Discussion
Hi,
I’m showing my inadequacy here. Having searched without success, I’m struggling to read/ change/ amend the readings from the app.
Are the items in “red” logged faults.
How do I move the icons around as I can only move in screen and not between?
Can I adjust the throttle pots with the engine off?
Thanks.
I’m showing my inadequacy here. Having searched without success, I’m struggling to read/ change/ amend the readings from the app.
Are the items in “red” logged faults.
How do I move the icons around as I can only move in screen and not between?
Can I adjust the throttle pots with the engine off?
Thanks.
Wolvesboy said:
Are the items in “red” logged faults.
Yes (logged or live depending on the label)Wolvesboy said:
How do I move the icons around as I can only move in screen and not between?
There are some alternative layouts available to download here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... (scroll down)Otherwise, you press and hold your finger on an existing dial/label and you can resize, move or delete it. A (+) button also appears at the bottom right of the screen where you can choose what you want to add to the screen (e.g. speedo) if it's missing.
Wolvesboy said:
Can I adjust the throttle pots with the engine off?
Yes, but the ignition has to be ON, otherwise the ECU is powered off and the app has nothing to read from. You'll need to run the engine to check adaptives and ignition advance timing of course.Have you tried the pc software. Easier with a laptop
http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/ecu-diagnostic-s...
http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/ecu-diagnostic-s...
Thanks fellas.
Frog - I tried holding the icons etc and wouldn’t move and the + button did but sporadically placed the icons on different pages!
Byker... my laptop crashed so cannot use the suggested program. I found EvoOllie’s program awesome and so easy to use (no disrespect Aide). However, i needed to access the ecu and the only way was via the RSAJP app using my phone.
As it is, i adjusted my #1 throttle pot from 24ish to 16.2 (as near as possible to 16.9) and the stalling has stopped. I still need to measure the throttle adaptives but don’t know where this info is on the RS app. I still think she is running rich but at least I can get to work ok without “hovering” over the accelerator pedal every time I slow down!
Frog - I tried holding the icons etc and wouldn’t move and the + button did but sporadically placed the icons on different pages!
Byker... my laptop crashed so cannot use the suggested program. I found EvoOllie’s program awesome and so easy to use (no disrespect Aide). However, i needed to access the ecu and the only way was via the RSAJP app using my phone.
As it is, i adjusted my #1 throttle pot from 24ish to 16.2 (as near as possible to 16.9) and the stalling has stopped. I still need to measure the throttle adaptives but don’t know where this info is on the RS app. I still think she is running rich but at least I can get to work ok without “hovering” over the accelerator pedal every time I slow down!
Is that EvoOllies MBETool program? That shows the adaptives.
Quite a few of us years ago replaced the original throttle linkages with a rose jointed rod. No slack and really easy to adjust.
Old school of thought from Trackcar which I've always followed is:
Don't follow the instructions in the manual. They won't get you to a decent setup. Just tweak the link rod, throttle pots and idle screw to get equal TPot readings and equal adaptives on both banks as close to zero as possible with suitable idle rpm (950 to 1000)
"If the banks are balanced, then the adaptives should be equal. It really is that easy.
The garage should have an airmass meter ... it comes supplied in the cerbera kit that every dealer got along with their computer / software / cam timing gear. I very rarely use the meter and just balance it from the values on the screen which is much quicker, but if you had a SP6 then I'd be worrying...that engine has individually adjustable butterflies for each cylinder and you cannot balance this without the meter.
The basis for setting the V8 is to firstly slacken the linkrod between the banks, then by interpreting the adaptive value relative to the throttle pot value bank to bank you can deduce which bank is sucking more air (assuming equal t-pot values this is the bank with the higher adaptive value) there is no other way of interpreting the values .. it's as simple as that.
You just adjust the link / throttle pots and idle screw to get the adaptives equal, but also AS CLOSE TO ZERO AS POSSIBLE! If one bank of your engine has adaptives of around 30% then this is running about on the rich limit ... it won't enrich any more than that. So this means your engine needs a good tune up.
It's also wrong to say that the ECU throws up spurious fault codes in the garage such as the AFR error ... there's a logged fault because there IS a fault ... it's the difference in airflow that's causing it. The imbalance is more noticeable at small throttles / light cruise conditions and getting it right can give much better town driving - there's also a Joospeed mod for the 4.2 version to cut out the slop in the cross link that gives a lot of poor running at part throttle."
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Quite a few of us years ago replaced the original throttle linkages with a rose jointed rod. No slack and really easy to adjust.
Old school of thought from Trackcar which I've always followed is:
Don't follow the instructions in the manual. They won't get you to a decent setup. Just tweak the link rod, throttle pots and idle screw to get equal TPot readings and equal adaptives on both banks as close to zero as possible with suitable idle rpm (950 to 1000)
"If the banks are balanced, then the adaptives should be equal. It really is that easy.
The garage should have an airmass meter ... it comes supplied in the cerbera kit that every dealer got along with their computer / software / cam timing gear. I very rarely use the meter and just balance it from the values on the screen which is much quicker, but if you had a SP6 then I'd be worrying...that engine has individually adjustable butterflies for each cylinder and you cannot balance this without the meter.
The basis for setting the V8 is to firstly slacken the linkrod between the banks, then by interpreting the adaptive value relative to the throttle pot value bank to bank you can deduce which bank is sucking more air (assuming equal t-pot values this is the bank with the higher adaptive value) there is no other way of interpreting the values .. it's as simple as that.
You just adjust the link / throttle pots and idle screw to get the adaptives equal, but also AS CLOSE TO ZERO AS POSSIBLE! If one bank of your engine has adaptives of around 30% then this is running about on the rich limit ... it won't enrich any more than that. So this means your engine needs a good tune up.
It's also wrong to say that the ECU throws up spurious fault codes in the garage such as the AFR error ... there's a logged fault because there IS a fault ... it's the difference in airflow that's causing it. The imbalance is more noticeable at small throttles / light cruise conditions and getting it right can give much better town driving - there's also a Joospeed mod for the 4.2 version to cut out the slop in the cross link that gives a lot of poor running at part throttle."
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
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