DIY brake pipes
Discussion
Couple of questions if I may:
1. Is it entirely reasonable and feasible to make up your own copper brake pipes yourself, if you have the right kit, and:
2. If the answer to Q1 is Yes, is a kit like this any good?
Almost seems too cheap to be true, and obv I don't want to be taking any chances with brakes. I guess that leads on to, if the answer to Q1 is Yes, and the answer to Q2 is no, what should I be looking for instead?
1. Is it entirely reasonable and feasible to make up your own copper brake pipes yourself, if you have the right kit, and:
2. If the answer to Q1 is Yes, is a kit like this any good?
Almost seems too cheap to be true, and obv I don't want to be taking any chances with brakes. I guess that leads on to, if the answer to Q1 is Yes, and the answer to Q2 is no, what should I be looking for instead?
Yes it is perfectly possible to make your own brake pipes, although I haven't done it for years. Used to make up pipes for Morris Minors and MG's often enough back in the day.
You need a good pipecutter and particularly a good solid flaring tool. Mine is an old Sykes Picavant. Weighs plenty but does a good job.
There is a knack to making a good flare that takes practice though. You will need to do a few dummy runs to get it right. If in doubt, do another one.
Always used to use Kunifer 10 copper nickel pipe. Better bursting pressure than pure copper which can be a bit marginal.
That kit doesn't look the greatest quality. You want proper individual split dies rather than that rather ropey looking wing nut and bar affair.
The right tools make the job, esp with a safety critical system like brakes.
Check v carefully for leaks at all unions before and after a test drive once done.
Good luck!
You need a good pipecutter and particularly a good solid flaring tool. Mine is an old Sykes Picavant. Weighs plenty but does a good job.
There is a knack to making a good flare that takes practice though. You will need to do a few dummy runs to get it right. If in doubt, do another one.
Always used to use Kunifer 10 copper nickel pipe. Better bursting pressure than pure copper which can be a bit marginal.
That kit doesn't look the greatest quality. You want proper individual split dies rather than that rather ropey looking wing nut and bar affair.
The right tools make the job, esp with a safety critical system like brakes.
Check v carefully for leaks at all unions before and after a test drive once done.
Good luck!
Yes, it's fine to make your own brake pipes. As some have said, the pure copper pipes are prob not the best, and the Knifer copper is better.
I've always used this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-FLARING-TOOL...
It hods the brake pipe better than the one you have highlighted, and will do steel pipe on the car if required. Overall a much better tool.
I've always used this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-FLARING-TOOL...
It hods the brake pipe better than the one you have highlighted, and will do steel pipe on the car if required. Overall a much better tool.
Thanks for the advice.
Does the pipe cut OK with a small version of those plumber's tools which you sin around and gradually tighten? I have a small version of one of those already.
Looking around there are Draper kits for £20-25, may be a better bet than that one in my OP, but it's not obvious whether those ones do a bubble flare as well, so I need to hunt further I think.
Does the pipe cut OK with a small version of those plumber's tools which you sin around and gradually tighten? I have a small version of one of those already.
Looking around there are Draper kits for £20-25, may be a better bet than that one in my OP, but it's not obvious whether those ones do a bubble flare as well, so I need to hunt further I think.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-FLARING-TOOL...
f:0
this is the best tool thats affordable...always sell well used if you wont need it again
f:0this is the best tool thats affordable...always sell well used if you wont need it again
I get what people say about copper but I have used it on every pipe I have ever made on some pretty fast & heavily braked track cars & never seen an issue.
My own preference is for the hand held Sykes Pickavant tool.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pickavant-Flarema...f:0
It was a LOT cheaper when I bought mine.
My own preference is for the hand held Sykes Pickavant tool.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pickavant-Flarema...
f:0It was a LOT cheaper when I bought mine.
I've got one of those tools that Bearman and Steve have linked to. Mine is called a "powerhand", despite it sounding like an elabourate w
king machine its sole purpose is making flares, and tight spaces if needs be! I've got the metric DIN version.
As most have said use copper-nickel or cupro or kunnifer (all the same thing just different names) pipe opposed to plain copper, more durable and safer and with a decent flaring tool, as above, is no bother to flare.
Rules of brake pipe making.
1, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
2, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
3, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
4, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
5, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........
king machine its sole purpose is making flares, and tight spaces if needs be! I've got the metric DIN version.As most have said use copper-nickel or cupro or kunnifer (all the same thing just different names) pipe opposed to plain copper, more durable and safer and with a decent flaring tool, as above, is no bother to flare.
Rules of brake pipe making.
1, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
2, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
3, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
4, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
5, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........
colin_p said:
Rules of brake pipe making.
1, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
2, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
3, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
4, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
5, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........
Am I correct in assuming that method statement was written after a particularly difficult pipe in a REALLY awkward position forgot to put its nut on first?1, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
2, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
3, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
4, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
5, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........
colin_p said:
I've got one of those tools that Bearman and Steve have linked to. Mine is called a "powerhand", despite it sounding like an elabourate wking machine its sole purpose is making flares, and tight spaces if needs be! I've got the metric DIN version.
As most have said use copper-nickel or cupro or kunnifer (all the same thing just different names) pipe opposed to plain copper, more durable and safer and with a decent flaring tool, as above, is no bother to flare.
Rules of brake pipe making.
1, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
2, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
3, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
4, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
5, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........
king machine its sole purpose is making flares, and tight spaces if needs be! I've got the metric DIN version.As most have said use copper-nickel or cupro or kunnifer (all the same thing just different names) pipe opposed to plain copper, more durable and safer and with a decent flaring tool, as above, is no bother to flare.
Rules of brake pipe making.
1, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
2, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
3, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
4, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare.
5, Thread the fitting onto the pipe and make sure it is the right way round before forming the flare........
this, so many times this. Kunifer is theoretically better, but it is harder to get the flares right, so swings and roundabouts. Its fine to do yourself op, but expect to have to redo a couple as you will likely make a mistake or two.
Yes, I've had the odd mishap.
Re-plumbed a MK4 Golf with 5m coil of copper nickel, including partly dropping the fuel tank to run one of the rear lines. Used the "powerhand" tool with no bother at all. Except putting a fitting on the wtong way round! Luckily I'd used a nice lazy bend and there was enough to cut off and re-make it.
In the past though on various sheds, I'd measure the pipe I needed with a bit of string and or took the old one off to the motor factors near me who'd cheaply make up a pipe to suit. They were copper. Having done the research and reading up, I wouldn't use plain copper pipes again. The cost difference between a roll of copper and a roll of copper nickel is very small.
Re-plumbed a MK4 Golf with 5m coil of copper nickel, including partly dropping the fuel tank to run one of the rear lines. Used the "powerhand" tool with no bother at all. Except putting a fitting on the wtong way round! Luckily I'd used a nice lazy bend and there was enough to cut off and re-make it.
In the past though on various sheds, I'd measure the pipe I needed with a bit of string and or took the old one off to the motor factors near me who'd cheaply make up a pipe to suit. They were copper. Having done the research and reading up, I wouldn't use plain copper pipes again. The cost difference between a roll of copper and a roll of copper nickel is very small.
CAPP0 said:
Does the pipe cut OK with a small version of those plumber's tools which you sin around and gradually tighten? I have a small version of one of those already.
.
The link in your OP shows a pipe cutter in the kit (the red thing), so you don't need another. Everything in the kit except pipe and fittings..
https://www.beal.org.uk/
is fair priced for the kunifer and pipe ends
you wont stuggle at all to flare it with the tool i linked to , and bending is as easy as forming it around a large socket or jam jar by hand , all very simple dont be talked out of using kunifer /cupro
is fair priced for the kunifer and pipe ends
you wont stuggle at all to flare it with the tool i linked to , and bending is as easy as forming it around a large socket or jam jar by hand , all very simple dont be talked out of using kunifer /cupro
It's actually illegal in various countries to use copper for brake pipes... cunifer all the way.
I also use one of these 'power hand' type kits. Should have bought one years ago rather than struggle with one of the crappy scissor clamp types in the OP!
Makes light work on Cunifer and I've even re-flared OE steel pipes with it no bother.
Only thing to look out for is to get the right version, there's a metric/DIN one and an imperial one.
edit: btw I think the metric/DIN one doesn't come with a die for female flares, only bubble flares. Mine didn't anyway. The other end of the die is used as a depth setting tool.
I also use one of these 'power hand' type kits. Should have bought one years ago rather than struggle with one of the crappy scissor clamp types in the OP!
Makes light work on Cunifer and I've even re-flared OE steel pipes with it no bother.
Only thing to look out for is to get the right version, there's a metric/DIN one and an imperial one.
edit: btw I think the metric/DIN one doesn't come with a die for female flares, only bubble flares. Mine didn't anyway. The other end of the die is used as a depth setting tool.
Edited by Nealio on Monday 19th November 12:58
That original linked kit = no.
The others (bearman, the SP kit) etc = yes.
You "can" make a decent flare on the kit in the original link, but IMVHO it's a lot more hit and miss - which aint what you want on brakes!!
Whereas the other ones are a safe "hit" every time - although all take a little learning to finesse a "perfect" flare.
The others (bearman, the SP kit) etc = yes.
You "can" make a decent flare on the kit in the original link, but IMVHO it's a lot more hit and miss - which aint what you want on brakes!!
Whereas the other ones are a safe "hit" every time - although all take a little learning to finesse a "perfect" flare.
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