Looking for an electric impact wrench
Discussion
Hi,
I’m looking for an 1/2 electric impact wrench to make working on my car that little bit easier....so I’m looking for recommendations on what to buy.
I don’t mind if it’s corded or cordless, first job I’ll be doing are rear discs and pads which involves a hub nut which it tightened to 220nm.
Budget isn’t really an issue but I’d like it to come in under £300 if possible. But the cheaper the better!
Thanks in advance...
I’m looking for an 1/2 electric impact wrench to make working on my car that little bit easier....so I’m looking for recommendations on what to buy.
I don’t mind if it’s corded or cordless, first job I’ll be doing are rear discs and pads which involves a hub nut which it tightened to 220nm.
Budget isn’t really an issue but I’d like it to come in under £300 if possible. But the cheaper the better!
Thanks in advance...
i bought this done 2 sets of tyres so far, very good value for 50 quid. Pretty robust too..
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VETOMILE-Electric-Impact-...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VETOMILE-Electric-Impact-...
andybell1979 said:
Hi,
I’m looking for an 1/2 electric impact wrench to make working on my car that little bit easier....so I’m looking for recommendations on what to buy.
I don’t mind if it’s corded or cordless, first job I’ll be doing are rear discs and pads which involves a hub nut which it tightened to 220nm.
Budget isn’t really an issue but I’d like it to come in under £300 if possible. But the cheaper the better!
Thanks in advance...
I use a 430nm kielder battery powered impact wrench. Pretty powerful machine but wouldn’t take off my hub nut torqued up to 220nm. Takes off wheels and pretty much everything else just not a wheel hub nut. https://www.kielder.co/products/18v-cordless-impac...I’m looking for an 1/2 electric impact wrench to make working on my car that little bit easier....so I’m looking for recommendations on what to buy.
I don’t mind if it’s corded or cordless, first job I’ll be doing are rear discs and pads which involves a hub nut which it tightened to 220nm.
Budget isn’t really an issue but I’d like it to come in under £300 if possible. But the cheaper the better!
Thanks in advance...
There is now a 700nm model that has also come out.
I’ve been working on my mates car and using his impact wrench (Dewalt) recently and it literally undoes anything I’ve tried to loosen. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/dewalt-dcf899p2-xr...
If I had the budget I’d deffo get the dewalt.
Thanks, came across this but at 240nm maybe it wouldn’t be suitable.
VonHaus Cordless Impact Wrench with 3.0Ah Li-ion 20V Max Battery, Charger & Power Tool Bag - Includes Direction Control & Variable Speed Trigger (½ Square Drive, 240Nm Torque) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BFF841G/ref=cm_sw_r...
The dewalt looks amazing but it’s a little out of budget.....the vetomile from Amazon seems suitable, someone just replied to my question on there and said they have used it for hub nuts....
VonHaus Cordless Impact Wrench with 3.0Ah Li-ion 20V Max Battery, Charger & Power Tool Bag - Includes Direction Control & Variable Speed Trigger (½ Square Drive, 240Nm Torque) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BFF841G/ref=cm_sw_r...
The dewalt looks amazing but it’s a little out of budget.....the vetomile from Amazon seems suitable, someone just replied to my question on there and said they have used it for hub nuts....
I've got a Clarke CEW1000 electric impact wrench and it's never failed to undo anything...even the super tight crank nut when doing Ford Zetec cam belt changes. It easily removes hub nuts...I have undone many on various makes and never had an issue.
£78 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-CEW1000-Electric-I...
It's a proper heavy duty tool and a good price - you won't be disappointed.
£78 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-CEW1000-Electric-I...
It's a proper heavy duty tool and a good price - you won't be disappointed.
Edited by Dr Doofenshmirtz on Tuesday 2nd October 12:44
I've used one of these to change the rear subframe on an MR2 as well as removing the rear hub.
For £40 I couldn't fault it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XKLYQZW/ref...
For £40 I couldn't fault it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XKLYQZW/ref...
Cheapo corded ones are brilliant, have super-high torque, but I hate the need to drag cords and extension leads everywhere. Occasionally I need to bring out my £60 corded no-name one for big stuff, but the majority of things (screws you just CANNOT undo, rusty bolts - I click the Makita onto "tighten" for a second until I see a little movement, then onto "loosen" and job done.
Try and avoid too many socket set extensions - each joint takes a bit of the "rattle" effect, so less impact makes it to the actual nut/bolt/screw.
Try and avoid too many socket set extensions - each joint takes a bit of the "rattle" effect, so less impact makes it to the actual nut/bolt/screw.
M.J.S said:
I've used one of these to change the rear subframe on an MR2 as well as removing the rear hub.
For £40 I couldn't fault it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XKLYQZW/ref...
I just got one of these and it’s great for £40. Cable could be longer but an extension solves that easily.For £40 I couldn't fault it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XKLYQZW/ref...
Oh, some hub nuts are just NOT undoable. Mate had an old VW camper, needed to undo the hub nut. Tried my Clarke air powered one - it laughed at us. Tried an expensive corded one - it just laughed at us.
It was in an industrial area where the guy services and repairs buses, etc - he brought out his big impact driver, air powered by a compressor about the size of two fridge freezers. It laughed at that.
Then he brought out his 1" gun - it still laughed at that.
He ended up drilling between the nut and shaft, heating it with an oxy torch, and splitting it with a big air hammer and a chisel bit. Took about 2 hours altogether, for a pro with all the tools a man could want!
It was in an industrial area where the guy services and repairs buses, etc - he brought out his big impact driver, air powered by a compressor about the size of two fridge freezers. It laughed at that.
Then he brought out his 1" gun - it still laughed at that.
He ended up drilling between the nut and shaft, heating it with an oxy torch, and splitting it with a big air hammer and a chisel bit. Took about 2 hours altogether, for a pro with all the tools a man could want!
guindilias said:
Oh, some hub nuts are just NOT undoable. Mate had an old VW camper, needed to undo the hub nut. Tried my Clarke air powered one - it laughed at us. Tried an expensive corded one - it just laughed at us.
It was in an industrial area where the guy services and repairs buses, etc - he brought out his big impact driver, air powered by a compressor about the size of two fridge freezers. It laughed at that.
Then he brought out his 1" gun - it still laughed at that.
He ended up drilling between the nut and shaft, heating it with an oxy torch, and splitting it with a big air hammer and a chisel bit. Took about 2 hours altogether, for a pro with all the tools a man could want!
I had the same in an old Alfa- first I tried my 1.5m 3/4" extension bar and couldn't budge it with my whole weight hanging off it, then it defeated the brand new Clarke mains impact driver I bought. It was in an industrial area where the guy services and repairs buses, etc - he brought out his big impact driver, air powered by a compressor about the size of two fridge freezers. It laughed at that.
Then he brought out his 1" gun - it still laughed at that.
He ended up drilling between the nut and shaft, heating it with an oxy torch, and splitting it with a big air hammer and a chisel bit. Took about 2 hours altogether, for a pro with all the tools a man could want!
Ended up buying a new hub and driveshaft off eBay as I couldn't get enough access to cut it.
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