Leaking Radiator?
Discussion
I've recently discovered a leak, mid-nearside under the nose of my Chimaera. The liquid appears to be water, and is presumably coolant from the Radiator or maybe coming from a loosely connected rad hose, but it is very difficult to get in there to examine.
The drip is noticeably coming from a tiny hole (0.5 cm) in the nose unit.
Can anyone offer advice as to how to diagnose, likely problems and how to fix without it costing an arm and a leg!
Thanks.
The drip is noticeably coming from a tiny hole (0.5 cm) in the nose unit.
Can anyone offer advice as to how to diagnose, likely problems and how to fix without it costing an arm and a leg!
Thanks.
Had the same thing with the Griffith ... probably bottom hose rather than radiator. I took mine out anyway and had it tested, no problem.
You can normally see evidence of a radiator leaking by looking for crystalised coolant particles, or rust forming. Check along the seams and corners particularly.
With silicone hoses you can get clips that work loose and they do need fairly regular checking after intitial installation until they settle down.
You could also try Steve Heath's gadget below .... worked for me finding leaks.
www.tvrextras.co.uk/
You can normally see evidence of a radiator leaking by looking for crystalised coolant particles, or rust forming. Check along the seams and corners particularly.
With silicone hoses you can get clips that work loose and they do need fairly regular checking after intitial installation until they settle down.
You could also try Steve Heath's gadget below .... worked for me finding leaks.
www.tvrextras.co.uk/
I recently had something very similar. I thought it was the rad too, but fortunately it turned out to be a loose clip and a perished fabric O-ring.
Johno's suggestion of investing in a 'pressuriser' is a very good one, as it should allow you to trace the source of the leak without danger of scalding etc...
Hope you get it sorted
Johno's suggestion of investing in a 'pressuriser' is a very good one, as it should allow you to trace the source of the leak without danger of scalding etc...
Hope you get it sorted
Should be able to take cap pressure, certainly. Wouldn't necessarily expect it to take enough pressure to blow a hose, so if (a) your cooling system was being overpressurized (dreaded HGF?
) and (b) your pressure cap was failing to release the pressure you could conceivably blow the radiator. Or perhaps it's just a manufacturing fault.
) and (b) your pressure cap was failing to release the pressure you could conceivably blow the radiator. Or perhaps it's just a manufacturing fault.Just ring the factory , my griff was in for a service and they replaced it as a matter of course, the price was a surprise , the original ones don't last long , look at the stone chips the nose picks up well you can imagine the rad getting peppered.~Saying that its the headers that usually fail , they start to weep.
ring the people
steve
ring the people
steve
tgriff said:
Just ring the factory , my griff was in for a service and they replaced it as a matter of course, the price was a surprise , the original ones don't last long , look at the stone chips the nose picks up well you can imagine the rad getting peppered.~Saying that its the headers that usually fail , they start to weep.
ring the people
steve
I don't mean this to sound patronising or dubious, but are you sure the factory is supplying Ally rads for the Griffith for £170 ?!?!?!?
If so there will be a queue from Monday ...
Johno,no, thursday ! Is it the "Russian" alloy ? i will give my dosh in the morn as i have liitle faith at the mo.
quote=johno]
I don't mean this to sound patronising or dubious, but are you sure the factory is supplying Ally rads for the Griffith for £170 ?!?!?!?
If so there will be a queue from Monday ...[/quote]
quote=johno]
tgriff said:
Just ring the factory , my griff was in for a service and they replaced it as a matter of course, the price was a surprise , the original ones don't last long , look at the stone chips the nose picks up well you can imagine the rad getting peppered.~Saying that its the headers that usually fail , they start to weep.
ring the people
steve
I don't mean this to sound patronising or dubious, but are you sure the factory is supplying Ally rads for the Griffith for £170 ?!?!?!?
If so there will be a queue from Monday ...[/quote]
The factory ally rad is simply an ally rad that is the same size as the original. Similar cooling capacity from wjat I have seen. The headers are plastic and the core ally. Very similar to loads of rads used in many cars today BTW. I would not necessarily describe it as a big rad though.
As for rad pressure, they should be able to take more than the cooling system/cap. When I sorted out the Griffs recent leaks, I pressure tested the rad after I had repaired it while it was still out of the car with the CoolTester and it was holding 60 psi with no problems.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 12th May 06:17
As for rad pressure, they should be able to take more than the cooling system/cap. When I sorted out the Griffs recent leaks, I pressure tested the rad after I had repaired it while it was still out of the car with the CoolTester and it was holding 60 psi with no problems.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 12th May 06:17
tgriff, all i said was if that was true the queue would start thursday, not monday, all these quotes are very confusing. I really like my "bigger rad" just not happy about all the problems and this time i will not wait 5 weeks for a replacement of a faulty rad.
>> Edited by david beer on Friday 13th May 06:03
>> Edited by david beer on Friday 13th May 06:03
julestvr said:
I've recently discovered a leak, mid-nearside under the nose of my Chimaera. The liquid appears to be water, and is presumably coolant from the Radiator or maybe coming from a loosely connected rad hose, but it is very difficult to get in there to examine.
The drip is noticeably coming from a tiny hole (0.5 cm) in the nose unit.
Can anyone offer advice as to how to diagnose, likely problems and how to fix without it costing an arm and a leg!
Thanks.
Don't worry it may just need a drop of solder around one of the joints. My rad was leaking and I got it repaired for £20. There were a few microscopic holes around one of the connectors.
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