Dip or blast MGB GT shell?
Discussion
My MGB GT is ready for stripping off the rust, paint and filler, what is the current consensus between media blasting or chemical stripping? Here's the old girl for reference.
Also, if anybody has any recommendations or guide costs please let me know. I'm Newcastle based so somebody in the North would be better
Also, if anybody has any recommendations or guide costs please let me know. I'm Newcastle based so somebody in the North would be better
Do not dip.
Blasting will give you a better long term result.
A lot of dipped car owners bitterly regret making that mistake.... the caustic stripping solution gets everywhere (as it's designed to) and creeps, by capillary action, into all panel joins, seams, sandwiched edges etc. The neutraliser doesn't creep because the acid is already filling the void, only neutralising the fluid on the surface. Consequently you end up with caustic solution inside the panel joints that you can't get rid of..... you can guess what happens then - it slowly starts eating away at the metal in the joint from the inside out, eventually erupting at the surface as rust. Many a lovely car has been ruined forever by dipping.
Do your research very carefully before electing to have anything dipped.
A good blasting company will make an infinitely better job of it.
Blasting will give you a better long term result.
A lot of dipped car owners bitterly regret making that mistake.... the caustic stripping solution gets everywhere (as it's designed to) and creeps, by capillary action, into all panel joins, seams, sandwiched edges etc. The neutraliser doesn't creep because the acid is already filling the void, only neutralising the fluid on the surface. Consequently you end up with caustic solution inside the panel joints that you can't get rid of..... you can guess what happens then - it slowly starts eating away at the metal in the joint from the inside out, eventually erupting at the surface as rust. Many a lovely car has been ruined forever by dipping.
Do your research very carefully before electing to have anything dipped.
A good blasting company will make an infinitely better job of it.
This comes up a lot and usually results in a thread full of people who've never had a car dipped telling you how dipping chemicals can get trapped and leach out years later damaging paintwork. You almost never see a post from someone saying "I had my car dipped and then had issues with chemicals leaching out years later".
Ultimately dipping is the better process, especially if you can double-dip (dip for rust removal/weld repairs/return to be dipped in rust preventing coating) as you're treating all the metal, inside and out anywhere the liquid can get to, not just everywhere a man in a chunky suit can get the media blasting nozzle. Also you won't keep finding blasting media all over the place for the next 10 years, something that CAN happen with media blasting.
As the B was never designed to be dipped you'll probably need to drill some new drain holes - though the big traps will probably turn out to be rust rather than metal so have created their own drain holes. Worst case you have to weld some of them up post-dipping but chances are you can just fit rubber bungs and have much better cavity access for Waxoiling.
Ask around for recommendations of companies used to dipping classic cars, then phone a few asking them about their process/what prep. they recommend before you drop the car off/any common issues and what cover they offer if things do go wrong. Also if they can put you in contact with any previous customers. Then make your choice of dip or not and if dip, who to use.
Ultimately dipping is the better process, especially if you can double-dip (dip for rust removal/weld repairs/return to be dipped in rust preventing coating) as you're treating all the metal, inside and out anywhere the liquid can get to, not just everywhere a man in a chunky suit can get the media blasting nozzle. Also you won't keep finding blasting media all over the place for the next 10 years, something that CAN happen with media blasting.
As the B was never designed to be dipped you'll probably need to drill some new drain holes - though the big traps will probably turn out to be rust rather than metal so have created their own drain holes. Worst case you have to weld some of them up post-dipping but chances are you can just fit rubber bungs and have much better cavity access for Waxoiling.
Ask around for recommendations of companies used to dipping classic cars, then phone a few asking them about their process/what prep. they recommend before you drop the car off/any common issues and what cover they offer if things do go wrong. Also if they can put you in contact with any previous customers. Then make your choice of dip or not and if dip, who to use.
I'm in a similar position with my car restoration. I did initially favour the dipping route, as this seemed best for total rust , paint and underseal removal in one easy process and looked to give a kinda clean sheet to work from.
I found several people who have had their car dipped and got a 50/50 mix as to them doing so again. SPL who dip shells seem to have a bit of a rep for careless handling and panels being bashed. One owner fitted a no longer available non sunroof roof skin to his car only for SPL to dent it. Other problems were areas inside the sills and wheel arches trapping air and not being dipped.
One of the guys on Practical Performance Car magazine had an MGB dipped and e-coated years ago and then let it sit as a project he never got around to finishing. I asked him how the shell was fairing and he was quite positive saying although there was a couple of rust spots, it had held up well considering how it was never meant to be left in e-coat for years.
The 50/50 reviews direct from owners I got, along with the fact I'm not sure my car is that bad it needs a dip, plus the fact the cost is so much more for dip and e-coat, have made me favour blasting now.
If you have rust all over the place and inside box sections, then maybe. How bad is the rust ?
I found several people who have had their car dipped and got a 50/50 mix as to them doing so again. SPL who dip shells seem to have a bit of a rep for careless handling and panels being bashed. One owner fitted a no longer available non sunroof roof skin to his car only for SPL to dent it. Other problems were areas inside the sills and wheel arches trapping air and not being dipped.
One of the guys on Practical Performance Car magazine had an MGB dipped and e-coated years ago and then let it sit as a project he never got around to finishing. I asked him how the shell was fairing and he was quite positive saying although there was a couple of rust spots, it had held up well considering how it was never meant to be left in e-coat for years.
The 50/50 reviews direct from owners I got, along with the fact I'm not sure my car is that bad it needs a dip, plus the fact the cost is so much more for dip and e-coat, have made me favour blasting now.
If you have rust all over the place and inside box sections, then maybe. How bad is the rust ?
I have had an MGA dipped and it did get rid of everything but left lots of pin holes where there was obviously rust problems, that was a good thing though as they might have caused problems if not sorted. The coating is a god send though if the restoration takes a little longer than planned - which they all do!
I have also had cars stripped using paint stripper but usually aluminium cars, that works very well as well and a few years on the car still looks very good but you need to get the correct primers.
Not tried blasting yet but it looks like a good idea, I am planning on getting a small soda blaster for small parts but I am not convinced I will get to all the rust in the cills and other areas, I suppose it depends on the value of the car regarding the costs but for a long term project of a fairly rusty car I think I will dip again. The MGA was about £1000 with coating iI think.
I have also had cars stripped using paint stripper but usually aluminium cars, that works very well as well and a few years on the car still looks very good but you need to get the correct primers.
Not tried blasting yet but it looks like a good idea, I am planning on getting a small soda blaster for small parts but I am not convinced I will get to all the rust in the cills and other areas, I suppose it depends on the value of the car regarding the costs but for a long term project of a fairly rusty car I think I will dip again. The MGA was about £1000 with coating iI think.
I’m intrigued by this process. “Bake ‘n Blast”.
http://www.beadshot.co.uk/Page5.htm
It’s handy to me so I’m going to call in at some point and find out about it as my Alfa shell will need doing soon(ish).
I’m fortunate I also have these guys nearby too:
http://www.sodatecblasting.com/index.php
http://www.millarsodablasting.com/index.php?option...
http://www.beadshot.co.uk/Page5.htm
It’s handy to me so I’m going to call in at some point and find out about it as my Alfa shell will need doing soon(ish).
I’m fortunate I also have these guys nearby too:
http://www.sodatecblasting.com/index.php
http://www.millarsodablasting.com/index.php?option...
Just as an update to this thread, the blasted shell arrived back this morning. I'd cut off the lower rear wings as they were being replaced along with the cills, which they were told not to bother blasting. Really pleased with the results and highly recommend Rix Blasting in Washington, Tyne & Wear.
stichill99 said:
That looks an excellent result. Can I ask how much it cost and what media it was blasted with? Cheers
He uses a mixture of different media depending on the metal thickness, nice and gentle. Overall price was £700 for the blasting and primer paint which makes it cheaper than dipping too. 
I had the shell of my Dolomite Sprint dipped in 2004 (or maybe 2005) by SPL, not zinc coated, and it's been stored since in a well ventilated but not entirely waterproof council lockup. The only rust that has come up was on a section of floor where there was a slightly dodgy patch repair over a double skinned section - I think there must have been a small pocket there where the acid managed to collect. Other than that it looks good.
Just had one of my classics thermal stripped by these guys. Superb work.
http://www.paint-strip.co.uk
http://www.paint-strip.co.uk
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