cut out now wont start
Discussion
Driving at 70mph today and suddenly the rev counter dropped to 0. It fired back up almost immediately,but then totally cut out and would not fire up. Traffic officers wanted to get it recovered off the dual carriage way at a cost of £180 to get it out of the compound.! They couldn't get it on the recovery vehicle because of where the towing eye is ( thankGod)!
fuel pump whirrs when ignition switched on.
Tried a new rotor arm, still no good. Took a HT lead off and earthed it on the plenum , no spark.
Tested the coil. The resistance across the posts was a little erratic, but settled down to around 1.5 ohm eventually. There is 12v on the king lead, but I guess its amps that are important for a decent spark?
Does it sound like the coil?
By the way, how do you tow them? ( may have to if I can't get it going as it's now sitting in a lay by 10 miles from home!)
Any help appreciated. Thanks
fuel pump whirrs when ignition switched on.
Tried a new rotor arm, still no good. Took a HT lead off and earthed it on the plenum , no spark.
Tested the coil. The resistance across the posts was a little erratic, but settled down to around 1.5 ohm eventually. There is 12v on the king lead, but I guess its amps that are important for a decent spark?
Does it sound like the coil?
By the way, how do you tow them? ( may have to if I can't get it going as it's now sitting in a lay by 10 miles from home!)
Any help appreciated. Thanks
I think you are a little confused. The king lead is the one in the middle like a plug lead goes from coul to middle of distributor cap. That should have 1000s of volts not 12v
Anyway you should have 12 volts at the low tension side, the normal wires on the spade connectors on the coil.
If you have 12v there then
If it was me I would replace in following order
1. Rotor arm
2. Dist cap
3. King lead
4. Coil ignition module
5 ignition coil
Whilst checking for spark at a plug at each stage. Ie pull a plug lead off and stick a spare plug in it and earth that to the engine and turn over to see if you get a spark or even an engine start.
Anyway you should have 12 volts at the low tension side, the normal wires on the spade connectors on the coil.
If you have 12v there then
If it was me I would replace in following order
1. Rotor arm
2. Dist cap
3. King lead
4. Coil ignition module
5 ignition coil
Whilst checking for spark at a plug at each stage. Ie pull a plug lead off and stick a spare plug in it and earth that to the engine and turn over to see if you get a spark or even an engine start.
There is, or should be, a towing eye on one of the front cross members. If not, then round the cross member.
Do you have a spark if you short the king lead to a rocker cover (like you tested with one of the other leads). If so, It will be cap or rotor arm. If not the most likely thing is the coil or the ignition amp.
When you tested for 12 V at the coil, was it disconnected? Do you have 12 V at the ignition amp? (With it disconnected)
Do you have a spark if you short the king lead to a rocker cover (like you tested with one of the other leads). If so, It will be cap or rotor arm. If not the most likely thing is the coil or the ignition amp.
When you tested for 12 V at the coil, was it disconnected? Do you have 12 V at the ignition amp? (With it disconnected)
Broke down A55 North Wales.
Replaced ignition amp last year, as had a similar problem but would start again when cool. Fixed with new one
With ignition on I'm getting 12v at the king lead. Is this right?
Tried Lucas rotor arm, no luck.
Been having slightly rough running and the odd back fire for a while, as well as the shunting problem.
Will try and get hold of a new coil tomorrow. Is it the same as a 3.9 Landover?
Thanks again!
Replaced ignition amp last year, as had a similar problem but would start again when cool. Fixed with new one
With ignition on I'm getting 12v at the king lead. Is this right?
Tried Lucas rotor arm, no luck.
Been having slightly rough running and the odd back fire for a while, as well as the shunting problem.
Will try and get hold of a new coil tomorrow. Is it the same as a 3.9 Landover?
Thanks again!
QBee said:
The towing eye is the full length of your arm under the dead centre of the car. It’s on the front of the bottom chassis cross member.
We were worried a towing strap would put too much pressure on the nose cone as it rises up to the towing vehicle. It needs some kind of swan neck attaching to it to bring the eye Futher forward?chris212 said:
QBee said:
The towing eye is the full length of your arm under the dead centre of the car. It’s on the front of the bottom chassis cross member.
We were worried a towing strap would put too much pressure on the nose cone as it rises up to the towing vehicle. It needs some kind of swan neck attaching to it to bring the eye Futher forward?If you were a bit nearer I would bring my trailer and help, but you are about 170 miles from me.
Shame it didn’t happen last weekend - I was passing to/from an Anglesey track day.
Yes, it’s a standard LandRover coil. Replace both the coil and ignition amp. However, make sure your king lead is connecting both ends. The coil should be producing several thousand volts, as said above. And get a RAC membership.
Yes, same as Land Rover / disco 3.9 v8 so commonly available. Go for a genuine Bosch coil. It will be twice as expensive as a budget one, but worth the extra (& we are not talking big money).
As said above I would change the ignition amp while you are at it. I have recently had one fail that had done less than 1,000 miles.
As said above I would change the ignition amp while you are at it. I have recently had one fail that had done less than 1,000 miles.
Got my last one from these people, new old stock genuine Lucas.
Maltby Auto Electrical Services Ltd. Rotherham
https://www.maes-group.co.uk/
Maltby Auto Electrical Services Ltd. Rotherham
https://www.maes-group.co.uk/
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