How much should changing rear brake discs/pads cost?
Discussion
I can do it myself in 1-2 hours, working on the ground and jacking up one wheel at a time. A garage with lifts should get it done quicker.
Worth mentioning that the small screws which hold the disc on the hub can sometimes be a bit awkward to get loose , but I wouldn't expect a garage to have any trouble with that.
May be worth posting what car it is and the age of the car - then people could give better advice.
Worth mentioning that the small screws which hold the disc on the hub can sometimes be a bit awkward to get loose , but I wouldn't expect a garage to have any trouble with that.
May be worth posting what car it is and the age of the car - then people could give better advice.

hoax said:
It's a Toyota Yaris 2007. I just contacted one garage and was rejected as they won't use customer supplied parts.
I bought ferodo pads and discs for it.
A lot won’t fit customer-supplied parts.I bought ferodo pads and discs for it.
They don’t want you taking it back and trying to make it their problem when they squeal, or one of the discs is warped, etc.
Depending if the Yaris is a UK or Jap build there’s two types of disc and pad... 278mm discs or 258mm
Most garages won’t touch bits that you supply because the ones from eBay are wrong and your cars then stuck on their ramp for hours everyone’s in the s
t.
Let them use their supplier then they’ll have a proper warranty and if it goes tits up you’re not to to blame
And you wouldn’t take a steak to a restaurant and expect them to cook it for you would you..
Most garages won’t touch bits that you supply because the ones from eBay are wrong and your cars then stuck on their ramp for hours everyone’s in the s
t.Let them use their supplier then they’ll have a proper warranty and if it goes tits up you’re not to to blame
And you wouldn’t take a steak to a restaurant and expect them to cook it for you would you..
On the flip side I tried to do mine once and the torx screw wasn't shifting so I sent it to the garage with the bits and never heard a peep about it.
Granted I think they were doing some other jobs on it at the same time, been using them for years etc so maybe that made it acceptable.
Granted I think they were doing some other jobs on it at the same time, been using them for years etc so maybe that made it acceptable.
Don’t forget to remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder before starting (to avoid expelling it during the assembly of pads). It may be worth cleaning the caliper sliding pins and adding high temp grease, and also to back of pads.
Also worth inspecting brake back plate for corrosion and brake shoe pin security. Check also rear brake shoes (if drum-in-hat profile). Also of course, inspect wheels and tyres for damage, uneven wear etc.
Also worth inspecting brake back plate for corrosion and brake shoe pin security. Check also rear brake shoes (if drum-in-hat profile). Also of course, inspect wheels and tyres for damage, uneven wear etc.
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