Water pouring out through pressure cap
Discussion
I got home from a 30 minute drive yesterday and found water pouring out of the pressure cap. The engine temperature hadn't been running particularly high, strangely enough. Does this indicate a dodgy pressure cap? My local garage has diagnosed a faulty pressure cap twice before, and both times replacing the cap appeared to resolve the problem for a while, but I can't help feeling that there's another underlying problem.
It's a pre-cat Griff 500, September 94. The cap is a blue VW item. I'm also curious to know exactly how tight the cap should be fitted - it wasn't particularly tight when I removed it yesterday.
Any thoughts/advice from the team?
It's a pre-cat Griff 500, September 94. The cap is a blue VW item. I'm also curious to know exactly how tight the cap should be fitted - it wasn't particularly tight when I removed it yesterday.
Any thoughts/advice from the team?
Hi ITM,
When you say the cap is VW does it say this on it?? And where has your local garage sourced this from it it a main TVR dealer??
I would try a Main dealer cap and I always have mine pretty tight (so it hurts my hand when I take it off)!!
I found i was loosing water and it seemed to be that i wasnt tightening the cap enough.
Try it and see. Dont really know what else it could be apart from over heating and this could be a blockage somewhere maybe in the rad?? May also be worth trying a new thermostat? I think you could run the car without a therm and see if the problem still occurs?
Lig.
When you say the cap is VW does it say this on it?? And where has your local garage sourced this from it it a main TVR dealer??
I would try a Main dealer cap and I always have mine pretty tight (so it hurts my hand when I take it off)!!
I found i was loosing water and it seemed to be that i wasnt tightening the cap enough.
Try it and see. Dont really know what else it could be apart from over heating and this could be a blockage somewhere maybe in the rad?? May also be worth trying a new thermostat? I think you could run the car without a therm and see if the problem still occurs?
Lig.
Thanks - have just been trawling the local area (Richmond, Surrey) looking for a replacement cap. As it's Sunday I've now been reduced to phoning local Halfords branches. They're not much help unless you know the exact model/year of VW that it comes from. The only VW cap I've located doesn't sound right - it has a number 547121321 on the top, whereas mine has 443121-321 on it.
I don't suppose anyone knows of a good online supplier? I've tried GSF parts but I couldn't locate the item using the part number (again I need to know the exact VW model/year).
I don't suppose anyone knows of a good online supplier? I've tried GSF parts but I couldn't locate the item using the part number (again I need to know the exact VW model/year).
i would highly recommend you get the cooling system sorted, otherwise you're in for a massive bill one day.
make sure it's properly bled out ( i understand the rad can be a bit tricky on griffs due to the angle of mounting? ), make sure the fans drop in and out as they should etc.
i modded my chim with an extra relay for one fan, using the existing supply to switch a new supply run out from one of the main lines and taken directly back to the nearest earth point, all fused of course. means that one fan goes like the clappers, and the other runs from the original supply so is ok, but doesn't blow fuses for a pass-time ( quite common if the fans get used a lot ). well worth considering this. IMO of course.
make sure it's properly bled out ( i understand the rad can be a bit tricky on griffs due to the angle of mounting? ), make sure the fans drop in and out as they should etc.
i modded my chim with an extra relay for one fan, using the existing supply to switch a new supply run out from one of the main lines and taken directly back to the nearest earth point, all fused of course. means that one fan goes like the clappers, and the other runs from the original supply so is ok, but doesn't blow fuses for a pass-time ( quite common if the fans get used a lot ). well worth considering this. IMO of course.
Well I finally replaced the pressure cap, and hand-tightened it as much as I could. Took it out for a 25-minute drive and everything seemed fine - the temperature got up to just under 90 degrees and stayed there. The only thing was when I got back I noticed a loud gurgling sound from the cooling system - by the filler cap. As far as I can tell there was little or no water escaping, but the gurgling sound was pretty alarming. The fans were going full blast.
Clearly there's still a problem somewhere - has anyone else experienced anhything like this?
Clearly there's still a problem somewhere - has anyone else experienced anhything like this?
As Ballistic Banana says, is your water level too high?
Water expands as it heats, and if there is insufficient air space in the expansion tank, it will force coolant out no matter what.
By all means, do the obvious checks for a blowing head gasket (contaminated oil; compression test; chemical test on coolant), but if the temperature gauge isn't throwing tantrums, I'd be inclined to just keep a close eye on the coolant level and see if it settles to a natural level.
Water expands as it heats, and if there is insufficient air space in the expansion tank, it will force coolant out no matter what.
By all means, do the obvious checks for a blowing head gasket (contaminated oil; compression test; chemical test on coolant), but if the temperature gauge isn't throwing tantrums, I'd be inclined to just keep a close eye on the coolant level and see if it settles to a natural level.
With what you describe I am 99% certain that you have blown a head gasket between piston and water passage. You probably will not find water in oil and oil in water since the water will be going into piston / combustion chamber. You are exhibiting the classic water system pressurisation associated with this type of failure.
DO NOT run the car untill properly diagnosed since the superheated steam that will be finding its way into the combustion chamber can crack heads due to the rapid cooling effect the water induces.
Neil.
DO NOT run the car untill properly diagnosed since the superheated steam that will be finding its way into the combustion chamber can crack heads due to the rapid cooling effect the water induces.
Neil.
OK I'll get this checked out by my local garage.
Does anyone have any ideas what the going rate for a head gasket replacement is, based on recent experience?
The next question is where to take it. I live in South-West London, and haven't been happy with Gatwick TVR. Have also used Racing Green but their labour rates are sky-high. Does anyone have any recommendations? The easiest option would be to let the local mechanic take care of it. Would that sort of job really require a TVR specialist??
Does anyone have any ideas what the going rate for a head gasket replacement is, based on recent experience?
The next question is where to take it. I live in South-West London, and haven't been happy with Gatwick TVR. Have also used Racing Green but their labour rates are sky-high. Does anyone have any recommendations? The easiest option would be to let the local mechanic take care of it. Would that sort of job really require a TVR specialist??
Sorry to hear about your problems.
can I suggest Austec nr Gatwick - very nice people and you would have to try very hard to find someone with more TVR experience and know how. Much cheaper than Gatwick main dealer (had mine booked in for a service with Gatwick, oil pressure guage went u/s, popped into Austec on a Saturday at 6pm as it was closing, blokes fixed it there and then for me. Cancelled service with main dealer & gave my money to Austec instead.)
Hope you get it sorted soon.
can I suggest Austec nr Gatwick - very nice people and you would have to try very hard to find someone with more TVR experience and know how. Much cheaper than Gatwick main dealer (had mine booked in for a service with Gatwick, oil pressure guage went u/s, popped into Austec on a Saturday at 6pm as it was closing, blokes fixed it there and then for me. Cancelled service with main dealer & gave my money to Austec instead.)
Hope you get it sorted soon.
The plot sickens....
Austec Racing have had it for just over 3 weeks now. After replacing the thermostat and pressure cap, and addressing a problem with the radiator bleed screw, the problem remains.
The strange thing is that the car doesn't overheat, even after 30-40 minutes on the road. The trouble starts when you turn off the engine - at that point it starts pumping water out through the pressure cap. No longer as violently as before, but still enough to cause problems.
The guy at Austec reckons that head gasket failures are very rare on this engine, and really doubts that this is the problem. Could be a cracked lining or block. Either way, things look grim....
Austec Racing have had it for just over 3 weeks now. After replacing the thermostat and pressure cap, and addressing a problem with the radiator bleed screw, the problem remains.
The strange thing is that the car doesn't overheat, even after 30-40 minutes on the road. The trouble starts when you turn off the engine - at that point it starts pumping water out through the pressure cap. No longer as violently as before, but still enough to cause problems.
The guy at Austec reckons that head gasket failures are very rare on this engine, and really doubts that this is the problem. Could be a cracked lining or block. Either way, things look grim....
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