How do E36 Compacts fare for rust?
Discussion
Not to bad considering they are around twenty years old. I've got/ had several and the only welding needing was to rear jacking points and a front anti roll bar mount. Just look out for the best one you can as they are so cheap. Best starting point is a nice 318ti. I've converted a couple to 2.8 for track use. All easy to do but if you look out for a properly converted car it works out much cheaper ! Beware of badly modified drift cars. What are your plans for one ?
I can't see how there would be any difference with rust but the saloon has the stiffest shell and more importantly different rear suspension which gives better handling.
My e36 has had 3 jacking points welded and the arches were temporally patched after this photo.
Ive ran out of storage for this unfortunately and it has to go, great cars.
My e36 has had 3 jacking points welded and the arches were temporally patched after this photo.
Ive ran out of storage for this unfortunately and it has to go, great cars.
959 said:
I can't see how there would be any difference with rust but the saloon has the stiffest shell and more importantly different rear suspension which gives better handling.
s.
this old chestnut, why is the E30 perceived as an excellent handling car with a huge cult following yet changing the body to a hatch and suddenly the rear suspension is an inferior design to the Z axle is all thats ever talked about.s.
OP im with you on this one, there are still a good number of 318ti that are in considerably better condition than 90% of the other e36 coupe/saloons being sold at 2-3times the price.
Or go for a e46 compact for better than e36 setup!!!
[quote=aka_kerrly]
this old chestnut, why is the E30 perceived as an excellent handling car with a huge cult following yet changing the body to a hatch and suddenly the rear suspension is an inferior design to the Z axle is all thats ever talked about.
Because a lot of people think that the Z axle is better on a e36.
this old chestnut, why is the E30 perceived as an excellent handling car with a huge cult following yet changing the body to a hatch and suddenly the rear suspension is an inferior design to the Z axle is all thats ever talked about.
Because a lot of people think that the Z axle is better on a e36.
I'm not denying the Z axle is a far superior design and certainly does offer handling improvements, just that because the Compact doesn't have a one to not dismiss them completely and give one a go, a 318TI with the 16v lump is likely to be easier to find than a 318IS
Check out the BMW Compact CUP guys and how well those cars run on GAZ suspension an semi slicks! - that said its probably those guys who have used a shed load of cars over the last few years!!!!!!
Check out the BMW Compact CUP guys and how well those cars run on GAZ suspension an semi slicks! - that said its probably those guys who have used a shed load of cars over the last few years!!!!!!
I had an £600 N-reg compact with plenty on the clock and didnt really have any rust issues in 3 years owning it.
The bottom edge/return of the front ring, pass side, was dropping off but that's non-structural and easy to fix with basic repair skills or a new wing, as well as being far enough away from suspension/seat mounts not to be an mot issue.
Daniel
The bottom edge/return of the front ring, pass side, was dropping off but that's non-structural and easy to fix with basic repair skills or a new wing, as well as being far enough away from suspension/seat mounts not to be an mot issue.
Daniel
Bringing up a fairly old post, buuuuut.
E36 compact can be better than others as there seems to be a fair few younger models on X plates etc. Seem to rust in the same places as other E36, such as all four jacking points and the anti roll bar mounts.
Anti roll bar mounts rust because the constant flexing on them breaks the paint and also one edge is exposed which causes it to collect mud. Fairly easy fix, drill out spot welds, replace with new pressed part from BMW (£20 each).
Jacking points are the main problem and are often ignored. Paint cracks and the rust creeps. Have needed to patch both the front ones on mine which is a fairly easy job. The rear ones had rusted through the bottom of the sill, rusted the jacking support away, the inner wing and on one side into the boot floor! Sills from a saloon fit from below the door down and are cheap at £40. I used box section to replace the bottom half of the jacking strut, and then had to make the inner wing and bottom panel out of sheet. Pig of a job, really hard, and one side the fuel filler neck goes through it. Inner wings are NLA from BMW (I tried ordering them from Germany and Poland).
They also rust from where the rear 3/4 meets the boot panel (seen as a crease just under the rear tail light). Boot panels are still available from BMW at around £100 each.
Bottom of front wings rust, but easy to take off and replace. Rear arches rust, but this is from the outside in (not inside out) as there is loads of seam sealer on the inside. Just needs wire brushing off, treating, filling and repainting.
To summarise, rear jacking points are the one that will kill it. Same as other E36 I think.
And I would rather have a 100kg weight advantage than the Z axle
E36 compact can be better than others as there seems to be a fair few younger models on X plates etc. Seem to rust in the same places as other E36, such as all four jacking points and the anti roll bar mounts.
Anti roll bar mounts rust because the constant flexing on them breaks the paint and also one edge is exposed which causes it to collect mud. Fairly easy fix, drill out spot welds, replace with new pressed part from BMW (£20 each).
Jacking points are the main problem and are often ignored. Paint cracks and the rust creeps. Have needed to patch both the front ones on mine which is a fairly easy job. The rear ones had rusted through the bottom of the sill, rusted the jacking support away, the inner wing and on one side into the boot floor! Sills from a saloon fit from below the door down and are cheap at £40. I used box section to replace the bottom half of the jacking strut, and then had to make the inner wing and bottom panel out of sheet. Pig of a job, really hard, and one side the fuel filler neck goes through it. Inner wings are NLA from BMW (I tried ordering them from Germany and Poland).
They also rust from where the rear 3/4 meets the boot panel (seen as a crease just under the rear tail light). Boot panels are still available from BMW at around £100 each.
Bottom of front wings rust, but easy to take off and replace. Rear arches rust, but this is from the outside in (not inside out) as there is loads of seam sealer on the inside. Just needs wire brushing off, treating, filling and repainting.
To summarise, rear jacking points are the one that will kill it. Same as other E36 I think.
And I would rather have a 100kg weight advantage than the Z axle
959 said:
It's a bit high to start with - I'd lower it to £100 and that'll get some bids in. It's worth £80 on the weigbridge so anything over that is a bonus.Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff