Get up to date, or stay in the past ?
Discussion
I'm really torn at the moment. I have a K4 GSXR1000 which I've owned for about 10 years. Its a terrific bike and I've managed to get out on it a lot this year and really enjoyed it (to the point that my car is becoming a bit unloved). The bike is mainly for road use.
I'm tempted to modernise and go for a S1000RR. I don't really need any more performance, but the extra 30 or 40 bhp must be a laugh. I'm looking at either a 2nd gen or maybe a 3rd generation bike. I cant imagine I'll ever deliberately 'lean' on the electronics, but it has to add a level of safety that's missing from my current bike which will allow me to explore the limits a bit more?
Question is, has anyone made this kind of step and regretted it?
I'm tempted to modernise and go for a S1000RR. I don't really need any more performance, but the extra 30 or 40 bhp must be a laugh. I'm looking at either a 2nd gen or maybe a 3rd generation bike. I cant imagine I'll ever deliberately 'lean' on the electronics, but it has to add a level of safety that's missing from my current bike which will allow me to explore the limits a bit more?
Question is, has anyone made this kind of step and regretted it?
Much like you, I was mulling the “update” question 3 years ago. I had the last non-electronic Duc (1098) and was contemplating a new 1299S which has more electronics than the space shuttle- it was the best purchase ever and I don’t miss the old bike at all. Just do it, safer, quicker, more stable, more free brain CPU cycles to enjoy riding.
jjones said:
Made the change and love it.
Might be worth stretching to a gen 3, have a gen 2 and the only modes worth using are rain and slick. Race and sport are way too intrusive. Gen 3 has more configuration (I believe) as well as launch control and cruise.
bMight be worth stretching to a gen 3, have a gen 2 and the only modes worth using are rain and slick. Race and sport are way too intrusive. Gen 3 has more configuration (I believe) as well as launch control and cruise.
ks. How you think Rain mode can be useful and in the same breath complain about the intrusion in other modes is a farce.
I’ve never had any issues with Mode 3 (Sport or Race) depending on model and I’ve used the bikes on road and track. Slick is only necessary on track, the other modes are fine for road use and if you have them kicking in all the time, then I’d suggest you need to look at your riding.
To the OP newer is always better IMO, but many will disagree with that. I think you’ll feel the difference almost immediately in terms of power and how the bike works, but whether it’s worth the extra money only you can decide.
Edited by Gavia on Monday 18th June 11:30
Biker's Nemesis said:
I'm a recent convert to bikes with all the bells and whistles.
The only intrusion I don't like on the road is anti wheelie.
How does anti-wheelie work? Like traction control where it just kills the power?The only intrusion I don't like on the road is anti wheelie.
My ZX10R was always lifting up the front wheel in low gears just with the throttle..
blade7 said:
Gavia said:
Slick is only necessary on track, the other modes are fine for road use and if you have them kicking in all the time, then I’d suggest you need to look at your riding.
Lol, was it you that posted that (with another username) back in 2012?https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1197239/Bmw-S-10...
Gavia said:
blade7 said:
Gavia said:
Slick is only necessary on track, the other modes are fine for road use and if you have them kicking in all the time, then I’d suggest you need to look at your riding.
Lol, was it you that posted that (with another username) back in 2012?https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1197239/Bmw-S-10...
Lee540 said:
How does anti-wheelie work? Like traction control where it just kills the power?
My ZX10R was always lifting up the front wheel in low gears just with the throttle..
My ZX10R was always lifting up the front wheel in low gears just with the throttle..
The anti wheelie is rather crude on my Mt10 compared to my R1.
The MT seems to cut the power which makes it come down rather abruptly when the TC is on, it won't lift very high off crests in 4th or 5th either.
When TC Is off it'll wheelie as long as you have the bottle.
The R1 is completely different in that you can adjust the anti wheelie to different levels which give you differnt amounts of lift without loosing to much forward motion. When it's off it'll wheelie like any 1000 from the last few years.
Too much traction and anti wheelie makes it hard to pass 600's coming out of low geared tight corners.
Good discussion this...
I'm having similar thoughts, with the 999R value going through the roof relative to what I paid for it I'm considering replacing it as my trackbike with a Panigale, either a 899/959, potentially an ex race bike from the TriOptions Cup as it will be 100% track bike .. similar power to my 999R but with all the electronics ....
I'm having similar thoughts, with the 999R value going through the roof relative to what I paid for it I'm considering replacing it as my trackbike with a Panigale, either a 899/959, potentially an ex race bike from the TriOptions Cup as it will be 100% track bike .. similar power to my 999R but with all the electronics ....
It's weird as the anti wheelie on MT09 is pretty good and must be different to the MT10, it allows wheelies with the traction control on level one and doesn't allow them at all on level two, I suspect it's just using the data from the wheel speed sensors.
I'm a convert to modern electrics, and my bike is relatively basic and has no IMU but you can't deny the benefits of the electronic safety net when pushing on in anything other than perfect conditions.
I'm a convert to modern electrics, and my bike is relatively basic and has no IMU but you can't deny the benefits of the electronic safety net when pushing on in anything other than perfect conditions.
Thanks for the replies. It's pretty unanimous so far in favour of the modern tech, and the more modern the better. I'm not sure the anti wheelie will cause me much of a problem as I already have an inbuilt system that only allows little ones (don't know if there should be a smiley or sad face after that).
I may keep the K4 for a bit as well, they're not worth much and I've had it a long time. Just not sure if it will get any use as a second bike.
So, I'm now on the hunt for a nice 2015 onwards on S1000RR. You're all a bad influence, last time this happened to me on PH it was "what should I expect from an Evora S", I got led astray there too.
I may keep the K4 for a bit as well, they're not worth much and I've had it a long time. Just not sure if it will get any use as a second bike.
So, I'm now on the hunt for a nice 2015 onwards on S1000RR. You're all a bad influence, last time this happened to me on PH it was "what should I expect from an Evora S", I got led astray there too.
Was in the same boat as you myself, have a k8 gsxr750 and love it, but just fancied a change.
In short, I was after a super naked style bike so tested a few, and also a few superbike 1000's.
Overall they are obviously far better equipped, faster, and nice and shiny and new but I just couldn't bring myself to get financed up on a new bike when there is literally nothing wrong with my gsxr.
It still looks mint, goes well and I don't owe anything on it, so I stayed put. If I did have a load of money come my way though, I would keep it still but buy a tuono factory. We can dream!
In short, I was after a super naked style bike so tested a few, and also a few superbike 1000's.
Overall they are obviously far better equipped, faster, and nice and shiny and new but I just couldn't bring myself to get financed up on a new bike when there is literally nothing wrong with my gsxr.
It still looks mint, goes well and I don't owe anything on it, so I stayed put. If I did have a load of money come my way though, I would keep it still but buy a tuono factory. We can dream!
Gavia said:
b
ks.
How you think Rain mode can be useful and in the same breath complain about the intrusion in other modes is a farce.
I’ve never had any issues with Mode 3 (Sport or Race) depending on model and I’ve used the bikes on road and track. Slick is only necessary on track, the other modes are fine for road use and if you have them kicking in all the time, then I’d suggest you need to look at your riding.
To the OP newer is always better IMO, but many will disagree with that. I think you’ll feel the difference almost immediately in terms of power and how the bike works, but whether it’s worth the extra money only you can decide.
Rain mode is useful in the rain funnily enough.
ks. How you think Rain mode can be useful and in the same breath complain about the intrusion in other modes is a farce.
I’ve never had any issues with Mode 3 (Sport or Race) depending on model and I’ve used the bikes on road and track. Slick is only necessary on track, the other modes are fine for road use and if you have them kicking in all the time, then I’d suggest you need to look at your riding.
To the OP newer is always better IMO, but many will disagree with that. I think you’ll feel the difference almost immediately in terms of power and how the bike works, but whether it’s worth the extra money only you can decide.
Edited by Gavia on Monday 18th June 11:30
So what good are sport or race in the first 4 gears when it keeps cutting the power on hard acceleration and you pogo down the road?
It's my opinion and if you don't like it then that's your problem not mine.
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