Big end bolt head buggered!

[Erich Stahler]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 04 August 2018 at 01:30

[paintman]

Irwin bolt grip nut removers.
If all else fails then removing its head & taking the cap off the rod to expose the remains may allow you to use a stud extractor. I've removed head bolts that way - drilled as a cutting disc is going to throw crap everywhere - & once the tension is off the remains have come out with little effort.
I have seen it suggested to hit the bolt head to shock the thread to release it which has been used successfully but I've never tried it.

Edited by paintman on Wednesday 1st August 21:56

[tapkaJohnD]

Normally, I'd say, weld another bolt to the rounded head. Use that to turn the bid end bolt, the heat will help loosen it
The con rod will get hot, but too hot???

John

[stevieturbo]

Irwin nut extractors as mentioned, or hammer a slightly smaller socket on. It's just a rod bolt so really should not be tight at all.

Although one would wonder how the F someone got it into that mess in the first place.

[Kccv23highliftcam]

Second the Irwin rounded bolt head kit [parts one AND two]

out of interest what oil do you use??

[GreenV8S]

Is it too late for a six point flank drive socket? If so I'd try to get a stillson wrench on it if you can get access. Otherwise the welding idea would be a fallback. You'd need to protect the whole area from spatter before welding.

[Boosted LS1]

Irwins or Bluepoint will loosen that in a jiffy.

[99hjhm]

Read the instructions of the fasteners, the rod bore hosing should be checked and probably resized after fitting the ARP bolts. I would say it’s poor practice to do what you want to do and asking for failure.

[TekoTime]

When fitting the ARP bolts bear in mind that the heads are 3/8" (9.5 mm) rather than 10 mm. I nearly stripped one of mine using a 10 mm socket.

[Mignon]

That's not buggered! It's barely scratched. Bang a slightly smaller than stock socket on it. 1/2" if it's a 13mm etc. A 6 point or surface drive socket will take it straight off.

[njw1]

Mignon said:

That's not buggered! It's barely scratched. Bang a slightly smaller than stock socket on it. 1/2" if it's a 13mm etc. A 6 point or surface drive socket will take it straight off.

^^^This!

[stevieturbo]

I'd struggle to believe an Irwin would not remove that.

Who the hell fitted it ? Maybe some moron loctited it or something ? Might be worth trying some heat before next attempt ( although welding will impart some heat )

[TooMany2cvs]

stevieturbo said:

I'd struggle to believe an Irwin would not remove that.

Agreed.

Go down a size in the Irwins.

I've used 'em to remove HIDEOUSLY rusted exhaust manifold nuts, and to remove perfectly round-edged hex bolts with the ball end of a key snapped off...

[eliot]

Erich Stahler said:

Neither a six point socket or an Erwin nut remover worked, getting worse, now it's weld on a nut time!

I assume you are not using a poundland socket set? This is where a few extra quid makes a difference and saves a heap of grief

[Boosted LS1]

Can you use a cutting disc?

[stevieturbo]

How fking long does it take to undo a simple bolt !!! LOL

[Boosted LS1]

^ You need a lump hammer and a bloke with triceps ;-)

[227bhp]

Ukkid will have his head shims worked out before this comes off

[99hjhm]

227bhp said:

Ukkid will have his head shims worked out before this comes off

lol.

[Erich Stahler]

Those people that responded with constructive suggestion thank you, the problem has been resolved now.

The rest of you should be ashamed of yourselves as you are really diluting the effectiveness of Pistonheads as an excellent resource for like minded petrolheads to share information, ideas and generally network!

Keep it up and you will succeed in ruining an excellent and long running online community!