Rustpoofing an MX5 cheaply.
Discussion
OK,
A few months back I bought a mint white MK3 MX5, 2010 anniversary model. It had only done 22,000 miles from new, and I am very pleased with it.
It is really just a Sunday toy, a garage queen, so I doubt whether I will even do 2,000 miles a year in it, and I won't go out in bad weather, snow etc.
I have had a quick look underneath with ramps and all seems good, so I fancy treating it with something like Waxoyle spray, Dinatrol or even black underseal spray.
I don't really want to spend much more an £20/30, but I don't mind getting my hands dirty.
Suggestions please...
A few months back I bought a mint white MK3 MX5, 2010 anniversary model. It had only done 22,000 miles from new, and I am very pleased with it.
It is really just a Sunday toy, a garage queen, so I doubt whether I will even do 2,000 miles a year in it, and I won't go out in bad weather, snow etc.
I have had a quick look underneath with ramps and all seems good, so I fancy treating it with something like Waxoyle spray, Dinatrol or even black underseal spray.
I don't really want to spend much more an £20/30, but I don't mind getting my hands dirty.
Suggestions please...
Have a look at THIS STUFF from Bilt Hamber.
A lot easier to use than Waxoil, and apparently a lot more efficient. Goes on dead easy and dries clear.
A lot easier to use than Waxoil, and apparently a lot more efficient. Goes on dead easy and dries clear.
cptsideways said:
Then buy spray cans of the clear waxoyl/underbody wax. Avoid the black stuff if you can from a mess point of view.
I did this to my 55 plate Alfa GT when I got it 9 years ago (although I did use the black stuff, rubber gloves, old clothes and goggles to stop it dripping in my eyes and borrowed a ramp) when it was still low mileage and immaculate.Sold it three years later, but it might be the reason why I still see it on the roads today.
To me this is one of those jobs that if it's worth doing at all, it's worth doing properly. If you aren't able to get the car up high in the air on ramps and properly clean and then dry every nook and cranny and then apply high quality products, then you'd be better off just making sure the underside is regularly cleaned. Take a look at the Bilt Hamber kits too. Loads of info on MX5nutz on this stuff as well.
skyrover said:
Old engine oil sprayed on.
I think this is a good economical idea I used to do it on an old Range Rover and everything else fell off before the chassis rusted . Matbe not even spray but brush it on take it for a long drive so the excess falls off before returning to your drive. Do it every 6 _ 12 months
treeroy said:
Drill holes in the sills so water can run out easy and doesn't get stuck there
Absolutely do not do this. Drilling through the sill means that you've then got to re-protect the bare metal you just created by drilling through it. Since you can't get to the top that's not as easy as it sounds in the long term. All you will succeed in doing with this is creating weak spots for corrosion to start.Just run the damned thing in the summer, make sure you wash it underneath occasionally, make sure you clear the mud from the arches religiously and make sure the drains are clear and it will last forever.
I have the 2006 MX5 as for as rusty cars go the newer mx5s are not bad at all. My mx5 has some rust on one front wheel arch where the plastic has been removed to change a light bulb and hasn't been attached back properly allowing lots of dirt and wetness in. I know some people with BMWs and Lexus near the same year and millage as mine with much more rust.
I would recommend giving the underside a good clean pay particular attention to front wheel arches and the sills. The sills at the back of the car will be worse then at the front. Remove any loose rust and cover with Hammerite Kurust. Once that has gone bluey/black and dried get a tub of waxoyl(dont bother with the spray its s
t) and a paint brush and go over the Kurust. Make sure you don't apply any more than 3-4ml thick. Wait for 1-5 days depending on how humid it is and you should be good to go when dried.
As an extra precaution i would keep drain holes clean with the trombone brush and as i commute daily in mine i remove the wheel arch protection and remove any dirt and dust every 2-3 months or every month in winter. All of that costs no more than £20 and a bit of effort!
Good Luck!
I would recommend giving the underside a good clean pay particular attention to front wheel arches and the sills. The sills at the back of the car will be worse then at the front. Remove any loose rust and cover with Hammerite Kurust. Once that has gone bluey/black and dried get a tub of waxoyl(dont bother with the spray its s
t) and a paint brush and go over the Kurust. Make sure you don't apply any more than 3-4ml thick. Wait for 1-5 days depending on how humid it is and you should be good to go when dried.As an extra precaution i would keep drain holes clean with the trombone brush and as i commute daily in mine i remove the wheel arch protection and remove any dirt and dust every 2-3 months or every month in winter. All of that costs no more than £20 and a bit of effort!
Good Luck!
Edited by Slipperywang on Friday 31st August 16:21
Julian Thompson said:
Absolutely do not do this. Drilling through the sill means that you've then got to re-protect the bare metal you just created by drilling through it. Since you can't get to the top that's not as easy as it sounds in the long term. All you will succeed in doing with this is creating weak spots for corrosion to start.
Just run the damned thing in the summer, make sure you wash it underneath occasionally, make sure you clear the mud from the arches religiously and make sure the drains are clear and it will last forever.
mate of mine did it as soon as he got his mx-5 and its never had rust problems.Just run the damned thing in the summer, make sure you wash it underneath occasionally, make sure you clear the mud from the arches religiously and make sure the drains are clear and it will last forever.
Julian Thompson said:
treeroy said:
mate of mine did it as soon as he got his mx-5 and its never had rust problems.
Understood and pleased to hear - I still stand by my advice, however, that drilling galvanised panels in a water drain area is a *bad* idea.Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff