AJP Tappet/Shim Valve adjustments

[Wolvesboy]

Hi All,
Sorry re the long thread but I'm a little confused.

I need help with clarifying the following please:

1) Can somebody please post some newer photos of the "cam sprocket retaining tool" used as all older photos are seemingly inaccessible (photo bucket etc). Does it actually stop the sprocket from rotating or just keeps it in place? The manual states "slide" the sprocket over the tool, after the cam is moved 1 1/2 teeth along.

2) It seems a faff using the front two lobes then the back two then 1&1/2 teeth along before the cam is taken off. Is this really necessary? What about finding proper TDC as other cars do.


I have adjusted valves before on my motorbikes but not like this! Any help, advice would be greatly appreciated.

[GT6k]

Photo of the sprocket tool attached, it is just there to hold everything in place, I also zip tie the chain to the spocket.

I strongly suggest you follow the manual to the letter, the AJP is very very intolerant of (being diplomatic) 'poorly thought out' maintenance. I am not suggesting you are anything short of expert, its just that it can bite you very easily and expensively.

I am doing this job at the moment, i find the main thing is to have enough cloths to wipe the sweat out of my eyes as I concentrate on not dropping anything into the timing case or other helpfully inviting orifices. I am also going to re time the cams to equal overlap and have just constructed a dead stop based on Jules instructions (a bolt through an old spark plug).

[ukkid35]

GT6k said:

I am also going to re time the cams to equal overlap and have just constructed a dead stop based on Jules instructions (a bolt through an old spark plug).

I strongly recommend Tanguero's suggestion of using a tube in the sparkplug hole and detergent film at the end

I was extremely dubious but it is in fact very sensitive and repeatable

I used a much smaller diameter transparent tube in the observable end which magnifies the effect even more

The film doesn't stay stationary at all, it either moves in or out, with no dead spot

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[GT6k]

Hi Paul, Yes i tried that last time but just couldn't get it to work. There seemed to be too much leakage so the bubble kept moving around and never twice returned to the same place. I must admit i don't like poking things into the cylinder so would prefer the bubble tube solution, maybe i'll try again.

[Wolvesboy]

Ahhhhh! The light has shone on me! Thanks UKKid!

I now understand why the cam is measured either even or 1.5mm and then marked - I didn't realise the cam could be moved around the sprocket to adjust the timing! I just did not add up that the cam was moved, measured, marked and moved again before being dismantled. It all makes sense now with the four bolt holes having a groove to move along!

Now got to work out the firing order and which cam lobe applies to Inlet or Exhaust for each bank.

Im not particularly looking forward to the shim/valve measuring process, especially if new shims are required. I've already waited 4 weeks for a new starter motor clutch to arrive without success. Snail mail from the UK I think.

Awesome forum again!

[ukkid35]

GT6k said:

...as I concentrate on not dropping anything into the timing case or other helpfully inviting orifices.

As Ian says, it is really important to avoid dropping anything down the timing cover

Otherwise you'll have to turn the car upside down and give it a good shake

It's also important to torque all the bolts correctly and use threadlock where needed

If a cam sprocket comes lose it really won't be pretty