Checking T5 gearbox

[billybradshaw]

Evening all, I’ve got gearbox on the bench and I’d like to know what checks I can perform to see whether rebuild is necessary. I’ve read about end float and having a dti I can check this but what else should I be looking for?

One thing I have noticed is a lot of play in the input shaft, I can waggle it circa 2mm which seems a little excessive to me but as I said, I’m not sure what good looks like.

Cheers

Ian

[phillpot]

The input or first motion shaft will "wobble" a bit because the front end is not being stabilised by the spigot bearing in the end of the crank.
Assessing wear to the synchro rings and hubs cannot be done effectively without stripping the box down and even then it really needs an experienced eye to know what is acceptable and what is not.
Is it a gearbox you've used, were there any issues with it?

Edited by phillpot on Thursday 10th May 07:05

[billybradshaw]

As far as I’m aware the gearbox is the original unit, I can’t see anything in the service history about replacement or repair / overhaul in which case it’s covered circa 33k miles unfettled. I’ve had no issues with it but whilst it’s on the bench I was thinking about preventative maintenance.

Having watched some vids on YouTube I think I’ll look to check and maybe reset for end float but apart from that I’m now tempted just to throw it back in.

Ta

Ian

[phillpot]

33000 miles? it's barely run in! ....

[ukkid35]

Excessive input shaft play can result in this



That was due to clutch pilot bearing failure, coupled with input shaft play

The main problem we have now is that there are no new input shafts - they don't exist

The input shaft is 9.25" 24T 23S, which is TVR specific, so the American T5 parts suppliers generally can't help

In my case the counter shaft was also damaged, not so badly it had to be replaced immediately, but I have done now with a $100 Indian made 070 counter shaft, all good so far



The play can be fixed by removing the retainer and fitting shims, but you will need to source a supply, this time the US suppliers can help

Check out Paul Cangialosi YouTube videos for details on shimming the input shaft

Basically it can be done by feel, you want to minimise play, but not have it so tight that it binds with the output shaft

[ukkid35]

billybradshaw said:

I’ve had no issues with it but whilst it’s on the bench I was thinking about preventative maintenance.

Seriously consider fitting one of the billet 5th gear stabilisers

That should help prevent this (although this was actually caused by 5th gear circlip failure which I thought was very unfair)



You can see them fitted to both boxes here

[ukkid35]

If you're tempted to try a full rebuild the kit from Burton Power looks perfect, albeit somewhat more expensive than a US sourced kit

http://www.burtonpower.com/rebuild-kit-t5-borg-war...

[billybradshaw]

I looked across the pond for the retainer and shims, came in at circa 60 quid, same for postage 😳 Thanks for the advice, some good food for thought there.

[ukkid35]

No need to replace the retainer

Word of warning: the retainers vary in dimensions significantly

[billybradshaw]

Sorry, I meant the stabiliser as you recommended.

[ukkid35]

billybradshaw said:

Sorry, I meant the stabiliser as you recommended.

You are right of course, it is a bearing retainer

I was confused because I'd mentioned the input shaft bearing retainer earlier, and because Paul Cangialosi calls the part he developed a 'Stabilzer'

http://www.5speeds.com/cart/index.php?route=produc...