Manifold replacement
Discussion
Finally got around to removing the nearside manifold last night to try and locate the 'ticking' noise that had been giving me some grief for a while.
The nice people at Hexham HC suggested that it was either manifold gasket, or manifold and not the cam as i feared. They suggested removing the manifold and checking for leaks by filling it with water!
Well after an hour of scrapped knuckles, the manifold was off and filled with water...... and yes, water came out of the central joint where all four brances meet before the pre-cat. One of those 'never get a weld in there' areas.
Question is now:-
Replace with new TVR manifold
Replace with pair of de-cat stainless manifolds, or
Replace with second-hand original.
Before spending a day on the phone, have any fellow PH'ers been in the same situation, and what are the likely costs?
Thanks
Paul
The nice people at Hexham HC suggested that it was either manifold gasket, or manifold and not the cam as i feared. They suggested removing the manifold and checking for leaks by filling it with water!
Well after an hour of scrapped knuckles, the manifold was off and filled with water...... and yes, water came out of the central joint where all four brances meet before the pre-cat. One of those 'never get a weld in there' areas.
Question is now:-
Replace with new TVR manifold
Replace with pair of de-cat stainless manifolds, or
Replace with second-hand original.
Before spending a day on the phone, have any fellow PH'ers been in the same situation, and what are the likely costs?
Thanks
Paul
Although for a pre-cat Griff, changed my leaking manifolds and Y piece for ACT SS units. The absolute business - both sound and looks. Prices are on the ACT site.
www.actproducts.co.uk
www.actproducts.co.uk
The Surveyor said:
Podie
I have seen the classified advert and it appears that he had exactly the same problem as me. Not much merit in replaceing one holed nearside manifold with another. May be a common weakness?
Thanks for the responce anyway
Paul
Sorry, hadn't read the ad... just spotted it briefly.
I've had mine replaced with ACT stainless De-cats, these look far better than the originals and cost for a pair is only slightly higher than for a single TVR std replacement.
If you only do one then chances are the other will go in a while anyway so I reckon it makes sense to replace both at the same time.
If you only do one then chances are the other will go in a while anyway so I reckon it makes sense to replace both at the same time.
Thanks everyone, but have gone the cowards route... Have purchased a used original from ACT with cat still in place.
Looking at this as a short-term solution and it means i don't need to disturb the offside manifold. Only ever planned on keeping this Chimaera for 12 months or so, but if that ends up being longer, will go with the stainless de-catted manifolds.
Looking at this as a short-term solution and it means i don't need to disturb the offside manifold. Only ever planned on keeping this Chimaera for 12 months or so, but if that ends up being longer, will go with the stainless de-catted manifolds.
GreenV8S said:
You can get to the 4-into-1 weld by cutting the collector off and then welding them up from the inside, finally weld the collector back on. Depending what state they're in, this may be throwing good money after bad, but if they're generally in decent nick it's worth considering.
Bit late into this one as usual but : Just done this job myself, see thread: EXHAUST MANIFOLD LEAK . Can supply details / pics if needed. (completely successful repair)
My replacement manifold has just arrived in the post.
Big thank you to Tim at ACT for the quick turn arround
, and once i have swapped the Lamda Sensor thing over, i will try and get it fitted tonight. May get it finished in time for a run over to the Barbon Hill climb in lovely Kirkby Lonsdale on Saturday.
Can anybody confirm the socket size for the Lamda Sensor (i think its 17mm?). I shall buy a budget box spanner to fit this but just wanted to check the size
A bit late to post this time, but I had the same problem with a leak from between the 4 pipes by the pre cat, I put some good quality exhaust repair paste in to an empty mastic tube, and with a small length of flexy tube attatched to the end , managed to force the putty in between the pipes to fill the hole.This was only done as a temporary solution but it is still holding strong 2 years later. I have since managed to buy a complete system with both manifilds, cats, y piece and stainless system on Ebay, but I wont bother fitting until if or when the repair fails.
I actually located the original leak by simply using a piece of tube, one end against my ear while routing the other end around the manifold with the engine ticking over, which became obvious whe it came into contact with the hole.
I actually located the original leak by simply using a piece of tube, one end against my ear while routing the other end around the manifold with the engine ticking over, which became obvious whe it came into contact with the hole.
another temporary repair that lasted longer than intended:
stuff the gap between the four pipes with fine glass fibre tissue or wool - keep ramming it in and then wire or compound it in place. Very effective. If you use the pre-coated fibre-glass it may smoke and stink a bit at first as the coating burns off - don't panic!!
stuff the gap between the four pipes with fine glass fibre tissue or wool - keep ramming it in and then wire or compound it in place. Very effective. If you use the pre-coated fibre-glass it may smoke and stink a bit at first as the coating burns off - don't panic!!
Fitted the replacement manifold last night and all went reasonable well with the exception of alligning up the front v clamp joint, and i still can't get the lambda sensor out of the old manifold.
Going to have to buy a new deep socket, and either de-pin the plug and thread the leads through, or cut a slot in it!!
Can't wait to see if it's cured the ticking noise!
Going to have to buy a new deep socket, and either de-pin the plug and thread the leads through, or cut a slot in it!!
Can't wait to see if it's cured the ticking noise!
Quite a few people I've spoken to have had to modify their socket in this way (cutting a slot) so I think that may be your only option.
The ticking from mine before replacement was awful, almost sounded like a clockwork car. The difference when it was returned with the new manifolds was unbelievable. Actually sounded like a proper car.
The ticking from mine before replacement was awful, almost sounded like a clockwork car. The difference when it was returned with the new manifolds was unbelievable. Actually sounded like a proper car.
If you cut a slot in the socket you may find that it will splay and offer no purchase, especially if you buy a cheap item to b*****dize for the purpose (been there, done that). It also means that you've now got a knackered tool.
Go the de-pin route, it aint difficult: you'll need a watchmakers or small instrument screwdriver to prize back the pin retainers. I guess you've now got the old manifold on a work bench, or similar, so access is not an issue. Just take your time and when it comes to the unscrewing, ensure the manifold is held secure and the socket is kept 'square' to prevent creasing the body of the probe: they aint that robust! Knacker that and a new one's likely to cost what you just paid for your manifold.
Hope all goes good
Go the de-pin route, it aint difficult: you'll need a watchmakers or small instrument screwdriver to prize back the pin retainers. I guess you've now got the old manifold on a work bench, or similar, so access is not an issue. Just take your time and when it comes to the unscrewing, ensure the manifold is held secure and the socket is kept 'square' to prevent creasing the body of the probe: they aint that robust! Knacker that and a new one's likely to cost what you just paid for your manifold.
Hope all goes good
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