Help! I have acquired this old dog!
Help! I have acquired this old dog!
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Discussion

Dave85chim

Original Poster:

483 posts

108 months

Friday 11th May 2018
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Morning All,

So I have acquired this old dog! She is in a bit of a mess after standing in a field for best part of 10 years. A lot of work ahead, you can see from the extent of the work from the below pictures - but a bargain I think for what I paid. This came as a complete car (in bits) minus the engine. The chassis was solid, as were wishbones, a few other bits that were pretty good. My biggest challenge is at the moment trying to identify/ age it, Thanks to a few generations of mice living in it - I only have the top left corner of a log book. I presume a 400, does have a T5 bok, GKN Diff .. but not sure what else to go on.







Since this, I have started! Albeit, not entirely sure what direction im going in. Chassis looks good thanks to wire brush on a grinder and POR 15! wishbones all done, new bushes, drop links, track rod ends, diff reconditioned and fitted, hubs on.

I need to take some new pics, but this will give you an idea - all in all pretty pleased, this is never going to be a show car, but would like on the road as its my entry level into TVR.






Two obvious questions, the body is solid - just a mess. Thinking it may be easier to get a new shell would a later model fit? I do like the look of the split grill.

Secondly, whats the best way of actually dating what I have?







dhutch

17,508 posts

219 months

Friday 11th May 2018
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I would expect there to be a some form of chassis vin stamped in. I'm sure the collective can tell you where that should be located. From there you should be able to apply for copy of the v5.

As for the body, it's obviously up to you and the cost/availablity of an alternative. How while the new shape is nice I quite like the earlier shape and certainly wouldn't spend money on changing shape. If it's sound just get it preped and repainted?

Oh, and congratulations on the project!


Daniel

Dave85chim

Original Poster:

483 posts

108 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks Daniel,

yes, I found the VIN plate, it’s pretty rusty but hopefully will clean up and give some insight. I have had a it few months, but I ran the London marathon so training took over. so only now I’m getting time to play.

Engine is the only thing missing - albeit I have the heads. so that its first point to look at and decide what to do there, then look at brakes to suit. Electrically I haven’t got a clue but I’m probably some way off there yet. Gear box has just been refurbed so going to fit that this weekend, along with wheels so I can wheel it in and out of garage to work on.

Could really do with some manuals etc., if you can recommend any thing as a starting point?

ianwayne

7,679 posts

290 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
The VIN plate in the body you have found. There should also be the VIN stamped into the front chassis rail.

It may have been painted over, but the in the picture of the chassis in black on the pallet, it should be on the top left hand side, reading from left to right.



Edited by ianwayne on Friday 11th May 09:16

NZ fan

312 posts

156 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
my guess would be pre 1996? i have a 95 which has the same door opening buttons, rubber strip in the rear bumper and boot hinges
the very early ones i believe had a key slot in the opening buttons? post [approx] 96 cars had none of these items. ie door release under wing mirror, no rubber strip in rear bumper and hidden boot hinges? also can't see why the body wouldn't be re usable i mean its not going to rust is it? great project you have a blank canvas you can fit an interior that suits you and upgrade the wiring and ecu etc and bring another one of these grate cars back from the brink.

Dave85chim

Original Poster:

483 posts

108 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks both,

Yes I have it, luckily I didnt paint over!

I purchased it at £1600, so I didnt think too bad as this was always just a tinker toy through summer eveings and through the winter. But yes, certainyl a good starting point. I think Im prob looking at a 4.6 engine to go in. I want to get round to doing brakes shortly so, just leaving PAS and Fuel pipes. with this in mind, what would be a suggestion regarding Brakes. I have the standard 4.0 brakes but they will need a refurb - would I be better moving to the 5.0 brakes that come on later cars?

There seem to be two obvious breakers on Ebay ( guess I shoulnt mention names) are they a pretty good source of parts?


QBee

22,063 posts

166 months

Friday 11th May 2018
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You might be able to source a good 4 litre engine from V8 Developments. 01775 750000 IIRC. They supply the bigger variants to enthusiasts, and often take the perfectly operational 4 litre lump as a PX. Always worth a call - if they don't answer immediately leave a message, as if they have an engine on the dyno they won't hear the phone. Best time to call is lunch time.

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

171 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
Dave85chim said:
Thanks both,

Yes I have it, luckily I didnt paint over!

I purchased it at £1600, so I didnt think too bad as this was always just a tinker toy through summer eveings and through the winter. But yes, certainyl a good starting point. I think Im prob looking at a 4.6 engine to go in. I want to get round to doing brakes shortly so, just leaving PAS and Fuel pipes. with this in mind, what would be a suggestion regarding Brakes. I have the standard 4.0 brakes but they will need a refurb - would I be better moving to the 5.0 brakes that come on later cars?

There seem to be two obvious breakers on Ebay ( guess I shoulnt mention names) are they a pretty good source of parts?
If your trying to keep the car original ( value! )
Then yes the later brakes will be marginally better.
Do a bit of searching and you should find other after market alternatives for brakes such as Brembo/ Tvr AP calipers etc but usually require bracketry and bigger wheels to fit.

I have the later larger discs calipers incl newish discs and pads and a full set of new TRV pads off my 2000 Chim I removed a couple of years ago for said Brembo conversion I might part with. Pm me if your interested. I have spare bits and pieces here and there like an original wiper grill mesh ext. make a list and I might have the odd thing you need.
Great to see what your doing here.
It’s not a dog just unloved biggrin bit of polish and all that wink


Steve_D

13,801 posts

280 months

Friday 11th May 2018
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Make a list of all the parts you need. I, and others, may have the bits you need. Think I have a centre console, bonnet & pedal box laying around somewhere.

Steve

Dave85chim

Original Poster:

483 posts

108 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks guys,

I will get something together by way of a shopping list over the weekend smile

Qbee - bang in luck! Just spoke with V8D and looks like they have a 4.6 - so maybe something to be done here with my 4.0 heads? presumably if I go down this route - im looking at upgrading ecu etc. any guidance costs with this?

MisterT

326 posts

248 months

Friday 11th May 2018
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A GKN diff and T5 box I would guess dates it around late '94 early '95?

QBee

22,063 posts

166 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
Dave85chim said:
Thanks guys,

I will get something together by way of a shopping list over the weekend smile

Qbee - bang in luck! Just spoke with V8D and looks like they have a 4.6 - so maybe something to be done here with my 4.0 heads? presumably if I go down this route - im looking at upgrading ecu etc. any guidance costs with this?
Good news on the engine. Rob and his colleague are good guys, and build a lot of special engines, so must have spare standard engines regularly. One piece of advice - think caerphilly what route you are planning on taking. If you want a standard road car then you want a standard engine. If you are planning on building a track special you can cut straight to the chase, but expect some serious open-wallet surgery.

ECU - TVRs run pretty well on their Lucas 14CUX ECU, which controls the fuelling. You can stay on the same ECU, see how it runs, though you might just need to have the main chip re-mapped. The man for this is Jools, aka Kits and Classics, in Chesterfield (google him, or he is Spitfire4V8 on here). He is a decent honest guy and very good at what he does, and has his own rolling road. That's by far the cheapest way of managing it. I won't pre-empt Jools quoting you, but it will probably be a lot less than you might think.

You CAN change to an aftermarket ECU and loom, but are looking at the thick end of £2000-2500 if you, like me, want something that just works, rather than a DIY pile of misfiring electronic spaghetti. If you are a whizz with such things then you can buy the bits for under £1000, fit the ECU and loom yourself, and then get it mapped or even map it yourself. My view is that you will need professional help, at least with the mapping.

N7GTX

8,257 posts

165 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
Excellent project. I can't see clearly from your pics, but when installing the suspension arms, the bolts must be fitted from inside to out. Once the body is back on you wont be able to remove the bolts otherwise. Just a pointer wink

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
I wouldn't cal it an 'old dog'. I thought it was a new one :-)

Good project though.

ianwayne

7,679 posts

290 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
NZ fan said:
my guess would be pre 1996? i have a 95 which has the same door opening buttons, rubber strip in the rear bumper and boot hinges
the very early ones i believe had a key slot in the opening buttons? post [approx] 96 cars had none of these items. ie door release under wing mirror, no rubber strip in rear bumper and hidden boot hinges? also can't see why the body wouldn't be re usable i mean its not going to rust is it? great project you have a blank canvas you can fit an interior that suits you and upgrade the wiring and ecu etc and bring another one of these grate cars back from the brink.
You're right about the key slot in the early models. Not quite regarding the rest though, it happened in stages as they ran out of parts. I have a late '96 car with the modified front grill, higher profile bonnet and smoothed rear (no rubber strip) with longer boot lid. But Mk 1 dash and buttons on rear wings.

The door release buttons didn't move to the mirrors until 1997 as the dashboard changes happened. And the boot hinges didn't disappear completely until 1998/99 when the rear light clusters became the pod type instead of Ford Fiesta. There are other minor trim changes such as a different seat recliner lever over the years. And the spare wheel moved from the corner of the boot to being strapped to the fuel tank.

My last car was a 2000 reg that had no spare wheel or jack but I'm not 100% sure if this was as the factory intended! This 1996 one has both.

Post 2001 the last models also had faired in front headlights and Cerbera seats.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

280 months

Friday 11th May 2018
quotequote all
N7GTX said:
Excellent project. I can't see clearly from your pics, but when installing the suspension arms, the bolts must be fitted from inside to out. Once the body is back on you wont be able to remove the bolts otherwise. Just a pointer wink
Well spotted. Yes I can see the bolts are in the wrong way round.
OP you need to fix this or you will have problems later.

Steve

Dave85chim

Original Poster:

483 posts

108 months

Monday 14th May 2018
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Great Spot - Many thanks! Bolts changed smile

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

131 months

Monday 14th May 2018
quotequote all
N7GTX said:
Excellent project. I can't see clearly from your pics, but when installing the suspension arms, the bolts must be fitted from inside to out. Once the body is back on you wont be able to remove the bolts otherwise. Just a pointer wink
Spot of the year award for this

Dave85chim

Original Poster:

483 posts

108 months

Friday 6th July 2018
quotequote all
Ok so a bit of an update on the Old Dog....

Finally managed to get the speed sensor bracket for the Diff (Thanks Power)...







Gear box in - quick question, does anything sit between where the clutch push rod actually contacts the slave cylinder? Ie just metal on metal?

NZ fan

312 posts

156 months

Saturday 7th July 2018
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just metal on metal. be aware the slave has a quite powerful spring in it pushing the piston out so taking up all the slack in the mechanism and holding the release bearing firmly in contact with the pressure plate fingers. [bit of a fiddle pushing on the slave while you start the bolts]