Porsche 911t 1970 2.2
Discussion
Hi Andrew
Bit of an ambiguously worded post!
"where numbers are located" - do you mean chassis and/or engine numbers?
Build spec - I'm not sure where it is specifically on a 70 911, but I imagine like most aircooled it's on a sticker under the bonnet (unless it's been painted over). It's not really a big deal on cars like this in my opinion - the options are pretty obvious when you look at the car and there weren't many back then to choose from.
What to look for: get it professionally inspected unless you are massively au fait with these cars, and even then a £300 inspection is a very good idea. But essentially rust, rust and rust - poorly repaired accident damage, poorly painted, poorly anything to do with the body will lead to terrible rust and most of it won't be evident until you get the car up in the air - the kidney bowls are a mud and water trap and are structural and expensive to fix, but they rust pretty much anywhere.
Engines and gearboxes are pretty bulletproof, they all burn a little oil and puffs of smoke on start up are normal, but watch for excessive oil use - most engines will have had at least a top end by this age - always check who did the work.
suspension can be expensive to refurb, but won't kill your wallet compared to bodywork and paint, which if the car isn't tip-top will.
Personally, I'd go to one of the respected early 911 independents and ask them - Autofarm in Oxfordshire are great with these cars, but there are others.
Not sure on good air-cooled indies in Wales - Steve Bull in devizes is the furthest west I know of, but I'm sure Bristol has one or two and others will know more.
Great little cars, and a good one is a beautifully made piece of art - the hunt is often as much fun as anything - so enjoy!
Bit of an ambiguously worded post!
"where numbers are located" - do you mean chassis and/or engine numbers?
Build spec - I'm not sure where it is specifically on a 70 911, but I imagine like most aircooled it's on a sticker under the bonnet (unless it's been painted over). It's not really a big deal on cars like this in my opinion - the options are pretty obvious when you look at the car and there weren't many back then to choose from.
What to look for: get it professionally inspected unless you are massively au fait with these cars, and even then a £300 inspection is a very good idea. But essentially rust, rust and rust - poorly repaired accident damage, poorly painted, poorly anything to do with the body will lead to terrible rust and most of it won't be evident until you get the car up in the air - the kidney bowls are a mud and water trap and are structural and expensive to fix, but they rust pretty much anywhere.
Engines and gearboxes are pretty bulletproof, they all burn a little oil and puffs of smoke on start up are normal, but watch for excessive oil use - most engines will have had at least a top end by this age - always check who did the work.
suspension can be expensive to refurb, but won't kill your wallet compared to bodywork and paint, which if the car isn't tip-top will.
Personally, I'd go to one of the respected early 911 independents and ask them - Autofarm in Oxfordshire are great with these cars, but there are others.
Not sure on good air-cooled indies in Wales - Steve Bull in devizes is the furthest west I know of, but I'm sure Bristol has one or two and others will know more.
Great little cars, and a good one is a beautifully made piece of art - the hunt is often as much fun as anything - so enjoy!
Hi, thanks for the reply.
Yes was wandering where engine no etc located and if we could go to Porsche to find out original spec re colour etc
I know the car was imported from
California in 2012.
Colour change from maroon to silver not sure if this matters too much
Dials were changed on import so we don’t know mileage as the owner passed away
Extensive file showing work carried out in America but going to view again on Tuesday to look at file in more detail re repairs etc
Car is beautiful both inside and out but going to test drive and have a good look underneath on Tuesday.
If you send me your email I will happily send you pics to get your opinion
Thanks again - feeling a little excited ha
Yes was wandering where engine no etc located and if we could go to Porsche to find out original spec re colour etc
I know the car was imported from
California in 2012.
Colour change from maroon to silver not sure if this matters too much
Dials were changed on import so we don’t know mileage as the owner passed away
Extensive file showing work carried out in America but going to view again on Tuesday to look at file in more detail re repairs etc
Car is beautiful both inside and out but going to test drive and have a good look underneath on Tuesday.
If you send me your email I will happily send you pics to get your opinion
Thanks again - feeling a little excited ha
to an extent , history file is irrelevent. With an early porsche condtion is everything followed by originality.
There is no sticker anywhere with build specs etc so ignore that. Important stamping is the chassis number on the front bulkhead panel , between the fuel tank & the dash on the passenger side ( lhd car )
Also check the aluminium chassis plate is all there on the front slam panel. Only way to tell if matching numbers car is with a COC from Porsche .. which if not provided will be difficult to get unless you own the car. You can get an idea if the engine number is in the right ball park by using info thats available in books
Get on DDK and post some pics. Any obviously incorrect / problem areas will be spotted immediatly
There is no sticker anywhere with build specs etc so ignore that. Important stamping is the chassis number on the front bulkhead panel , between the fuel tank & the dash on the passenger side ( lhd car )
Also check the aluminium chassis plate is all there on the front slam panel. Only way to tell if matching numbers car is with a COC from Porsche .. which if not provided will be difficult to get unless you own the car. You can get an idea if the engine number is in the right ball park by using info thats available in books
Get on DDK and post some pics. Any obviously incorrect / problem areas will be spotted immediatly
Colour change will affect value negatively as originality with these cars is key
A full history file is important too
Pictures won’t tell you much as it’s the horrors that lie beneath the shiny paint that tell the tale; although poor panel gaps, overspray etc might signify a poor job that might suggest the rest of the bodywork will be similarly worrisome. If it’s been imported from a dry state that might be a plus, but 6 years in this country is long enough for rust to take over.
Get shots of the underneath
Check if the kidneys were done and did they take photos of the work and who did it in the us
The paint should be glass smooth if it’s been done well - no orange peel and the panel gaps are a pain to get right - but an essential sign if they are that some care was taken during any renovation; particularly a full colour change (if a proper job, also check the engine bay is not the old colour as engine out respray should have been done).
A full history file is important too
Pictures won’t tell you much as it’s the horrors that lie beneath the shiny paint that tell the tale; although poor panel gaps, overspray etc might signify a poor job that might suggest the rest of the bodywork will be similarly worrisome. If it’s been imported from a dry state that might be a plus, but 6 years in this country is long enough for rust to take over.
Get shots of the underneath
Check if the kidneys were done and did they take photos of the work and who did it in the us
The paint should be glass smooth if it’s been done well - no orange peel and the panel gaps are a pain to get right - but an essential sign if they are that some care was taken during any renovation; particularly a full colour change (if a proper job, also check the engine bay is not the old colour as engine out respray should have been done).
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