ohlins fork leg by the pinch bolts as these have a habit of being over tightened and cracking the fork bottom, it's £300 to replace each side.
Oh and any excuse to post a pic of mine
Akra cans were pretty much a standard fit option, 75% have them, the OE cans are far too quiet.
The fuelling on them is absolutely perfect, being a cable throttle with a pretty refined FI system there's zero jerkiness. At slow speeds around town they feel like a caged lion, just wanting to be released, if it's not been done already you'll want to change the gearing to 15/42 from 16/40 as standard, this makes the bike a lot more tolerable at slow speeds and the top speed is still 140mph+.
Tbh it will mostly come down to if you like the factory styling, the R model is a lot less 'in your face' but the factory model is definitely a conversation starter!!
Any Q's please shout! Also if you're on Facebook look up Aprilia Performance - Griff and the guys are the go to UK workshop for Apes, there's a lot of knowledge in the group.
Also to give you an idea, I bought mine for £5250 with 12k miles on the clock 18 months ago, that was a private seller.
Factory tuonos tend to go for £5-6k, I'd be looking for one with under 15-20k, there's lots about.
Over the R model you get:
Ohlins suspension front and rear
Lighter forged wheels (gold or blue depending on the year)
Carbon. Lots of carbon! - bellypan, side trim, frame wind deflectors, hugger, mudguard, reservoir pot trim.
4 pad calipers (R models have the 2 pad calipers).
Go for as late a model as you can as a lot of the electrical issues were fixed after 07/08. The 08 models have gold wheels, 07 have blue wheels, both with the 'red lion' paint scheme, then the 09 was the 'black dream' paint scheme which was the last year they made the tuono factory.
Check the ohlins fork leg by the pinch bolts as these have a habit of being over tightened and cracking the fork bottom, it's £300 to replace each side.
Oh and any excuse to post a pic of mine
Akra cans were pretty much a standard fit option, 75% have them, the OE cans are far too quiet.
The fuelling on them is absolutely perfect, being a cable throttle with a pretty refined FI system there's zero jerkiness. At slow speeds around town they feel like a caged lion, just wanting to be released, if it's not been done already you'll want to change the gearing to 15/42 from 16/40 as standard, this makes the bike a lot more tolerable at slow speeds and the top speed is still 140mph+.
Tbh it will mostly come down to if you like the factory styling, the R model is a lot less 'in your face' but the factory model is definitely a conversation starter!!
Any Q's please shout! Also if you're on Facebook look up Aprilia Performance - Griff and the guys are the go to UK workshop for Apes, there's a lot of knowledge in the group.
Also to give you an idea, I bought mine for £5250 with 12k miles on the clock 18 months ago, that was a private seller.
Edited by Tall_Paul on Saturday 21st April 11:53
CaptainSlow said:
How do they take the mileage? This one is on 25k.
Afternoon all, I had the old version of this Tuono, from 2003. It had 27k on it when I sold it. Still went like the proverbial, um, proverbials....
As long as the rest of the bike is maintained, that V-Twin can really take some serious abuse for many miles. Not a single breakdown in the 9000 miles that I had it, riding in all weathers
I had an 07 tuono factory for a short period. Didn't get on with it and sold it again quite swiftly. Had about 5k miles and was fairly tidy. If you are used to jap stuff the build quality on them will disappoint.
A nice factory can be had for £5.5-6k
The rear linkages need regular attention, they dogbones cock over to one side and wear the plates. Have been a few cases of parts corroding/cracking which ends up with a crash obviously. Regular cleaning/greasing will prevent this but it is a poor cheap design. They plates are thinner on gen2 bikes than gen1 and places sell plastic spacers or strengthened plates to address the issues.
The ohlins fork bottoms crack very easily, the casting is way too thin. If you have any kind of anti sieze/grease (common sense in that area exposed to road crap) on the threads and torque them to the manual spec they will very likely crack. Need to be dry threads or a lower torque or literally just apply common sense and nip them up. Circa £450 for parts plus labour to replace and is very common.
The tanks are plastic and swell, they also bubble under the stickers. Due to ethanol. This looks naff but also makes it awkward to refit the tank if it gets severe. Doesn't seem to be any solution. I've seen them swell and pull the stickers apart so it looks uneven.
The charging system is a weak point. They change the stator set up and output at some point but can't remember what year.
The 4 pad vs 2 pad caliper set up isn't a difference from normal model to factory. It just changed over the years of production so either bike may have either caliper.
As mentioned they feel like they want to be ridden fast all the time, around town/going slow they feel uncomfortable. The clutches are very heavy on them and ohlins stuff quite firm which doesn't help (Oberon sell upgraded slave cylinders to improve this). Then when you get out of town and give it some they are quick but not blisteringly fast.
The carbon is bling but if not looked after it will yellow/dull and just look nasty as plenty do now. Numerous posts on owners clubs about sanding it back and restoring it.
They aren't that big despite looking it with the bit wide bars, the rear end set up is just the same as the RSV so quite cramped if you are tall. I've got an MT10 now and it's much much comfier.
I'm probably quite particular about stuff, But the whole fit/finish just feels lacking for how much money they command. But then they aren't depreciating so guess it doesn't matter!
I've owned a fair number of other bikes and really didn't gel with it despite people loving them. I was very happy to see the back of it.
A nice factory can be had for £5.5-6k
The rear linkages need regular attention, they dogbones cock over to one side and wear the plates. Have been a few cases of parts corroding/cracking which ends up with a crash obviously. Regular cleaning/greasing will prevent this but it is a poor cheap design. They plates are thinner on gen2 bikes than gen1 and places sell plastic spacers or strengthened plates to address the issues.
The ohlins fork bottoms crack very easily, the casting is way too thin. If you have any kind of anti sieze/grease (common sense in that area exposed to road crap) on the threads and torque them to the manual spec they will very likely crack. Need to be dry threads or a lower torque or literally just apply common sense and nip them up. Circa £450 for parts plus labour to replace and is very common.
The tanks are plastic and swell, they also bubble under the stickers. Due to ethanol. This looks naff but also makes it awkward to refit the tank if it gets severe. Doesn't seem to be any solution. I've seen them swell and pull the stickers apart so it looks uneven.
The charging system is a weak point. They change the stator set up and output at some point but can't remember what year.
The 4 pad vs 2 pad caliper set up isn't a difference from normal model to factory. It just changed over the years of production so either bike may have either caliper.
As mentioned they feel like they want to be ridden fast all the time, around town/going slow they feel uncomfortable. The clutches are very heavy on them and ohlins stuff quite firm which doesn't help (Oberon sell upgraded slave cylinders to improve this). Then when you get out of town and give it some they are quick but not blisteringly fast.
The carbon is bling but if not looked after it will yellow/dull and just look nasty as plenty do now. Numerous posts on owners clubs about sanding it back and restoring it.
They aren't that big despite looking it with the bit wide bars, the rear end set up is just the same as the RSV so quite cramped if you are tall. I've got an MT10 now and it's much much comfier.
I'm probably quite particular about stuff, But the whole fit/finish just feels lacking for how much money they command. But then they aren't depreciating so guess it doesn't matter!
I've owned a fair number of other bikes and really didn't gel with it despite people loving them. I was very happy to see the back of it.
Edited by Jakey123 on Sunday 16th December 13:42
Jakey123 said:
If you are used to jap stuff the build quality on them will disappoint.
I can’t agree with that at all. I have owned a few jap bikes and currently own a Kawasaki and a Yamaha alongside my 2009 Tuono and the Aprilia is much better screwed together than either. Also the finish of all components and bolts etc is a lot nicer. I’ve had mine for 3 years and it needed a new speed sensor in the first week of ownership and nothing since.
FK said:
CaptainSlow said:
How do they take the mileage? This one is on 25k.
Afternoon all, I had the old version of this Tuono, from 2003. It had 27k on it when I sold it. Still went like the proverbial, um, proverbials....
As long as the rest of the bike is maintained, that V-Twin can really take some serious abuse for many miles. Not a single breakdown in the 9000 miles that I had it, riding in all weathers
I had a 2003 one for 2 years and nothing went wrong with it whatsoever.
OK, so I've bought a 2011 R model V2 Tuono, arrived yesterday. On initial inspection it looks nice but will need C&S and tyres soon.
One thing I'm struggling with is checking the dry sump oil level. I had it briefly running on the side stand and I couldn't see any oil either when running or when off. I've got a suitable paddock stand on order. How is best to check the oil level?
One thing I'm struggling with is checking the dry sump oil level. I had it briefly running on the side stand and I couldn't see any oil either when running or when off. I've got a suitable paddock stand on order. How is best to check the oil level?
CaptainSlow said:
OK, so I've bought a 2011 R model V2 Tuono, arrived yesterday. On initial inspection it looks nice but will need C&S and tyres soon.
One thing I'm struggling with is checking the dry sump oil level. I had it briefly running on the side stand and I couldn't see any oil either when running or when off. I've got a suitable paddock stand on order. How is best to check the oil level?
Its the same for the the RSVR I own. One thing I'm struggling with is checking the dry sump oil level. I had it briefly running on the side stand and I couldn't see any oil either when running or when off. I've got a suitable paddock stand on order. How is best to check the oil level?
Method is run it for approx 10 minutes (few miles of riding)
Stop and leave for approx 2-3 mins.
Hold upright, not on a paddock stand
Should be just above the min level. I'm led to believe above half and towards the full line is actually too full and ends up chucking oil into the airbox.
Hope that helps
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