BTR diff removal
Discussion
Trying to remove my diff to change the bushes. How on Earth do you remove the lock nuts at the back of the flange that hold the front mounts on. They are impossibly tight, and there is not enough room to undo them with a breaker bar because of the chassis rails.
Also, is there meant to be axial movement in the output shafts. Can the bearings be changed easily?
Also, is there meant to be axial movement in the output shafts. Can the bearings be changed easily?
Got it out now, and closer inspection shows there is radial movement in the output shafts. The car may as well go for scrap, as there is now way I can afford a new or reconditioned diff 
.
There is no backlash when turning the input. Has anyone successfully changed the bearings themselves?
.There is no backlash when turning the input. Has anyone successfully changed the bearings themselves?
PhysDoc said:
Got it out now, and closer inspection shows there is radial movement in the output shafts. The car may as well go for scrap, as there is now way I can afford a new or reconditioned diff .
There is no backlash when turning the input. Has anyone successfully changed the bearings themselves?
Radial play in the output flanges wont be bearings anyway .There is no backlash when turning the input. Has anyone successfully changed the bearings themselves?
Sardonicus said:
Radial play in the output flanges wont be bearings anyway
Why not? Surely there are output bearings in the outer casing that the output shafts run in?Edit: I suspect they live in the aluminium pieces on each side that look like they screw in.
Edited by PhysDoc on Tuesday 17th July 16:39
PhysDoc said:
Sardonicus said:
Radial play in the output flanges wont be bearings anyway
Why not? Surely there are output bearings in the outer casing that the output shafts run in?Edit: I suspect they live in the aluminium pieces on each side that look like they screw in.
Edited by PhysDoc on Tuesday 17th July 16:39
https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-0...
I think Simon means there will be wear at the inner end inside the diff.
You can have yours overhauled by Readman Racing which should be a lot cheaper than a new one.
http://www.readmanracing.co.uk/parts4sale.php
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 17th July 17:36
I didn't mean angular play. There is movement fore and aft, up and down, and in and out, but no more rotational play than I'd expect.
I phoned Readman racing; he said he was in Canada. Kinda need it doing reasonably quickly because it's my daily driver. Phoned The Gearbox Man, whose labour charges sounded very reasonable, though still 2 to 3 weeks, but that sounds my best option. Or, just put it back in and put up with the clunking.
I phoned Readman racing; he said he was in Canada. Kinda need it doing reasonably quickly because it's my daily driver. Phoned The Gearbox Man, whose labour charges sounded very reasonable, though still 2 to 3 weeks, but that sounds my best option. Or, just put it back in and put up with the clunking.
Edited by PhysDoc on Tuesday 17th July 19:12
Decided the diff is going back in as-is, and I'm just going to change the driveshafts. They were changed only 2 years ago, but be that as it may, they already seem to have a lot of play in them.
However, I've undone all six bolts on the outboard cv joint on the rhs, but it WILL NOT come off the hub. Anyone else had this before I have to rip the hubs apart too, just to separate the cv joint, which should just fall off.
Also, how on Earth do people remove the top bush? I've tried today to make a puller, but it just buckled it.
However, I've undone all six bolts on the outboard cv joint on the rhs, but it WILL NOT come off the hub. Anyone else had this before I have to rip the hubs apart too, just to separate the cv joint, which should just fall off.
Also, how on Earth do people remove the top bush? I've tried today to make a puller, but it just buckled it.
PhysDoc said:
.......However, I've undone all six bolts on the outboard cv joint on the rhs, but it WILL NOT come off the hub. Anyone else had this before I have to rip the hubs apart too, just to separate the cv joint, which should just fall off.
Also, how on Earth do people remove the top bush? I've tried today to make a puller, but it just buckled it.
As you say the CV should come off so it just needs persuading.Also, how on Earth do people remove the top bush? I've tried today to make a puller, but it just buckled it.
Top bush.
Buy a set of hole saws with an extension shaft. Use this to saw out the rubber. You will need to attack it from both wheel arches. You will probably need a corded drill as it is quite hard work.
This will leave just the steel outer of the bush. You can use a hacksaw to cut through the sleeve then with a chisel collapse it in on itself. When I do them I use a die grinder with a carbide burr instead of the hacksaw as it is much faster.
Steve
Steve_D said:
As you say the CV should come off so it just needs persuading.
Top bush.
Buy a set of hole saws with an extension shaft. Use this to saw out the rubber. You will need to attack it from both wheel arches. You will probably need a corded drill as it is quite hard work.
This will leave just the steel outer of the bush. You can use a hacksaw to cut through the sleeve then with a chisel collapse it in on itself. When I do them I use a die grinder with a carbide burr instead of the hacksaw as it is much faster.
Steve
The CV joint will not budge. I jammed two screwdrivers in the inboard cv joint bolt holes, jammed a bar between them and turned the hub nut with a 3/4 drive breaker bar. It broke the screwdriver. I checked myself several times to check I had not left a bolt in because I cannot understand how it can be jammed on: it defies reason!Top bush.
Buy a set of hole saws with an extension shaft. Use this to saw out the rubber. You will need to attack it from both wheel arches. You will probably need a corded drill as it is quite hard work.
This will leave just the steel outer of the bush. You can use a hacksaw to cut through the sleeve then with a chisel collapse it in on itself. When I do them I use a die grinder with a carbide burr instead of the hacksaw as it is much faster.
Steve
Going to try make a more substantial bush puller tomorrow, and if that fails I'll do the hole saws. We have a die grinder. Thanks very much for the suggestion
.Edited by PhysDoc on Wednesday 18th July 21:14
Edited by PhysDoc on Wednesday 18th July 21:20
TwinKam said:
Hmm, I've never tried to free a joint that way! You need to be tapping the outside of the joint (on the gaiter retaining ridge) with a hammer and a brass drift to 'tip' it off the flange.
Yes, tried that first of course. Did not budge. For some reason it is well and truly vulcanised onto the flange.
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