Discussion
I'm hoping someone can help. We recently inherited a 1972 MGB-GT from my father in law and we think we may have already manage to kill it! Put unleaded petrol in at the weekend - clearly that was the wrong thing to do! Please can someone advise us on what this beautiful car needs.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Ok so perhaps a little dramatic when I said killed it! Stopped for fuel, ran the car for about 15/20 mins, started to splutter in a way we have been told is similar to a wrong fuel situation and then stopped. We could get it started again but was very juddery so thought it best not to continue driving it.
I do know that Mr Miller Sr used to add something to it but.....well I wish we had been able to ask all the relevant questions before he passed away!
We have paperwork that says '1979/80 petrol tank replaced'
I do know that Mr Miller Sr used to add something to it but.....well I wish we had been able to ask all the relevant questions before he passed away!
We have paperwork that says '1979/80 petrol tank replaced'
For now, chuck a lead replacement and octane booster supplement in the tank and she will be fine.
Something like this:
https://www.classic-oils.net/Valvemaster-Plus
Something like this:
https://www.classic-oils.net/Valvemaster-Plus
If it hasn't been used for a long time it's possible that filling it with fuel has disturbed debris in the tank which has fed through to the carbs and is causing the rough running.
Does it have a fuel filter on it - maybe an in-line or cartridge type? If you can, check that for signs of contamination/water.
Next stop would be to remove the float bowls of the carbs and have a look inside. Although unlikely, check the air filter too.
An engine needs spark, air, fuel and compression to fire, so it'll be a case of elimination - it's more than likely a fuel issue though, but the fact that you used unleaded won't be the cause of the problem.
Does it have a fuel filter on it - maybe an in-line or cartridge type? If you can, check that for signs of contamination/water.
Next stop would be to remove the float bowls of the carbs and have a look inside. Although unlikely, check the air filter too.
An engine needs spark, air, fuel and compression to fire, so it'll be a case of elimination - it's more than likely a fuel issue though, but the fact that you used unleaded won't be the cause of the problem.
It's actually been run quite a bit recently. We drove it home from my in laws - an hours journey. And my husband has been taking it out once a week for a run around. I'm fairly certain we should have added something in with the fuel but we don't know what and we don't know whether we should have the engine flushed.
MrsMiller04 said:
Ok so perhaps a little dramatic when I said killed it! Stopped for fuel, ran the car for about 15/20 mins, started to splutter in a way we have been told is similar to a wrong fuel situation and then stopped. We could get it started again but was very juddery so thought it best not to continue driving it.
It's very unlikely that you've done any damage to the engine in such a short time and I think comments about taking the heads off and replacing valve seats are leading you in completely the wrong direction.You probably have either a fuel blockage, or an ignition fault. A competent mechanic should have no trouble taking the plugs out to tell you whether the misfire is due to lack of fuel or lack of spark. The fact the car initially ran OK would make me suspect the fuel supply first, but they're both plausible explanations for those symptoms and should both be straight forward to fix.
Haven't a lot of MGs been adjusted to run unleaded by now? (i.e. what makes you think unleaded is the wrong flavour?)Sounds like time for a Haynes manual & some basic tools!
Many call the Haynes manuals but I've been buying them for years for all our cars & see far too many on the shelves of smaller garages to take much notice of the nay-sayers - although some of the humorous threads are very funny.
I can say that as far as the ones I've got are concerned many of the pics, line drawings & instructions are straight lifts from the factory workshop manuals but with alternatives and/or workarounds where the factory one specifies a particular service tool.
They will give you a trouble shooting work through to follow.
This may be worth a read:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ignitiontext.htm
Many call the Haynes manuals but I've been buying them for years for all our cars & see far too many on the shelves of smaller garages to take much notice of the nay-sayers - although some of the humorous threads are very funny.
I can say that as far as the ones I've got are concerned many of the pics, line drawings & instructions are straight lifts from the factory workshop manuals but with alternatives and/or workarounds where the factory one specifies a particular service tool.
They will give you a trouble shooting work through to follow.
This may be worth a read:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ignitiontext.htm
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