Help Requied For Changing Clutch Fluid

[comm_SS_V8]

Have just changed the fluid in the car (Engine, Gearbox, and Diff) and have noticed that the Clutch fluid is rather black and probably requires changing. 2 Questions arise from this: 1) I've looked in the Haynes Manual and apart from not identifying the Clutch resevoir in the pictures at the front, within Section 7 (Clutch) it refers to Section 9 for bleeding procedures. I can't find the bleeding procedures in this section or anywhere in the manual. Anyone able to offer some assistance as to how to change this fluid & how to bleed the clutch (or page numbers of the manual would be just as good). Many Thanks. 2) On the filler cap it recommends using DOT 4 for clutch & Break fluid. I've read on the LS1 forums that people have 'upgraded' the fluid to make the clutch easier. Anyone able to offer any suggestions as to what fluid they might be talking about. I guess this refers to the break fluid as well. What do you guys who have the AP breaks use? Is there some 'racing' break fluid that would be better? As always your responses are greatly appreciated. Cheers

[A57 HSV]

Hi Steve, how is the gearbox now, did you use the GM oil? I've heard in the past that changing the clutch fluid is pretty tricky & that the pedal will drop if you get it wrong. This could just have been bulls**t, but I took the easy option of getting it changed at LSV. I'm sure others here will be able to enlighten you.

[comm_SS_V8]

I did use the GM Synchromesh. Will let you know tomorrow how I get on. Car is still on Axle stands so test drive is tomorrow.

[caspy]

Have just changed engine, gearbox and diff to Redline products. Much better gear change (04 VXR 10k) and very tangible difference on the diff!!

[island boy hsv]

Here are three quotes form Australian LS1

1) “ With the standard one you need a deep and long socket to poke into the bell housing to undo the nipple as if you use a normal socket on an extension bar you still might not be able to engage the hex bit and there is a risk of losing the socket inside the bell housing. Ideally what you need is a tube spanner but you might have to cut it off a bit to get its length just right to get into the hole in the bell housing without fouling the tranny tunnel. I would also weld a bit of flat bar to the end at right angles to give better control and some leverage


2) “just make sure you do the nipple up tight, I've had the same problem where the pedal drops overnight but after a few good pumps would come back to normal and the problem was air ingress via the bleed nipple because it wasn't super tight, it wouldn't loose any fluid until it finally came loose and dumped the fluid on morgan park track, I thought I had blown the slave cylinder when I found the nipple loose and I hadn't bled the clucth for two months.”

3) “The clutch slave cylinder is inside the gearbox (or at least the bell housing). Its a very awkward location and Holden have a special tool for the bleeding operation. The bleeder valve is a long nut with a tube down the middle. You have to undo the nut and have something to take the fluid out of the bell housing. The Holden tool has one end that fits around the nut and the other end is a plastic tube for draining the old fluid away. I use a plastic tube that is just the right size to be jammed into the bleed nut. You need to use a long 3/8" or 1/4" drive to loosen the bleed nut because there is not enough clearance to fit a 1/2" drive tool. You then remove the handle of the tool that you use to loosen the bleed nut, leaving the socket there, and jam in one end of the tube down the middle of the socket. Use the socket to loosen and tighten the bleed nut as you bleed the slave cylinder. Some US sites talk about gravity bleeding ie. let the clutch fluid drip out of the bell housing after bleeding but it's not something I would contemplate.

I bleed mine every 5000kms or so as the fluid turns black very quickly through overheating. This even happens with 600 degree racing brake fluid. You will be amazed at how much easier the clutch pedal is to operate once you have changed the fluid. Actually, I'm surprised that no-one seems to have marketed a clutch fluid cooler for the LS1.”


I hope this helps you let me know how it goes!

[uk hsv]

here is the clutch bleed details and the special tool part number...........

www.hsvdriversclub.co.uk/parts/clutch-bleed.pdf

[comm_SS_V8]

Your absolute superstars. Thanks for the info guys.

[island boy hsv]

How did your clutch fluid change go? Does the clutch feel better? Only interested because I will be changin the fluid for the first time in the next couple of weeks.

[GSE]

I want to change the clutch fluid in my Monaro, it looks discoloured, as my brake fluid was. Some time ago, LSV fitted a ripshifter and a heavy duty braided clutch hose - the new hose is less susceptible to heat soak - with the old hose, the clutch pedal would sometimes feel 'mushy' if you were stuck in traffic for a while. The clutch felt lovely and smooth after the new hose was fitted, but it doesn't feel as good now (9000 miles) Does anybody have any photos of the slave cylinder, and access to it? I want to have a go at changing the fluid and bleeding the system myself.

[uk hsv]

the clutch slave cylinder is mounted inside the bell housing and you need a special tool to reach the bleed nipple on it (as shown in the PDF. file.)

A neat thing to have made is an extended bleed nipple. this extended nipple is about 4" long so it pokes outside of the bell housing.

"pomona" has fabricated such a item.............

The standard clutch fluid goes black very quickly after you replace it and acording to the Holden reports it does not affect performance!!!

here is a set of pictures........from the excelent www.ls1.com.au forum....

www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29808&highlight=clutch+bleed

[comm_SS_V8]

Island_Boy_HSV, I didn't have the tools available to do the clutch fluid change. After reading the PDF supplied by uk_hsv I decided against doing it there & then. Thinking about taking it to Picador's as I've got some other things for them to do like change the 2 front engine belts. The Air Conditioning Belt is squeeling on cold/damp mornings and it doesn't look like an easy job to change. I'll also get them to change the break fluid at the same time.

Thanks again for the info and if anyone here successfully manages to change the fluid themselves, I'd be VERY interested.

pomona, any chance you could post some details of your work please?? You could have a market for this...

Cheers.

[comm_SS_V8]

Car's booked in at Picador's for the clutch & brake fluid changes next week.

Anyone know how much fluid I'll need?

Looking to use either "Motul RBF600" or "ATE Super Blue Racing" fluids and just need to know how much to get.

TIA