L322 @ approx 120k?
Discussion
- If a V8 petrol look for oil seepage and leaks around the front of the engine - the internal gaskets that cause this leak are cheap; the labour isn't!
- Try driving along up a gentle incline on light throttle so the gearbox is pulling in a high gear. Any grumbling noises from underneath could well be a knackered torque converter - this means a replacement and a gearbox rebuild for £2-3k (go on - ask me how I know...).
- Check the air suspension works and lifts up and down smartly without hesitating.
- Check the autobox engages Drive and Reverse smartly without any clunking.
- Check the aircon works and make sure it continues to do so for a good 20-30 minutes.
- Check that low ratio engages without any issues
- Make sure the CD changer (in the glovebox) and the cassette player (behind the main radio panel) work.
And finally and most importantly, have someone else who is a bit more impartial than you go along for the test drive, so they can objectively view the interior and the performance as you drive along grinning like an idiot and going " I want this; I want this".
Or was that just me?
- Try driving along up a gentle incline on light throttle so the gearbox is pulling in a high gear. Any grumbling noises from underneath could well be a knackered torque converter - this means a replacement and a gearbox rebuild for £2-3k (go on - ask me how I know...).
- Check the air suspension works and lifts up and down smartly without hesitating.
- Check the autobox engages Drive and Reverse smartly without any clunking.
- Check the aircon works and make sure it continues to do so for a good 20-30 minutes.
- Check that low ratio engages without any issues
- Make sure the CD changer (in the glovebox) and the cassette player (behind the main radio panel) work.
And finally and most importantly, have someone else who is a bit more impartial than you go along for the test drive, so they can objectively view the interior and the performance as you drive along grinning like an idiot and going " I want this; I want this".
Or was that just me?
Do you want modern auto connectivity such as Bluetooth and apple car play? The Audio systems on L322s are very complicated and budget at least a grand if you want to convert to a more modern double din system and that is the up to 05. Probably even more complicated on the face lift.
Prices on L322s really are tumbling. They start from high twos now (Not that you would want to buy one for that)
Prices on L322s really are tumbling. They start from high twos now (Not that you would want to buy one for that)
I bought mine 6 years ago at 40k miles, it's now on 105k and the decision I have reached is to run it until it falls apart. Current annual mileage is about 6k so I reckon it's easily got another 6 years in it, up to c.150k.
I've had very little trouble at all with it over the 6 years, expenditure outside routine servicing etc has probably been <£1000 in total, or £150 per year if you prefer!
I've had very little trouble at all with it over the 6 years, expenditure outside routine servicing etc has probably been <£1000 in total, or £150 per year if you prefer!
Hoyleyboyley said:
Thanks - looking at higher mileage as I've been looking to get as late a car as possible.
10 plate or newer, last of the L322s where most of the issues *seem* to have been resolved (at least that's the plan!)
Never make that assumption with anything that Land Rover have built.10 plate or newer, last of the L322s where most of the issues *seem* to have been resolved (at least that's the plan!)
Hoyleyboyley said:
Thanks - looking at higher mileage as I've been looking to get as late a car as possible.
10 plate or newer, last of the L322s where most of the issues *seem* to have been resolved (at least that's the plan!)
Mine will be going up for sale shortly. I bought it for my wife at the start of this year with a view to keeping it until it falls apart but due to a change in her job it means she needs a 7 seater so am replacing it with a Discovery 4.10 plate or newer, last of the L322s where most of the issues *seem* to have been resolved (at least that's the plan!)
Drop me a PM if you'd like to know more.
They are wonderful, if you get a good one.
That could be a very simple 2 minute fix. Where the suspension strut comes through into engine bay there is a cap you can take off with a torque screw- take this off and check wiring (may need to remove insulation tape). The wires here are prone to snapping as they are brittle and a little too short. If it is broken, solder some new wire and it will be fixed. Happened 3 or 4 times to me until I bought a new section of improved wire from LR. Really is an easy fix
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