Light weight clutch replacement?
Light weight clutch replacement?
Author
Discussion

Juddder

Original Poster:

949 posts

206 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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So the Cerbera is back from Winter storage and I did an hour of 20mph - 30mph rush hour traffic in central London yesterday and honestly the heavy clutch almost killed me by the end of it.

Anyone got a recommendation on what would be a good light weight replacement clutch to use that would suit city driving as well as the normal blasts up and down the motorway?

Going through Camden at 20mph continually changing between 1st and 2nd while watching the temperature gauge complain at ~ 95-100oC and trying to get any kind of speed to introduce air into the engine isn't fun wink


TwinKam

3,449 posts

117 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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Some of the Chim guys have fitted vacuum assist servos, most recently 'phazed' I believe, there is a thread on PH about it.

Shanksy87

389 posts

144 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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How fresh is your clutch? They tend to go heavier as they wear and i've always considered the cerb clutch to be medium-light due to being mutli-plate.

I've used knackered single plate clutches and they really do give leg ache, so i'm wondering is something wrong with yours, or just tired, as opposed to needing something different.

Just a thought smile

Juddder

Original Poster:

949 posts

206 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
quotequote all
Shanksy87 said:
How fresh is your clutch? They tend to go heavier as they wear and i've always considered the cerb clutch to be medium-light due to being mutli-plate.

I've used knackered single plate clutches and they really do give leg ache, so i'm wondering is something wrong with yours, or just tired, as opposed to needing something different.

Just a thought smile
Thanks both for the replies

Yes I think you might be right that it's the clutch on it's way out, rather than just being heavy full stop - I can't remember it being _such_ a pain as it is recently and the bite point is quite high

I've emailed Helix Autosport and AP Racing to see if they are still doing their Cerbera clutches - else it's the refurb route as per this thread

[although this might be more difficult as I'd have to convince my local garage to keep it on the ramp while they do..]

Jhonno

6,430 posts

163 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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I just had mine refurbished by Clutchfix.. Ben Williams there is a great guy to deal with. Knows his stuff.

FarmyardPants

4,283 posts

240 months

Thursday 2nd August 2018
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It’s the age of the clutch. A new AP clutch pack is like a ford fiesta to use.

Byff

4,427 posts

283 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
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When my AP clutch went, I was told there was no new clutches available.

Managed to source a Helix and mine is very heavy compared to the AP. So I've had the AP rebuilt by Ben at Clutchfix so I have a spare should I need it.

ukkid35

6,378 posts

195 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
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FarmyardPants said:
It’s the age of the clutch. A new AP clutch pack is like a ford fiesta to use.
Agreed

Also the clutch slave makes a huge difference

The new RP slave is much lighter to use than the original with new seals (although there does seem to be a lot of variation in the seals themselves)

Juddder

Original Poster:

949 posts

206 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
Agreed

Also the clutch slave makes a huge difference

The new RP slave is much lighter to use than the original with new seals (although there does seem to be a lot of variation in the seals themselves)
Thanks Paul - this one?

If I'm getting it taken apart then I might as well upgrade everything at the same time (*budget depending!)

Juddder

Original Poster:

949 posts

206 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
@Paul - while I'm at this I remember your post about replacing the Spigot Bearing at the same time

Just checking that the part is this one as I'll get one of those too...


ukkid35

6,378 posts

195 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
Juddder said:
@Paul - while I'm at this I remember your post about replacing the Spigot Bearing at the same time

Just checking that the part is this one as I'll get one of those too...

Exactly

Much cheaper at BurtonPower

If you need to borrow the slide hammer removal tool you are welcome but I am at EdFest for the next ten days

Jhonno

6,430 posts

163 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
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ukkid35 said:
Exactly

Much cheaper at BurtonPower

If you need to borrow the slide hammer removal tool you are welcome but I am at EdFest for the next ten days
Even cheaper here..

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_...

You need the HK1520 2RS..

ukkid35

6,378 posts

195 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
Jhonno said:
Even cheaper here..

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_...

You need the HK1520 2RS..
Very good find

The advantage of Burton Power is that you can actually buy them over the counter if you need one in an emergency

http://www.burtonpower.com/crank-spigot-bearing-21...

Ony a tube ride away for me so very handy indeed

Byker28i

82,719 posts

239 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
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FarmyardPants said:
It’s the age of the clutch. A new AP clutch pack is like a ford fiesta to use.
Byff said:
When my AP clutch went, I was told there was no new clutches available.

Managed to source a Helix and mine is very heavy compared to the AP. So I've had the AP rebuilt by Ben at Clutchfix so I have a spare should I need it.
I swapped my broken AP for a helix and it's half the effort. After a days driving with the original clutch you certainly felt it but I don't notice now.

Jhonno

6,430 posts

163 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
Jhonno said:
Even cheaper here..

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_...

You need the HK1520 2RS..
Very good find

The advantage of Burton Power is that you can actually buy them over the counter if you need one in an emergency

http://www.burtonpower.com/crank-spigot-bearing-21...

Ony a tube ride away for me so very handy indeed
ukkid35 said:
Jhonno said:
Even cheaper here..

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_...

You need the HK1520 2RS..
Very good find

The advantage of Burton Power is that you can actually buy them over the counter if you need one in an emergency

http://www.burtonpower.com/crank-spigot-bearing-21...

Ony a tube ride away for me so very handy indeed
Just checked.. The postage is the expensive part with Burton, bearing itself is cheaper.. I bought one from there and it came to £11 or something. Sure of it.. Plus a very minor point, I am sure I found the Burton one's ID is actually 15.07mm (iirc). the one I've used is the same as the OEM one @15mm. I am sure the 0.07 won't make a difference in reality, as you have shown by using it.

https://www.noc.ua/online-catalog-bearings/itemdes...

Juddder

Original Poster:

949 posts

206 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
Thanks for the help here everyone

So Simply Bearings have a Budget bearing for £5.39 ex VAT and a branded bearing for £8.82 ex VAT so for the peace of mind I spent the extra cash and included free 2 day shipping it was £9.94 total

Also one of the other Cerbera owners here messaged me about a RP Clutch Slave that they had going spare, so I've added that to the purchase list (*it will need new seals if anyone has ever bought them?)

Lastly I've been chatting over email with Ben @ Clutch Fix and he can refurb the clutch when it is out and have it posted back the same evening

Sounds like a plan is coming together..

I just need to either get my local garage to do the work or find a handy clutch specialist in West London who'd be happy to do it for me if anyone has any recommendations?

ukkid35

6,378 posts

195 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
I am the only person I know of who always removes the exhaust manifolds in order to remove the gearbox

Most people lever the very fragile lightweight manifolds out of the way to extricate the gearbox, and then do the same to refit it, which is even more difficult (you need to depress the clutch - using an alignment tool doesn't do the trick IMHO)

So the cost of a clutch job is highly dependent on the method used (you have to remove the water rails to drop the manifolds)

Pay someone else to change your clutch, and some weeks later your manifolds crack and leak - totally unrelated events!

pmessling

2,313 posts

225 months

Friday 3rd August 2018
quotequote all
I removed the exhausts as well Paul. I tried with the exhaust on when I done mine and after cursing not having removed them I did.

The RP slave will have to be sent away for new seals. You can’t get the seals separate, well that was certainly the case when I was hunting for seals.

Juddder

Original Poster:

949 posts

206 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
quotequote all
pmessling said:
I removed the exhausts as well Paul. I tried with the exhaust on when I done mine and after cursing not having removed them I did.

The RP slave will have to be sent away for new seals. You can’t get the seals separate, well that was certainly the case when I was hunting for seals.
Thanks both - RP's website seems to point to only Racing Green as being the supplier of their parts - anyone know where I should get in touch with them to get the slave seals re-done??


TwinKam

3,449 posts

117 months

Saturday 4th August 2018
quotequote all
Juddder said:
pmessling said:
I removed the exhausts as well Paul. I tried with the exhaust on when I done mine and after cursing not having removed them I did.

The RP slave will have to be sent away for new seals. You can’t get the seals separate, well that was certainly the case when I was hunting for seals.
Thanks both - RP's website seems to point to only Racing Green as being the supplier of their parts - anyone know where I should get in touch with them to get the slave seals re-done??

Aren't 'Racing Green' and 'TVR Parts Ltd' one and the same now?