Buying my first car - How to avoid a lemon
Discussion
Hi everyone,
Hope this hasn't been done to death before - but if so please delete.
I am looking to buy my first privately owned car, having since only used company vehicles.
Budget isn't huge at around £5k so would expect to run into a few dodgy motors.
I have read enough around the forum to see some unfortunate buyers get stung, which I can't afford! I want to do my due diligence before buying which I reckon is:
- MOT history check
- HPI check
- Pre-purchase inspection (any recommended?)
Also seem to be leaning towards buying from a dealer, although it seems some of the warranties offered are worthless!
Is there an approved / don't touch dealer list on Piston Heads?
Anything else I should be looking out for?
Thanks for your time guys,
Regards,
Joe
Hope this hasn't been done to death before - but if so please delete.
I am looking to buy my first privately owned car, having since only used company vehicles.
Budget isn't huge at around £5k so would expect to run into a few dodgy motors.
I have read enough around the forum to see some unfortunate buyers get stung, which I can't afford! I want to do my due diligence before buying which I reckon is:
- MOT history check
- HPI check
- Pre-purchase inspection (any recommended?)
Also seem to be leaning towards buying from a dealer, although it seems some of the warranties offered are worthless!
Is there an approved / don't touch dealer list on Piston Heads?
Anything else I should be looking out for?
Thanks for your time guys,
Regards,
Joe
Well I would do this.
1. Get yourself a list of cars that you like and that are both affordable to run and not harsh on the insurance.
2. Find out everything you can about that model of car, recalls, known issues etc.
3. When you are happy and find the car you want to go look at, you are not obliged to buy the first one, you can also use Google to see how good the dealer is from people who have purchased cars from there.
4. Take someone with you who is mechanically minded, this helps because they can check things you can't whilst the car is running.
5. The MOT History Checker is a good tool but its only as good as the last MOT.
6. Don't be picky on colour or specification, if you see a good car that's a lower spec to one you like which is a bit of a dog, go for the one that's decent
7. Don't use all your budget, save say 20% for anything that may need doing to the car (brake discs, tyres etc).
1. Get yourself a list of cars that you like and that are both affordable to run and not harsh on the insurance.
2. Find out everything you can about that model of car, recalls, known issues etc.
3. When you are happy and find the car you want to go look at, you are not obliged to buy the first one, you can also use Google to see how good the dealer is from people who have purchased cars from there.
4. Take someone with you who is mechanically minded, this helps because they can check things you can't whilst the car is running.
5. The MOT History Checker is a good tool but its only as good as the last MOT.
6. Don't be picky on colour or specification, if you see a good car that's a lower spec to one you like which is a bit of a dog, go for the one that's decent
7. Don't use all your budget, save say 20% for anything that may need doing to the car (brake discs, tyres etc).
Edited by tonyb1968 on Sunday 14th October 00:22
tonyb1968 said:
Well I would do this.
1. Get yourself a list of cars that you like and that are both affordable to run and not harsh on the insurance.
2. Find out everything you can about that model of car, recalls, known issues etc.
3. When you are happy and find the car you want to go look at, you are not obliged to buy the first one, you can also use Google to see how good the dealer is from people who have purchased cars from there.
4. Take someone with you who is mechanically minded, this helps because they can check things you can't whilst the car is running.
5. The MOT History Checker is a good tool but its only as good as the last MOT.
6. Don't be picky on colour or specification, if you see a good car that's a lower spec to one you like which is a bit of a dog, go for the one that's decent
7. Don't use all your budget, save say 20% for anything that may need doing to the car (brake discs, tyres etc).
Hi Tony, all good advice taken onboard. Cheers!1. Get yourself a list of cars that you like and that are both affordable to run and not harsh on the insurance.
2. Find out everything you can about that model of car, recalls, known issues etc.
3. When you are happy and find the car you want to go look at, you are not obliged to buy the first one, you can also use Google to see how good the dealer is from people who have purchased cars from there.
4. Take someone with you who is mechanically minded, this helps because they can check things you can't whilst the car is running.
5. The MOT History Checker is a good tool but its only as good as the last MOT.
6. Don't be picky on colour or specification, if you see a good car that's a lower spec to one you like which is a bit of a dog, go for the one that's decent
7. Don't use all your budget, save say 20% for anything that may need doing to the car (brake discs, tyres etc).
Edited by tonyb1968 on Sunday 14th October 00:22
I've always felt there's a lot to be said for buying privately. You get to meet the previous owner and that can be a very good (but of course not foolproof) way of judging whether the car is likely to be OK.
With a £5k budget you might like to look at cars around the £4k mark, perhaps sneaking a bargain at £3,500. That will leave you a bit of a repair fund should something go wrong.
Many on here would suggest Japanese/petrol for reliability and although this car is £4,495 it is the sort of thing I'd be looking at:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
This one looks better still. £3,999 and just 7 years old. Very low miles, full main dealer history, four doors, almost a year's MOT, SatNav and like the other one, low VED. (Car Tax):
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
I do like Toyota, but plenty of other brands to choose from and some experts on here for sure.
With a £5k budget you might like to look at cars around the £4k mark, perhaps sneaking a bargain at £3,500. That will leave you a bit of a repair fund should something go wrong.
Many on here would suggest Japanese/petrol for reliability and although this car is £4,495 it is the sort of thing I'd be looking at:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
This one looks better still. £3,999 and just 7 years old. Very low miles, full main dealer history, four doors, almost a year's MOT, SatNav and like the other one, low VED. (Car Tax):
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
I do like Toyota, but plenty of other brands to choose from and some experts on here for sure.
I’ve bought and sold a fair few cars over the last decade. Some good, some bad.
I’m can’t add much more than what’s been said other than to say try and keep it an emotionless search. If you set your heart on a certain car based on the ad you’ll go and see it looking for reasons to buy it, when the sensible way to buy is to go and see a car looking for reasons not to buy it.
Don’t get set on a certain make or model, keep an objective view on the criteria this car needs to forfill, and view a few different cars before you purchase.
And the obvious PH line... forget age and mileage, buy on condition. I’d rather buy a 10 year old 100k mile car with fsh from a caring owner, than a 5 year old 50k mike car with sketchy history from a dealer.
Following your gut feeling... if you see a car and something bothers you walk away. It’s a buyers market.
I’m can’t add much more than what’s been said other than to say try and keep it an emotionless search. If you set your heart on a certain car based on the ad you’ll go and see it looking for reasons to buy it, when the sensible way to buy is to go and see a car looking for reasons not to buy it.
Don’t get set on a certain make or model, keep an objective view on the criteria this car needs to forfill, and view a few different cars before you purchase.
And the obvious PH line... forget age and mileage, buy on condition. I’d rather buy a 10 year old 100k mile car with fsh from a caring owner, than a 5 year old 50k mike car with sketchy history from a dealer.
Following your gut feeling... if you see a car and something bothers you walk away. It’s a buyers market.
) so you shouldn't have to search too hard for something decent.A few pointers;
You usually have more comeback with a dealer, if the car has serious faults, it's much easier for a private vendor to deny all knowledge of them.
Check why the car is being sold (private sale obviously), people often offload a car when early signs of expensive trouble are on the horizon (noisy DMF) or when a major service is imminent (like the VAG cambelt change which costs £400-500quid).
Always get down on your hands and knees and have a good look under the car, including rust traps and arches, cars still can and do rust.
A full service history is well worth having, indicates a caring owner, ditto decent tyres etc.
You usually have more comeback with a dealer, if the car has serious faults, it's much easier for a private vendor to deny all knowledge of them.
Check why the car is being sold (private sale obviously), people often offload a car when early signs of expensive trouble are on the horizon (noisy DMF) or when a major service is imminent (like the VAG cambelt change which costs £400-500quid).
Always get down on your hands and knees and have a good look under the car, including rust traps and arches, cars still can and do rust.
A full service history is well worth having, indicates a caring owner, ditto decent tyres etc.
5k purchase?
Buy a 4k car privately instead. Then put 1k into your maintenance fund.
You'll get a LOT more for your money private than via a dealer. I know your will get some protection from a dealer but you are still dealing with the bottom of the market. Refunds/warranties/rejections at this level can be very hard work.
Get a mate who knows what he is looking at to help you look at it.
Buy the seller as well as the car. If you get a good vibe from the seller (nice tidy house, lots of paperwork/receipts, happy to have the car tested or inspected, has owned the car a while, answers questions honestly etc etc) then chances are you will get a good car.
Buy a 4k car privately instead. Then put 1k into your maintenance fund.
You'll get a LOT more for your money private than via a dealer. I know your will get some protection from a dealer but you are still dealing with the bottom of the market. Refunds/warranties/rejections at this level can be very hard work.
Get a mate who knows what he is looking at to help you look at it.
Buy the seller as well as the car. If you get a good vibe from the seller (nice tidy house, lots of paperwork/receipts, happy to have the car tested or inspected, has owned the car a while, answers questions honestly etc etc) then chances are you will get a good car.
Hi all, thanks for the replies.
In terms of what car I am looking at I would ideally like an e91 330i touring. However, having looked at lots of listings it appears that 530d's of the same age (around 2006/7) are a good bit cheaper for similar condition and would be happy with one of them.
Criteria is around 100k or less, nice cabin, reasonably quick, estate.
Edit - am not fussed between petrol or diesel, but the petrol non-turbo's have less to go wrong.
In terms of what car I am looking at I would ideally like an e91 330i touring. However, having looked at lots of listings it appears that 530d's of the same age (around 2006/7) are a good bit cheaper for similar condition and would be happy with one of them.
Criteria is around 100k or less, nice cabin, reasonably quick, estate.
Edit - am not fussed between petrol or diesel, but the petrol non-turbo's have less to go wrong.
Older BMWs are charismatic and I've been running them for some years now. They are not very cheap to maintain though, I'd advise finding a good independent garage, rather than paying 2 to 3 times the hourly rate at the main dealers.
The 330i is a nice beast, with (arguably) the best engine BMW made in recent years wrt reliability and cheapness of maintenance. I have a 130i which is a very similar car under the skin, sharing the majority of mechanical bits. If checking the service history of a petrol car, look/ask about the electric water pump and stat. They fail without warning, from about 70,000 miles. This probably the only common fault with the N52 engine, but it's really expensive at around £550, parts and labour...a lot more at the main dealers.
The 3 litre diesel is also a good machine, but it is highly likely to cost you lots more in maintenance and repairs - it will be DPF equipped and it will also have swirl flaps in the intake that are probne to gunging up and snapping off, often destroying the engine.
If you go for a diesel and if you do lots of long runs, the DPF is unlikely to give you any trouble. It would be worth getting the intake manifold cleaned out and the swirl flaps removed, if they are still fitted.
BMW service intervals are a tad infrequent, so don't dismiss a car with lots of service history outside the dealer network. If it's a leggy car with a full BMW service history, IMO it probably has not had as much love as one that's been serviced by the local garage, or a specialist.
BMW say that the gearboxes and diffs don't need the oils changed (odd because the manufacturers of the gearboxes don't share that view!). Consequently, a gearbox and diff oil change is a sensible and cheap precaution. My manual shift has become freer and less notchy/baulky when cold since I changed the oil.
If it's a petrol manual, it should be silky smooth with very little vibration. If there is an engine or drive-line vibration, walk away, or negotiate hard, because it's likely to need a dual mass flywheel/clutch replacement and that'll cost another £1000ish.
If it's an automatic, the gearboxes are tough and relaible, but also benefit from service. They have filters that are generally part of the oil pan, so the components are a tad costly, but it's still a worthwhile thing to do.
Many of them were supplied with runcrap tyres. They ride and grip better if they are fitted with proper tyres (the reason that M cars are not supplied with runcraps...and neither were the M135is etc).
Check the VED rates. The petrol automatic 130i gets the painful tax rate, the manual is half the price - the 3 series may be similar...I don't know.
I'd choose to buy privately.
If I were looking for an estate car with your budget, I think I'd be looking for another Subaru Outback or Legacy 3 litre. We had 2 of them and they were fantastically reliable, quiet, comfortable, sure-footed and quick too. In the last year of BMW ownership, I've spent more on repairs than I did in 10 years on both of the Subarus together.
The 330i is a nice beast, with (arguably) the best engine BMW made in recent years wrt reliability and cheapness of maintenance. I have a 130i which is a very similar car under the skin, sharing the majority of mechanical bits. If checking the service history of a petrol car, look/ask about the electric water pump and stat. They fail without warning, from about 70,000 miles. This probably the only common fault with the N52 engine, but it's really expensive at around £550, parts and labour...a lot more at the main dealers.
The 3 litre diesel is also a good machine, but it is highly likely to cost you lots more in maintenance and repairs - it will be DPF equipped and it will also have swirl flaps in the intake that are probne to gunging up and snapping off, often destroying the engine.
If you go for a diesel and if you do lots of long runs, the DPF is unlikely to give you any trouble. It would be worth getting the intake manifold cleaned out and the swirl flaps removed, if they are still fitted.
BMW service intervals are a tad infrequent, so don't dismiss a car with lots of service history outside the dealer network. If it's a leggy car with a full BMW service history, IMO it probably has not had as much love as one that's been serviced by the local garage, or a specialist.
BMW say that the gearboxes and diffs don't need the oils changed (odd because the manufacturers of the gearboxes don't share that view!). Consequently, a gearbox and diff oil change is a sensible and cheap precaution. My manual shift has become freer and less notchy/baulky when cold since I changed the oil.
If it's a petrol manual, it should be silky smooth with very little vibration. If there is an engine or drive-line vibration, walk away, or negotiate hard, because it's likely to need a dual mass flywheel/clutch replacement and that'll cost another £1000ish.
If it's an automatic, the gearboxes are tough and relaible, but also benefit from service. They have filters that are generally part of the oil pan, so the components are a tad costly, but it's still a worthwhile thing to do.
Many of them were supplied with runcrap tyres. They ride and grip better if they are fitted with proper tyres (the reason that M cars are not supplied with runcraps...and neither were the M135is etc).
Check the VED rates. The petrol automatic 130i gets the painful tax rate, the manual is half the price - the 3 series may be similar...I don't know.
I'd choose to buy privately.
If I were looking for an estate car with your budget, I think I'd be looking for another Subaru Outback or Legacy 3 litre. We had 2 of them and they were fantastically reliable, quiet, comfortable, sure-footed and quick too. In the last year of BMW ownership, I've spent more on repairs than I did in 10 years on both of the Subarus together.
Toed64 said:
Older BMWs are charismatic.........
Hey Toed64, much appreciate the detailed response. I initially dialled in on a 130i, but the intent would be to use it to cart bikes about and the boot (with seats down) seems a bit small.As much as I would enjoy the Subaru's, I don't think the missus would be impressed so will take the plunge with a BMW and see how costly they are. From reading I think if you get a well maintained 330 / 530 in i or d flavour, and look after them, they can hit big miles so am happy as long as they don't cost me much more than a grand a year in maintenance. Do you think this is a reasonable expectation?
All the best,
Joe
Joelonghair said:
Toed64 said:
Older BMWs are charismatic.........
Hey Toed64, much appreciate the detailed response. I initially dialled in on a 130i, but the intent would be to use it to cart bikes about and the boot (with seats down) seems a bit small.As much as I would enjoy the Subaru's, I don't think the missus would be impressed so will take the plunge with a BMW and see how costly they are. From reading I think if you get a well maintained 330 / 530 in i or d flavour, and look after them, they can hit big miles so am happy as long as they don't cost me much more than a grand a year in maintenance. Do you think this is a reasonable expectation?
All the best,
Joe
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-SUBARU-OUTBACK-3-0...
f:0https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Legacy-3-0r-Spec...
f:0Yes, the 130i is a bit too small for bike lugging. There are a few people posting on the Babybmw forum that do so, but it really would be easier with the bigger cars.
I think that for about £5000 BMW, I'd be going for an N52 petrol (not the later N53). You could consider getting the 6 cylinder 3 litre 325i/525i; they are sometimes a bit cheaper. They have the same engine, but have been electronically strangled, so they can be remapped to give the 30i power output without trouble, giving about 50bhp more. If you find a good one, you'll easily get away with under £1000 pa in maintenance bills, so long as you steer clear of the main dealers.
Edited by Toed64 on Monday 15th October 00:32
Hi Toed,
Honestly I would not be averse to either of the two Subaru's you suggested, but would have to be a manual if I went that route.
They don't seem as special as a 5 series Touring, but they are nice enough and the cheaper maintenance would be a boon.
Only issue seems to be 1 or 2 owner E60 estates seem to be easily available, whereas the Subarus seem to have passed through a few more hands and at this price point may have been used as towing / agricultural use?
I don't know - just thinking out loud!
Regards,
Joe
Honestly I would not be averse to either of the two Subaru's you suggested, but would have to be a manual if I went that route.
They don't seem as special as a 5 series Touring, but they are nice enough and the cheaper maintenance would be a boon.
Only issue seems to be 1 or 2 owner E60 estates seem to be easily available, whereas the Subarus seem to have passed through a few more hands and at this price point may have been used as towing / agricultural use?
I don't know - just thinking out loud!
Regards,
Joe
Toed64 said:
I think that for about £5000 BMW, I'd be going for an N52 petrol (not the later N53). You could consider getting the 6 cylinder 3 litre 325i/525i; they are sometimes a bit cheaper. They have the same engine, but have been electronically strangled, so they can be remapped to give the 30i power output without trouble, giving about 50bhp more. If you find a good one, you'll easily get away with under £1000 pa in maintenance bills, so long as you steer clear of the main dealers.
I've had an N52 engine in a Z4 Coupe for over 4 years and it's great. Edited by Toed64 on Monday 15th October 00:32
So when I replaced my E46 325ti earlier this year with something even more practical I bought an 06 plate E91 325i. It also has the N52 engine, but in 2.5 litre format. So an N52 2.5 definitely won't map to give 3 litre outputs.
An N53 engined 325i or 525i might remap to 3 litre outputs because it has a 3 litre engine, but that will be the N53 that you don't want - and I didn't want either! I can happily live without HPFP, injector and coking-up issues.
Hi OP the thing is you need to look past the badge & judge the car from the inside because that's where you'll be sitting, yes you can land some nice Mercedes/Audi's/BMW's etc but they'll be older so may cost you a bit more due to maintenance work.
Diesel wise if you're doing less than 12k a year the diesel may cost you more on maintenance but everything you'd be looking at would be pre DPF so you may be okay but it's something to bare in mind.
Petrol wise here's where I'd be looking:
2.0T Mondeo Titanium X Sport: These are hard to find but are loaded with kit a good steer & swift too
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
2.5 N/A Mazda6 Sport: Good cars not as sweet a steer as the Ford but no less worthy & that 2.5 engine is a peach.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Octavia VRS: Good cars & easier to find than the Ford but if I could find one I'd take the Ford every time.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Seat Exeo Sport: This is a 2008 Audi A4 with new sheet metal front & rear it uses the same drivetrain as the Skoda above so is worth a look.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
2.0T Insignia SRI
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Mercedes are heavy on tax but that means you can haggle hard on the price but they're nigh on bulletproof when it comes to reliability.
C230 Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
C280 Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Avantgarde SE
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
E280 Avantgarde
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
BMW wise you'll want a 25i as a minimum:
5251 Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
325i Sport/SE
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
330i M Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
A4 S Line/ S Line Special Edition
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Diesel wise if you're doing less than 12k a year the diesel may cost you more on maintenance but everything you'd be looking at would be pre DPF so you may be okay but it's something to bare in mind.
Petrol wise here's where I'd be looking:
2.0T Mondeo Titanium X Sport: These are hard to find but are loaded with kit a good steer & swift too
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
2.5 N/A Mazda6 Sport: Good cars not as sweet a steer as the Ford but no less worthy & that 2.5 engine is a peach.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Octavia VRS: Good cars & easier to find than the Ford but if I could find one I'd take the Ford every time.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Seat Exeo Sport: This is a 2008 Audi A4 with new sheet metal front & rear it uses the same drivetrain as the Skoda above so is worth a look.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
2.0T Insignia SRI
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Mercedes are heavy on tax but that means you can haggle hard on the price but they're nigh on bulletproof when it comes to reliability.
C230 Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
C280 Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Avantgarde SE
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
E280 Avantgarde
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
BMW wise you'll want a 25i as a minimum:
5251 Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
325i Sport/SE
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
330i M Sport
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
A4 S Line/ S Line Special Edition
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
Do you have a local independent marque specialist near you? Either to buy from, or if they don't deal then to recommend.
I was very nervous when I was thinking of buying an M5, so I chatted to the local servicing specialist abut them - he put in in touch with one of his customers who was thinking of selling - "you won't go wrong buying that one, any minor niggles and he gets me to sort it, cost no issue".
Don't get too stressed about a bargain. Get a good one. If you pay a few hundred over the odds, that is very little on the extra you will pay over the next couple of years in repairs if you buy poorly.
I was very nervous when I was thinking of buying an M5, so I chatted to the local servicing specialist abut them - he put in in touch with one of his customers who was thinking of selling - "you won't go wrong buying that one, any minor niggles and he gets me to sort it, cost no issue".
Don't get too stressed about a bargain. Get a good one. If you pay a few hundred over the odds, that is very little on the extra you will pay over the next couple of years in repairs if you buy poorly.
Mr Tidy said:
Toed64 said:
I think that for about £5000 BMW, I'd be going for an N52 petrol (not the later N53). You could consider getting the 6 cylinder 3 litre 325i/525i; they are sometimes a bit cheaper. They have the same engine, but have been electronically strangled, so they can be remapped to give the 30i power output without trouble, giving about 50bhp more...
I've had an N52 engine in a Z4 Coupe for over 4 years and it's great. Edited by Toed64 on Monday 15th October 00:32
So when I replaced my E46 325ti earlier this year with something even more practical I bought an 06 plate E91 325i. It also has the N52 engine, but in 2.5 litre format. So an N52 2.5 definitely won't map to give 3 litre outputs.
An N53 engined 325i or 525i might remap to 3 litre outputs because it has a 3 litre engine, but that will be the N53 that you don't want - and I didn't want either! I can happily live without HPFP, injector and coking-up issues.
'The earlier E91 N52 325i (Pre-LCI) was actually a 2.5 litre engine. It wasn't until the Post LCI model came out they used a detuned 3.0 litre in the 325i.'
The 130i and 125i both have the N52 3litre motor and the 125i was turned down by about 50bhp. The N53 engine was not fitted to 1 series BMWs. By flashing a map similar to the 130i, you can get 130i power output...
Did the 325i only get the N53B30 3 litre when the N52B25 was replaced? Were they not equipped with the N52B30 3 litre?
Edited by Toed64 on Monday 15th October 12:16
Hey everyone, thank you all for taking the time to respond to my thread - it is really useful and has given me some things to think about.
ZX10R NIN - really appreciate the effort you take with your recommendations. I have had a look at a lot of the choices, and head says you are correct with a Mondeo estate, especially the 2.5t, but heart says I want a naturally aspirated 3L BMW!
I'm pretty much decided on a 3L straight six M52 or M54, preferably manual. Given diesel is not going to work, I am looking at E91 tourings, but also considering a 130i with a roof box. Might have to up the budget a grand or so, but think I would be much happier this way than settling for a Vauxhall or Mazda - call me conceited if you like! But I have had these mid-range cars as company vehicles and would like a change.
ZX10R NIN - really appreciate the effort you take with your recommendations. I have had a look at a lot of the choices, and head says you are correct with a Mondeo estate, especially the 2.5t, but heart says I want a naturally aspirated 3L BMW!
I'm pretty much decided on a 3L straight six M52 or M54, preferably manual. Given diesel is not going to work, I am looking at E91 tourings, but also considering a 130i with a roof box. Might have to up the budget a grand or so, but think I would be much happier this way than settling for a Vauxhall or Mazda - call me conceited if you like! But I have had these mid-range cars as company vehicles and would like a change.
Gassing Station | Car Buying | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff