Looking for ideas!
Looking for ideas!
Author
Discussion

reevsy

Original Poster:

9 posts

208 months

Wednesday 1st August 2018
quotequote all
Looking for ideas? I have to remove a long stub from my cylinder block after a blown head gasket burned it through level with the head! All suggestions welcome well most of them.

Edited by reevsy on Wednesday 1st August 21:50

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

315 months

Wednesday 1st August 2018
quotequote all
Maybe a trick of the light but I don't see a stud in that hole. Is it actually flush with the head? If so, you could consider tapping it off center with a drift to ease it out, or welding a nut to it (this could easily damage the block and need it resurfacing). The stud should unscrew quite easily since there is now no tension on it.

227bhp

10,203 posts

159 months

Wednesday 1st August 2018
quotequote all
What is a 'long stub'?
Top lurking btw.

Graunching_dave

85 posts

106 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
What engine is that?

paintman

7,861 posts

221 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
Drill a slot in it with a Dremel to take a screwdriver blade. Done that a few times in the past.

227bhp

10,203 posts

159 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
No word from the OP.
Looking at it with fresh eyes I think it's a coolant carrying sleeve which was screwed in and is now flush with the top of the block, several tools spring to mind:
A left handed thread tap or drill might grab it.
These:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4236685/?g...

Or these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Snap-on-15-Pcs-Screw-Extr...

Or just Google broken stud extractor/removal.

reevsy

Original Poster:

9 posts

208 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
the Engine is a 1927 Rolls 20 the stud is just below the surface in a tube passing through the block down into the crank case. Suspect the gasses from the blown head gasket heated the stud to the point it stretched and parted. Can’t get a dremol in not much clearance between the wall of the tube and the stud which is on of the studs holding the cylinder head Down. The engine is in very good condition it’s in three parts the cylinder head, the block, and the chest at the bottom. The studs are not rusted in just need to find a way to grip this damaged one!

Peanut Gallery

2,746 posts

141 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
Random idea - center punch a decent mark into the middle of the stud, possibly even a gentle drill, then use an impact driver with a philips screwdriver head?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-SCREWDRIVER-WITH...

227bhp

10,203 posts

159 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
Drill it and use a broken stud removal tool.
If it's seized so solid that its snapped no lightweight ideas will work.

HustleRussell

26,708 posts

191 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
Centre punch it

Try to drill a hole down the middle of it with a left-handed drill bit

You might find it tries to unwind as you drill it, if it doesn't unwind you have created a hole for an EZ-out or similar.

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

315 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
227bhp said:
If it's seized so solid that its snapped no lightweight ideas will work.
Apparently it was burned through, not snapped.

voicey

2,494 posts

218 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
HustleRussell said:
Centre punch it

Try to drill a hole down the middle of it with a left-handed drill bit

You might find it tries to unwind as you drill it, if it doesn't unwind you have created a hole for an EZ-out or similar.
This all day long. LH drill bits are brilliant for getting snapped fasteners out.

paintman

7,861 posts

221 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
reevsy said:
the Engine is a 1927 Rolls 20 the stud is just below the surface in a tube passing through the block down into the crank case. Suspect the gasses from the blown head gasket heated the stud to the point it stretched and parted. Can’t get a dremol in not much clearance between the wall of the tube and the stud which is on of the studs holding the cylinder head Down. The engine is in very good condition it’s in three parts the cylinder head, the block, and the chest at the bottom. The studs are not rusted in just need to find a way to grip this damaged one!
Not even using the flexible extension?

227bhp

10,203 posts

159 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
227bhp said:
If it's seized so solid that its snapped no lightweight ideas will work.
Apparently it was burned through, not snapped.
Sorry you're right, difficult to comprehend that happening I suppose.

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

315 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
227bhp said:
difficult to comprehend that happening
Yes. Seems more likely it has suffered accelerated corrosion from heat + acidic water rather than literally burned, and we don't know whether it failed when the nut was removed or when the stud was being taken out of the block, but either way I suppose it had been significantly weakened.

reevsy

Original Poster:

9 posts

208 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
quotequote all
The stud was blown out into the rocker housing. This is the stud.

reevsy

Original Poster:

9 posts

208 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
quotequote all
And the head gasket

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

315 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
quotequote all
reevsy said:
The stud was blown out into the rocker housing. This is the stud.
Wow.

Is the broken end of the stud corroded similarly? That would make it very difficult to remove.

How bad is the damage to the head and block? If it's anything like the corrosion on that stud, I wonder whether the castings have also been scrapped.

reevsy

Original Poster:

9 posts

208 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
quotequote all
Thankfully the block is good with no damage to the face or the head.

reevsy

Original Poster:

9 posts

208 months

Sunday 12th August 2018
quotequote all
So! and it may help others. I made a tube that just fitted inside the recess about 1mm clearance, this tube was drilled slightly smaller than the broken stud itself but when heated and expanded slid over the stud and down the stud with a genital tap. Allowed it to go cold and shrink onto the offending stud, with a little help from a light tapping with hammer the stud released. 🙂