Megane clutch bleeding
Discussion
2005 megane 225 2.0 turbo, i can't for the life of me get this clutch bled! Im losing the will to live here, genuinely losing the plot!
Fitted a new gearbox to it, also new clutch and flywheel while i was in there.
Clutch pedal is literally 2 inches off the deck, hours of bleeding and it' s still bloody there!
The genuine service manual says open the bleeder down at the gearbox and pump the pedal until no more bubbles come out then close the bleeder, that went well, and bleeds one part of the system.
Then you have to put pedal down once, keep it there, open bleeder, then close it, then lift pedal back up, then repeat until you're physically sick and want to cry.
This seems to go ok, fluid in reservoir is now going down quicker so air must be shifting??
Yet there is absolutely no change in the pedal at all??
Would it be worth physically pulling up the clutch pedal by hand as far as possible, then holding it down while bleeding, is the fact the clutch pedal isn't getting forced up to the top of it's travel during the bleeding stopping me getting anywhere? Thanks.
If there's anyone local to me can help failing advice on here that would be great, few beer tokens in it for you, im in Leven in Scotland. Just follow the swearing and you'll find me!
Fitted a new gearbox to it, also new clutch and flywheel while i was in there.
Clutch pedal is literally 2 inches off the deck, hours of bleeding and it' s still bloody there!
The genuine service manual says open the bleeder down at the gearbox and pump the pedal until no more bubbles come out then close the bleeder, that went well, and bleeds one part of the system.
Then you have to put pedal down once, keep it there, open bleeder, then close it, then lift pedal back up, then repeat until you're physically sick and want to cry.
This seems to go ok, fluid in reservoir is now going down quicker so air must be shifting??
Yet there is absolutely no change in the pedal at all??
Would it be worth physically pulling up the clutch pedal by hand as far as possible, then holding it down while bleeding, is the fact the clutch pedal isn't getting forced up to the top of it's travel during the bleeding stopping me getting anywhere? Thanks.
If there's anyone local to me can help failing advice on here that would be great, few beer tokens in it for you, im in Leven in Scotland. Just follow the swearing and you'll find me!
Just tried an odd thing i just read online. He said to push pedal down slow then release quick, keep repeating this(not while bleeding) and clutch pedal is now feeling firm and the pedal is sitting a fair bit higher!
Now that it's like this a little more bleeding might finish it off! Should the clutch pedal be lower in height anyway with a new clutch, from what it was before?
Now that it's like this a little more bleeding might finish it off! Should the clutch pedal be lower in height anyway with a new clutch, from what it was before?
Megane clutch is a bit of a t
t.
1) You'll definitely need to physically bring the pedal to the top of it's travel to bleed it. Our technique is with 2 people. 1st person on the clutch opens the bleed valve. Shouts 'down' Pedal man presses all the way down. Clutch man closes the bleed valve, and shouts up. Pedal man brings the clutch to the top of it's travel. It's easier to tie a rope to the pedal, rather than try and pick it up by hand.
2) Sometimes that just doesn't work. In which case, get a syringe, fill with 50ml of fluid, and open the bleed valve. Inject into the bleed valve. Close the valve, and try bleeding again. (as above).
It's a little easier to have a long pipe of silicon, and pipe it directly back into the master cylinder reservoir, but if you're doing it with a jam jar, make sure the jam jar is higher than the bleed nipple.
I feel your pain.
t. 1) You'll definitely need to physically bring the pedal to the top of it's travel to bleed it. Our technique is with 2 people. 1st person on the clutch opens the bleed valve. Shouts 'down' Pedal man presses all the way down. Clutch man closes the bleed valve, and shouts up. Pedal man brings the clutch to the top of it's travel. It's easier to tie a rope to the pedal, rather than try and pick it up by hand.
2) Sometimes that just doesn't work. In which case, get a syringe, fill with 50ml of fluid, and open the bleed valve. Inject into the bleed valve. Close the valve, and try bleeding again. (as above).
It's a little easier to have a long pipe of silicon, and pipe it directly back into the master cylinder reservoir, but if you're doing it with a jam jar, make sure the jam jar is higher than the bleed nipple.
I feel your pain.
First half of what you said is what i've been ding, but with a 'pedal misses' :-) Good tip with the rope, i'll get her hauling on that tomorrow.
Makes sense too to have jar higher to keep air going up, i have a syringe kicking about too, think i'll get there eventually.
Thing that's been making it a pain is that bloody clip you push down when opening the bleeder, works once every dozen times, pain in the ass, then it broke, new one presses right in, then won't come back out, aaahhhh!!
Makes sense too to have jar higher to keep air going up, i have a syringe kicking about too, think i'll get there eventually.
Thing that's been making it a pain is that bloody clip you push down when opening the bleeder, works once every dozen times, pain in the ass, then it broke, new one presses right in, then won't come back out, aaahhhh!!
robbocop33 said:
Makes sense too to have jar higher to keep air going up,
I've never bled the clutch on that vehicle but the technique which usually works for me is to connect a long clear hose from the bleed nipple up to somewhere that can be seen from the driver's seat. This puts a slight positive pressure on the bleed nipple which prevents air from being sucked in, and usually I can just leave the nipple open and pump the pedal to bleed it. I've never needed to pull the pedal back up so I don't know whether that puts the system under suction - if so, you might still need to open and close the nipple, but you could give this a try first.Don't really know what to make of this, tried everything suggested and nothing changing.
I'm honestly starting to think car's ok? Odd thing is when i'm bleeding it it's air free, but pedal is absolutely crap, 2 inches of the floor and not much feel in that small travel.
But, if i then go in the car, push pedal slow down by hand, and pull up quick a dozen or so times i get a pedal??Try bleeding again i then lose all pedal feel down to 2 inches again??
Clutch pedal feel on this car was always one of the firmest i've ever driven, and once i've got a good pedal it stays up, about an inch below the brake pedal height.
I've tried the clutch and it's literally 'falling' into gears smooth as hell, which it never really has. Think i'll just stick the sub frame etc back on and try it as is.
I'm honestly starting to think car's ok? Odd thing is when i'm bleeding it it's air free, but pedal is absolutely crap, 2 inches of the floor and not much feel in that small travel.
But, if i then go in the car, push pedal slow down by hand, and pull up quick a dozen or so times i get a pedal??Try bleeding again i then lose all pedal feel down to 2 inches again??
Clutch pedal feel on this car was always one of the firmest i've ever driven, and once i've got a good pedal it stays up, about an inch below the brake pedal height.
I've tried the clutch and it's literally 'falling' into gears smooth as hell, which it never really has. Think i'll just stick the sub frame etc back on and try it as is.
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