Stuck headlamp, no access hole
Discussion
One of the headlamps on the car is being shy and has decided it doesn't want to face the world. Problem is I don't appear to have the access panels to the manual knob mentioned in the wedge bible.
Since, as I can see it, the only way in is to start cutting, does anyone have any clues on where the hole should be and how large?
Since, as I can see it, the only way in is to start cutting, does anyone have any clues on where the hole should be and how large?
Had similar problem last month on the SEAC.It turned out to be a small hole big enough for 3 fingers ( ooh err 
) I expected to find in directly under the motor as on my 350. In fact it was in the wheel arch.
Full lock on the steering and then use a flat head screwdriver to turn the motor.
Hope you find yours
) I expected to find in directly under the motor as on my 350. In fact it was in the wheel arch. Full lock on the steering and then use a flat head screwdriver to turn the motor.
Hope you find yours
niva441 said:
Good news it's not mechanical . I was fiddling with fuses earlier and managed to get some life out of it.
Only problem now is to understand the strange sequencing that happened and delve into the wonders of all black wiring.
I wrote an article for tvrwedgepages that shows the electrical happenings, if that's any help...
As to the access hole itself, I happened to find my car parked in a suitable position to take some measurements, so with reference to this picture (seen from front of car)...
...the hole is 115mm in diameter, with the centre located 98mm from the side of the floor moulding and 108mm from the back edge...
Edit: like this...
NB: dimensions subject to usual TVR tolerances (measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with chainsaw
)
Ian
>> Edited by wedg1e on Sunday 1st May 18:57
...the hole is 115mm in diameter, with the centre located 98mm from the side of the floor moulding and 108mm from the back edge...
Edit: like this...
NB: dimensions subject to usual TVR tolerances (measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with chainsaw
) Ian
>> Edited by wedg1e on Sunday 1st May 18:57
Oddly enough that is exactly where there are 4 screws disappearing into the body. There is no sign of an access panel though, so I don't know what they are supposed to be attaching.
I can get the nearside light to rise by removing the main beam fuse!
I think the next step will be getting it up and taking the light out so I can clean up all the connections.
I can get the nearside light to rise by removing the main beam fuse!
I think the next step will be getting it up and taking the light out so I can clean up all the connections.
the 4 screws are what holds the bracket the h/lamp motor is attached to the body of the car, there should be a hole as described by wedj1e in the middle of these 4 screws which then corresponds to a hole in the bracket which should be just large enough to get a few fingers up to the black knob at the base of the motor which will raise/lower the lamp unit.
if the lamp is now working i suggest you raise it, disconnect the battery and then remove the headlamp itself to MAKE sure your bracket has a hole in it (i have seen the odd one with only a tiny hole). If it does then the best course of action is to cut a hole in the body to allow future access.
cheers
Nick
if the lamp is now working i suggest you raise it, disconnect the battery and then remove the headlamp itself to MAKE sure your bracket has a hole in it (i have seen the odd one with only a tiny hole). If it does then the best course of action is to cut a hole in the body to allow future access.
cheers
Nick
I suppose I should be impressed, as the lack of access hole probably means that in the cars 20+ years, it's not had a headlight problem before.
Whilst I've got the headlight out it won't harm to create the hole ready for next time. It will also provide a drain hole, because at the moment I can't work out where the water that goes down the gap between the pod and nose cone ends up.
Whilst I've got the headlight out it won't harm to create the hole ready for next time. It will also provide a drain hole, because at the moment I can't work out where the water that goes down the gap between the pod and nose cone ends up.
niva441 said:
I suppose I should be impressed, as the lack of access hole probably means that in the cars 20+ years, it's not had a headlight problem before.
Whilst I've got the headlight out it won't harm to create the hole ready for next time. It will also provide a drain hole, because at the moment I can't work out where the water that goes down the gap between the pod and nose cone ends up.
i will be mightily impressed if the bracket that holds the motor isn't a rusty heap by now ! there should also be a hole with a bit of hosepipe stuck in it as a drain hole but hey its a tvr so getting 2 cars the same is almost impossible.
niva441 said:
I suppose I should be impressed, as the lack of access hole probably means that in the cars 20+ years, it's not had a headlight problem before.
Whilst I've got the headlight out it won't harm to create the hole ready for next time. It will also provide a drain hole, because at the moment I can't work out where the water that goes down the gap between the pod and nose cone ends up.
Could also be that it's had a new front end and the fitters didn't cut the hole out...
Finally managed to get it up this morning!
After a bit of juggling and luck with the fuses. Found out it was the lift motor. I've cleaned up one of the contacts and it now works.
Only thing is it now operates continuously, as I think I bent the switch inside the motor housing, so it no longer shuts off at the correct height.
So that will be tomorrows job. In addition to cutting out some access holes should it happen again.
Interestingly the motors are mounted on the floor of the nosecone, not the vertical face, as illustrated in the wedge bible.
After a bit of juggling and luck with the fuses. Found out it was the lift motor. I've cleaned up one of the contacts and it now works.
Only thing is it now operates continuously, as I think I bent the switch inside the motor housing, so it no longer shuts off at the correct height.
So that will be tomorrows job. In addition to cutting out some access holes should it happen again.
Interestingly the motors are mounted on the floor of the nosecone, not the vertical face, as illustrated in the wedge bible.
niva441 said:
Finally managed to get it up this morning!
After a bit of juggling and luck with the fuses. Found out it was the lift motor. I've cleaned up one of the contacts and it now works.
Only thing is it now operates continuously, as I think I bent the switch inside the motor housing, so it no longer shuts off at the correct height.
So that will be tomorrows job. In addition to cutting out some access holes should it happen again.
Interestingly the motors are mounted on the floor of the nosecone, not the vertical face, as illustrated in the wedge bible.
Good work! I think it was mostly the later cars that had the alternative pod motor mounting, not sure what year yours is or when they introduced it.... as with so many things TVR, it seems to have depended on which way the wind was blowing...
niva441 said:
Finally managed to get it up this morning!
After a bit of juggling and luck with the fuses. Found out it was the lift motor. I've cleaned up one of the contacts and it now works.
Only thing is it now operates continuously, as I think I bent the switch inside the motor housing, so it no longer shuts off at the correct height.
So that will be tomorrows job. In addition to cutting out some access holes should it happen again.
Interestingly the motors are mounted on the floor of the nosecone, not the vertical face, as illustrated in the wedge bible.
glad you are making good progress, if it makes you feel any better all 3 of my wedges have the motors mounted onto the floor of the nose cone. i would strongly recommend you brush a liberal amout of oil over the motor mounting bracket while you have access.
regards
Nick
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