temperature sender adapter size
Discussion
2gins said:
The gauge used to work but now it barely moves off the stop. Everything else is fine. Shorted out the wire, indicates sender is dead.
The sender sits in a spacer which places the detector surface out of the coolant flow, in a dead space. Sometimes air finds its way into the sender spacer causing the sender to indicate a very low reading. The sender location is also vulnerable to an upward draft of air, further cooling the sender. It is for this reason that owners do the Rover sender mod.I had this problem for many years, I did once loosen the sender to bleed coolant back into the spacer. This worked for a while but the very low reading soon returned. It's just bad design, changing the sender won't eliminate the poor design
Thanks, I did stumble across some of those posts but got bogged down when the discussion turned to some requirement to match the gauge to the sender and have the whole lot sent away for calibration; that and some apparent confusion over what size adapters to use and where to source the gauge, what size resistor to use and the effect of the calibration...
I keep the car a mile from the house, as I live in a converted flat and have no driveway. Storage is short, my soldering gear is at the back of the under-stairs cupboard behind all of her coats, decorating stuff, ladder, loads of junk, christmas decorations etc. Working on the car is a faff and I was hoping to keep it simple. Every job requires an hour to get stuff out, get down there, get home and pack up. I have 3-4 hr slots in between work and being a Dad. Should have been 1 out, 1 in, done. I had reckoned without galvanic corrosion and not having the right size spanner or I'd have had it done this morning.
I keep the car a mile from the house, as I live in a converted flat and have no driveway. Storage is short, my soldering gear is at the back of the under-stairs cupboard behind all of her coats, decorating stuff, ladder, loads of junk, christmas decorations etc. Working on the car is a faff and I was hoping to keep it simple. Every job requires an hour to get stuff out, get down there, get home and pack up. I have 3-4 hr slots in between work and being a Dad. Should have been 1 out, 1 in, done. I had reckoned without galvanic corrosion and not having the right size spanner or I'd have had it done this morning.
bobfather said:
jojackson4 said:
Or just move it
That doesn't work, it's a different thread size so you would need to add an adaptor which would put the sensor out of the coolant flow and in a high space. That would be guaranteed to fill with air thereby rendering the sender useless
jojackson4 said:
Put mine where the land rover sender was ??
At the top of the inlet manifold next to the ECU temperature sender. Ideal location provided the sender is immersed in the coolant. Did you drill and tap a larger hole? If you add a reducer union the sender will no longer be in the flow and because it will stand vertical above the inlet manifold it will fill with air. These senders don't work unless they are submerged in the coolant, air isn't an effective heat transfer medium.bobfather said:
At the top of the inlet manifold next to the ECU temperature sender. Ideal location provided the sender is immersed in the coolant. Did you drill and tap a larger hole? If you add a reducer union the sender will no longer be in the flow and because it will stand vertical above the inlet manifold it will fill with air. These senders don't work unless they are submerged in the coolant, air isn't an effective heat transfer medium.
Drilled and taped when I opened the inlet out and did away with the heater pipes Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff