Distributor - connecting to a remote ignition amp.
Discussion
My car has an ignition amp module mounted to the side of the coil and a cable connects this to the dizzy, with a fat two pin male connector, that fits into a two pin female connector that is fixed to the side of the distributor, with cables that go into it through a rubber 'gasket'.
The distributor I am trying to replace it with has the amp module mounted to the side of it, and removing this amp there are two little female spades that stick out about 10mm in a blue cap, from the side of the dizzy.
I suspect that if I disconnect the 3 pin wire from my current amp and unwind the loom, and fit that into this new amp, that might work, but I really don't want to have the amp mounted on the side of the coil as I think it is a backwards step.
Is this a case of opening up both of them, taking the two wires out of the new dizzy and splicing the old wires and female connector to it? Or is there a less 'bodge' way to do it?
The distributor I am trying to replace it with has the amp module mounted to the side of it, and removing this amp there are two little female spades that stick out about 10mm in a blue cap, from the side of the dizzy.
I suspect that if I disconnect the 3 pin wire from my current amp and unwind the loom, and fit that into this new amp, that might work, but I really don't want to have the amp mounted on the side of the coil as I think it is a backwards step.
Is this a case of opening up both of them, taking the two wires out of the new dizzy and splicing the old wires and female connector to it? Or is there a less 'bodge' way to do it?
Steve_D said:
You need to do a bit of research on both your dizzys. The replacement may have different ignition timing and may not suit your engine.
Why are you not just replacing like for like?
Steve
Testing and research is exactly why I am replacing it, the old one is not only worn (120k miles), it only has 7 degrees of mechanical timing. The one I want to fit gives me more options with 12 degrees of mechanical timing. Why are you not just replacing like for like?
Steve
You should be able to follow this back quite easily. The only difference between the 2 and 3 pin amplifier is the 3 pin has a dedicated earth pin, and the 2 pin grounds through the heat sink. The other 2 pins are 12 volts supply and the trigger input. so the basic wiring will be two wires from the trigger head- one side grounded on the amp, the other to the trigger pin. The signal from the trigger head is AC so if you get the wires the wrong way around, it will probably still work, but the timing will alter as it triggers on the wrong side of the AC pulse, so check your timing after you connect it up. If you do want to make your own connection up from scratch between dizzy and amp, you can get 2.5 mm spade / blade connectors that will fit the dizzy side of things.
Edited by blitzracing on Tuesday 1st May 09:30
jazzdude said:
My car has an ignition amp module mounted to the side of the coil and a cable connects this to the dizzy, with a fat two pin male connector, that fits into a two pin female connector that is fixed to the side of the distributor, with cables that go into it through a rubber 'gasket'.
The distributor I am trying to replace it with has the amp module mounted to the side of it, and removing this amp there are two little female spades that stick out about 10mm in a blue cap, from the side of the dizzy.
I suspect that if I disconnect the 3 pin wire from my current amp and unwind the loom, and fit that into this new amp, that might work, but I really don't want to have the amp mounted on the side of the coil as I think it is a backwards step.
Is this a case of opening up both of them, taking the two wires out of the new dizzy and splicing the old wires and female connector to it? Or is there a less 'bodge' way to do it?
This has confused me, bear in mind I am easily confusedThe distributor I am trying to replace it with has the amp module mounted to the side of it, and removing this amp there are two little female spades that stick out about 10mm in a blue cap, from the side of the dizzy.
I suspect that if I disconnect the 3 pin wire from my current amp and unwind the loom, and fit that into this new amp, that might work, but I really don't want to have the amp mounted on the side of the coil as I think it is a backwards step.
Is this a case of opening up both of them, taking the two wires out of the new dizzy and splicing the old wires and female connector to it? Or is there a less 'bodge' way to do it?
You don't want an amp fitted by the coil
You have a distributor with an amp fitted to the side of it and this is what you want
I don't understand why you removed the amp from the distributor to see how it connected
Surely you need to be looking at the type of plug needed to connect the distributor mounted amp to the coil
Dou you need a cable to connect this below type of amp to the coil? Am I missing something here?
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 1st May 10:00
Penelope Stopit said:
If you do need the above, Belle427 has posted you a link that you have viewed yet state that the supplier advertising this type plug doesn't sell them as advertised, if they are advertising them they are obliged to sell them as is and you can adapt one by adding a cable if need be
Thats what they call a Junior timer plug (dont ask me why) you can get on Ebay.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMP-3-Way-Junior-Power-...
Thank you for your replies but I think I need to clarify things further.
This is my current connector on the side of the dizzy:
From here, two wires go straight into the dizzy through a grommet to the pickup inside.
My 'new' dizzy with the amp removed looks like this:
The other end goes to a flat plate, on which the amp is mounted (3 pin). The bracket looks like this:
http://powerspark.co.uk/powerspark-ignition-v8-mod...
That wire at the top of the picture seems to be what I need but they won't sell it on its own. I am just hoping that others who may have replaced their dizzys with this scenario may have done something different.
This is my current connector on the side of the dizzy:
From here, two wires go straight into the dizzy through a grommet to the pickup inside.
My 'new' dizzy with the amp removed looks like this:
The other end goes to a flat plate, on which the amp is mounted (3 pin). The bracket looks like this:
http://powerspark.co.uk/powerspark-ignition-v8-mod...
That wire at the top of the picture seems to be what I need but they won't sell it on its own. I am just hoping that others who may have replaced their dizzys with this scenario may have done something different.
reverse and your done As above- id make up a connector with a couple of blade connectors bonded together with hot glue to get the spacing right, then use a bit of heat shrink tubing over the whole lots so it shrinks around the blue insulator and holds it in place as you have no other way of locking the connector.
blitzracing said:
As above- id make up a connector with a couple of blade connectors bonded together with hot glue to get the spacing right, then use a bit of heat shrink tubing over the whole lots so it shrinks around the blue insulator and holds it in place as you have no other way of locking the connector.
As above ^ Job Done 
I would like to use the existing cable, as this is already connected to the amp and coil at that end.
Not being an expert sparky, do I cut off the male two pin connector, add two new spade connectors and connect to a new pair of wires that I will fabricate and glue to the dizzy. The idea is that if all the shrink wrap and glue around the dizzy, that I have a point, say 10cm away that I can disconnect so I can lift the dizzy out without disturbing the coil end. I would have thought using the same wire that the existing connector is made with would do the job too, wouldn't it?
My main concern is getting wrong the part about which way round the two wires go at that connection.
Not being an expert sparky, do I cut off the male two pin connector, add two new spade connectors and connect to a new pair of wires that I will fabricate and glue to the dizzy. The idea is that if all the shrink wrap and glue around the dizzy, that I have a point, say 10cm away that I can disconnect so I can lift the dizzy out without disturbing the coil end. I would have thought using the same wire that the existing connector is made with would do the job too, wouldn't it?
My main concern is getting wrong the part about which way round the two wires go at that connection.
Foooking hell 
Sorry to say it mate, but have you ever considered you bought the wrong part
I think if it was me I would have just fitted a MegaJolt, Canems ignition only ECU..... or even a 123 Tune by now and have done with it
Taking this approach would deliver far better results and probably generate a lot less questions too
Sorry to say it mate, but have you ever considered you bought the wrong part
I think if it was me I would have just fitted a MegaJolt, Canems ignition only ECU..... or even a 123 Tune by now and have done with it
Taking this approach would deliver far better results and probably generate a lot less questions too
jazzdude said:
My car has an ignition amp module mounted to the side of the coil and a cable connects this to the dizzy, with a fat two pin male connector, that fits into a two pin female connector that is fixed to the side of the distributor, with cables that go into it through a rubber 'gasket'.
The distributor I am trying to replace it with has the amp module mounted to the side of it, and removing this amp there are two little female spades that stick out about 10mm in a blue cap, from the side of the dizzy.
I suspect that if I disconnect the 3 pin wire from my current amp and unwind the loom, and fit that into this new amp, that might work, but I really don't want to have the amp mounted on the side of the coil as I think it is a backwards step.
Is this a case of opening up both of them, taking the two wires out of the new dizzy and splicing the old wires and female connector to it? Or is there a less 'bodge' way to do it?
If you want to fit and wire the amplifier somewhere away from the distributor - Cut that 2 pin male plug off your old distributor or get another one from somewhere if the old distributor is a good one and connect it to the below type plug/terminalsThe distributor I am trying to replace it with has the amp module mounted to the side of it, and removing this amp there are two little female spades that stick out about 10mm in a blue cap, from the side of the dizzy.
I suspect that if I disconnect the 3 pin wire from my current amp and unwind the loom, and fit that into this new amp, that might work, but I really don't want to have the amp mounted on the side of the coil as I think it is a backwards step.
Is this a case of opening up both of them, taking the two wires out of the new dizzy and splicing the old wires and female connector to it? Or is there a less 'bodge' way to do it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Male-Bosch-2-Way-...
Try and adapt this male plug so that it will plug into your distributor and if you do manage to adapt it test that the cables are the correct way and the engine runs ok before sealing with silicone or another better sealant inside the plugs joining area, now make a bracket that will clamp onto the distributor and hold the plug in place (don't rely on the sealant)
If you can't adapt the above plug you will need to use the terminals that come with it to connect to the distributor and then test all is well before sealing where they connect, I doubt a hot glue gun will make the connection waterproof...use silicone or better sealant. Once the sealant has dried you will still need to make something that will prevent those connectors being pulled out or vibrated out (Don't rely on the sealant)
You could seal it up and when dried epoxy over the lot
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 2nd May 15:32
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