Fuel Leak - which parts to buy??
Discussion
Hi all! I went to start up the car yesterday and after the fuel pump made a different noise than usual, I smelt a strong smell of fuel in the garage.
Upon closer inspection it seems that when the pump pressures the system, fuel is leaking at a fairly high rate from the joint around the rear suspension. I think to be safe I will simply replace everything downstream of the pump, but notice that on my car I seem to have rubber feed and return lines running the length of the car. Should this be the case? I know the original setup used copper pipe with rubber joints. Is there a best practice way to replace the setup?
I'd like to do the work on Friday so need to get parts ordered today, but am not sure what I need to order. How much rubber and how much copper. Then how many jubilees? Anything else I might need?? Thanks!
Also, rather than drain the tank, can I just clamp the pump feed pipe?
Upon closer inspection it seems that when the pump pressures the system, fuel is leaking at a fairly high rate from the joint around the rear suspension. I think to be safe I will simply replace everything downstream of the pump, but notice that on my car I seem to have rubber feed and return lines running the length of the car. Should this be the case? I know the original setup used copper pipe with rubber joints. Is there a best practice way to replace the setup?
I'd like to do the work on Friday so need to get parts ordered today, but am not sure what I need to order. How much rubber and how much copper. Then how many jubilees? Anything else I might need?? Thanks!
Also, rather than drain the tank, can I just clamp the pump feed pipe?
As you say there are usually 2 copper 8mm lengths used then rubber connects to these, someone has probably changed them before.
I personally cant see a problem in complete rubber lengths if its very high quality hose, i prefer to see no joints myself.
Replacing the copper along the chassis is a real pita.
At least rubber complete lengths can be inspected and changed fairly easily, it is a tough decision with many different opinions.
Plenty of threads on this in the chim section.
You may be confusing the rubber lines for the fuel tank vent circuit which also runs down the chassis.
I personally cant see a problem in complete rubber lengths if its very high quality hose, i prefer to see no joints myself.
Replacing the copper along the chassis is a real pita.
At least rubber complete lengths can be inspected and changed fairly easily, it is a tough decision with many different opinions.
Plenty of threads on this in the chim section.
You may be confusing the rubber lines for the fuel tank vent circuit which also runs down the chassis.
Edited by Belle427 on Wednesday 27th June 09:26
Make sure you buy decent hose. There's a sticky in the S forum from Southways regarding sub standard stuff.
Gates Baracade is always well regarded - genuine stuff of course.
How old are the fuel lines?
Have you seen where it is leaking from? Could it just be a loose clip?
Proper hose clips - ie not wormdrive / Jubilee style are a must too - imho.
Gates Baracade is always well regarded - genuine stuff of course.
How old are the fuel lines?
Have you seen where it is leaking from? Could it just be a loose clip?
Proper hose clips - ie not wormdrive / Jubilee style are a must too - imho.
Steve_D said:
I would hope you have a part rubber part copper system as the Gates Barricade is about £15 a meter.
Can't help on the actual lengths (as I've not actually measured them) but you will need about 10 clips, copper (or better still Cunifer), hose, fuel filter.
Steve
Copper is probably not a great idea with the ethanol content of petrol, but there seems to be lots of talk and little fact, Kunifer may or may not be better. Best for the OP to do some research and make their own decision. The main issue seems to be that the ethanol breaks down in to ethanoic/acetic acid if water is absorbed by the fuel which can in turn corrode copper. Can't help on the actual lengths (as I've not actually measured them) but you will need about 10 clips, copper (or better still Cunifer), hose, fuel filter.
Steve
Belle427 said:
As you say there are usually 2 copper 8mm lengths used then rubber connects to these, someone has probably changed them before.
I personally cant see a problem in complete rubber lengths if its very high quality hose, i prefer to see no joints myself.
Replacing the copper along the chassis is a real pita.
At least rubber complete lengths can be inspected and changed fairly easily, it is a tough decision with many different opinions.
Plenty of threads on this in the chim section.
You may be confusing the rubber lines for the fuel tank vent circuit which also runs down the chassis.
Hmm that's a fair point actually.. I deleted the carbon canister years ago but the vent is at the nose of the car so the hose will be there somewhere. I expect I'll have to take the rear wheel and exhaust off to get a better look.. Any idea where the original copper pipes should be? I'm guessing nearside chassis backbone top tube?I personally cant see a problem in complete rubber lengths if its very high quality hose, i prefer to see no joints myself.
Replacing the copper along the chassis is a real pita.
At least rubber complete lengths can be inspected and changed fairly easily, it is a tough decision with many different opinions.
Plenty of threads on this in the chim section.
You may be confusing the rubber lines for the fuel tank vent circuit which also runs down the chassis.
Edited by Belle427 on Wednesday 27th June 09:26
Thanks for the recommendation guys, I'll make sure to order the Cohline pipe!
Thanks chaps, I had to pull of the rear wheel, exhaust and ARB to get proper access but once there I simply removed both rubber hoses and fuel filter and replaced with new. Quite a nice little job in the sun but all seems to be running well now. There must have been a small drop in fuel pressure because the car feels like it's running better now! Also, it looked like the filter hadn't been changed in years - despite garages claiming they had so do check yours.. Another interesting nugget of information was that with 3/4 tank of fuel, I could disconnect the pump pressure lines without clamping anything and no fuel came through so no need to drain the tank or even clamp the line! With bosch 044 pump this is...
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